Could a washer destroy a bike?

There is a gear select adjustment that may or may not be an answer, fuggled first gear engagement dogs while not common, do happen. (inside the cases on transmission gears)
the adjuster is seen at the bottom of this pic.
Right_Side_Engine_Reduced_zpsd3cb63d6.jpg


here's the procedure from the manual.
gear-slector-jpg.8049

The mechanics of the mechanism have the throw to first gear needing the longest movement of the shift lever so any problems tend to show up there first. many things can add up to poor first gear engagement, sloppy worn teeth on the shift lever/shift shaft connection is a favorite.
 
AussiXS, That was only about the starter gear fix and only because you were already that far(engine cover and clutch assembly off) into the fix.
Nothing to do with your shifting problems.
 
Using gggGary's first pic in post #101, I'd start with the trans in neutral (as shown), then simultaneously rotate the shiftdrum CCW while slowly rolling the rear wheel. First gear engagement should be initially felt after no less than about 10°-15° of shiftdrum rotation. Full rotation into 1st will be about 36° of shiftdrum rotation. Delayed engagement would indicate a bent shift fork...
 
Video sure looks "normal". Great production values by the way. :bike:
Hate to say it, but 2many's comment about a bent shift fork... prolly looking at a trip inside.
Inside the tranny from the bottom, crankshaft is out of view at top of pic.

GearPairs.jpg
 
As gggGary posted, the gear shifting in your video looks ok.

The key item relative to your 1st gear question is revealed near the end of the video. It's when you do the final shift from neutral to first gear. The shiftdrum rotates about 15°-20°, then stops, because the 4th slider's dogs hit the 1st gear. You then rotate the mainshaft, allowing the dogs to clear and enter the 1st gear slots, and the shiftdrum continues another 15°-20°, completing the shift to first.

In gggGary's pic, above, this would be the gear marked '4' sliding into the gear marked '1'.

This would be normal.

If the shiftdrum had rotated more before dog interference, then only rotated a few degrees to complete the engagement, THAT would be a clear sign of a bent shiftfork.

The next step would be to feel that midway engagement zone, to determine the degree of dog/corner rounding. Unfortunately, I don't know how to explain that.

Edit: One thing you could check while the cover's off, is the condition of the countershaft 1st gear. In gggGary's pic, above, this would be the gear marked '1'. The kickstart gear slides over to engage that countershaft 1st gear during kickstart. You should be able to peek into the case opening where those two gears engage, and check the condition of the gearteeth, see if any are bent/busted/missing...
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the help guys but ill be honest with you, I'm struggling here!! I buy this XS so I can do a few cosmetic bits, make it look sexy so I can tear up the streets of Sydney, now I'm taking apart a whole engine! When I have gone that far, I may as well replace all the bearings, hardware, seals, washers and do a proper rebuild.

Sweeeeeeeeet Jesus, where do I start?
 
After a good ole chat with Michaelo, the helpful Aussie on my side of the world. We have come to the conclusion that all in my bike is well and that it was most likely just the worm gear. I am to assemble and test before I tear down.

I have put everything back together in its correct place, I plug the battery in and everything lights up, I put my headlight on and no more lights, it all turns off. :(. The fuses haven't blown and the battery is fully charged. So I'll tackle that and let you guys know how it goes.
 
that's a weird one .... sounds like a relay to me but I am totally guessing !
....or a wire missing in the headlight bucket .....
Bob.......
 
After a good ole chat with Michaelo, the helpful Aussie on my side of the world. We have come to the conclusion that all in my bike is well and that it was most likely just the worm gear. I am to assemble and test before I tear down.
.

I may be alone in thinking this but I am not an advocate of suddenly switching from open thread discussion to private messaging part way through trying to solve an issue......Many members have given a lot of their time, experience and expertise to this thread in trying to resolve various issues and now we don't know what led to the conclusion or what was discussed .

These threads are not just help for the original poster, they are a historical resource for many other owners for decades to come who arrive at this thread looking for help with a similar issue. its really important to complete a long running thread like this so that the final diagnosis and solution/s are given at the end

Having said that I'm really pleased that you now have the bike running and you're really fortunate to have a friendly and helpful compatriot to consult and message.
 
You make a fair point Peanut..............doesn't apply in this case.

I have been following this thread closely.......2m made the observation after AussieXS posted a pic, when the correction was made and the Clutch re-assembled the problem had been corrected. ..............Opie was distressed because he thought he was going to have to strip the engine.................A Pm and private phone call helped to alleviate such anxiety and all is as well as.................. AussieXs has posted the conclusion of the problem and what the problem had been..................he has now posted another problem..............
.
Nothing sinister here.............All information has been posted...........
 
it's OK Peanut ! I think he needed to talk to someone..... keyboards lack allot in comunications after all ....it's Kool
....
Bob.......
 
Back
Top