'71 xs1b conversion to cafe

I also want to replace both rims, and all spokes. Is it okay to just cut up the spokes using a sawzall to liberate both hubs?

Also I seem to recall that 5twin had acquired a set of new rims from an Italian distributor- been trying to find out where he talks about this, anyone remember?
 
Take pictures before you cut the hub free. Then u have a reference . Took me three hours to do my first re-spoke, but 45 million nutes on the second.
 
Spent a blissful afternoon working on the bike and got a lot done- was a warm 60 degree day. The motor is almost ready to turn upside down for the case split.

Removed the pressure and clutch plates and push rod, and was stunned to see two balls tumble out- I don't think this is correct. The clutch diagram in the xs1b service manual shows only one 5/16" ball. (#16)

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Anyone have a clutch holding tool by any chance?

Also removed what I could of the alternator- waiting for the rotor puller, put my name in the floating tool section.

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Took off the drive sprocket- going to replace it.

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Also spent some time on the frame, removed both wheels, and swing arm- ready for detabbing and sandblasting:

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Some questions regarding the swingarm- I assume there is nothing to remove from inside the swingarm holes in the frame? Just clean out the grease in prepping for sandblasting/powdercoating?

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Also when removing the swingarm, one of the bushing slid out easily but the other one is pretty stuck- how do you remove the distance collar and swing bushing?

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Hi DQG,
big post, adding some comments:-
Good that you wait for the correct rotor puller. Using a 3-jaw puller sells lots of replacement rotors.
Replace front & rear sprockets & chain as a set, they'll last a lot longer that way.
Think about upgrading the frame head races to tapered rollers, they are ~5X stronger than the 1890's style ball & groove stock bearings.
The swingarm pivot is a prime example of a designer having a bad day.
The #5, #4, #5 parts stackup in the early swingarms and the single full length bearing sleeve that later replaced them are supposed to be locked solid in the frame by the tension in the #2 pivot shaft with the swingarm's sideplay controlled by the #7 shim.
The actual bearing movement is supposed to be between the central locked solid parts stackup and the #4 swingarm bushings.
What happens over time is that the pivot shaft loses it's grip, the central stackup starts moving with the swingarm, the bearing movement moves to the less precise fit between
the pivot shaft and the inner diameters of the parts stackup and the bike handles funny.
Those stuck parts should just slide out. If they don't a drift and a BFH will shift them.
The #4 bushings in the swingarm should be a heavy push fit. They still the stock plastic bushings? (or were they plastic on the early bikes?) if they are plastic, assemble a hacksaw with it's blade going through both bushings and carefully cut a slot through them down to the metal. Dismantle the saw and then use it to cut through the bearing flange.
Now they'll tap out real easy.
 
...2m, what do you think of my finding two balls in the pushrod shaft? Any thoughts on that?

For the 1-piece pushrod setup, there's one ball between the pushrod and mushroom shaped rod at the clutch end. There's another ball inside the clutch actuating worm, sometimes falls out if its retaining peens are worn enough...
 

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Took apart both wheels after taking pics, and took apart front brake drum- pretty gnarly. Brake shoes fell apart as soon as I took off the brake shoe plate.

Wonder if I should powerwash everything before even thinking about popping out the washers/bearings?

Or at least find a way to get all that dirt and grime out before getting at the rest of it?

drum1.jpg drum2.jpg
 
Hi Fred, thanks for your post, will respond to it when I get back to the swingarm.

Hi DQG,
whenever, eh? Seems you got time to add to your shopping list:-
M16 threaded end swingarm pivot shaft.
(the end snaps off the stock M14-ended one)
Later model full length swingarm bearing sleeve.
Bronze swingarm bushing kit.
M6 tap & grease fitting to install in the middle of the swingarm crosstube.
(Look at the convoluted path that grease has to take to get from the ends of the pivot shaft to the outside of the bearing sleeve.)
 
This what you're talking about, 2M?

Yep, that's it.

Make a note of the numbers embossed on those front brake shoes. If you find any replacements, make sure they match. Looking at your pic, if you flip one shoe over, they look just like single-leading-shoe rear brake shoes. I've seen some listings trying to pass off cheap rear shoes as the expensive fronts, by flipping one over. Being able to see and check the embossed number is the tip-off...
 
Also I seem to recall that 5twin had acquired a set of new rims from an Italian distributor- been trying to find out where he talks about this, anyone remember?

Watch who you call 5twin, He gets kind of testy about that!

I might be biased, but I like it. ride report coming, soon.....
 

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Watch who you call 5twin, He gets kind of testy about that!

I might be biased, but I like it. ride report coming, soon.....

Oops..thanks Gary..

I'm a little worried about the front drum and what rim it'll fit in- seems to me that that sort of rim is going to be hard to find. I haven't parted with mine, yet.
 
Yep, that's it.

Make a note of the numbers embossed on those front brake shoes. If you find any replacements, make sure they match. Looking at your pic, if you flip one shoe over, they look just like single-leading-shoe rear brake shoes. I've seen some listings trying to pass off cheap rear shoes as the expensive fronts, by flipping one over. Being able to see and check the embossed number is the tip-off...

These numbers make any sense?

front.jpg rear.jpg

The one on the left is from the front drum- there's an "R" on it, hopefully doesn't mean rear.
 
Okay, good, you found the numbers. Save this parts snippet for future reference:

70-71-FrontBrakeShoes.jpg

Now, for entertainment, or anguish, google "yamaha 256-25130-00" and view 'images'.
Closely examine the subtle variations being passed off as XS1-XS1B Front Brake Shoes.
Also, note that there's a new part number published for these shoes.

Gotta be observant and vigilant when dealing with these early parts...
 
Sorry, that just went over my head. I don't know what to look for as far as numbers.

I'm just going to get a complete NOS set off ebay. How can I ensure I'm getting front brake shoes and not the back?
 
FYI why buy OLD brake shoes

Mikes XS

XS1 Front Brake Shoes Set
XS1 Front Brake Shoes Set Photo XS1 Front Brake Shoes Set.

High quality made exclusively for Mikes XS.
Part #29-6502 $29.00 USD Set/2

29-6502.jpg
 
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