New-b first thread and build

Did not use those. Did the best I can to line them up then tac them in place. It came out really good I am very happy with it.

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Been busy with work and going on vacation.. But now I am working diligently on it again. These are the knee indents I pounded in with a tear drop auto body mallet

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Fork lowers powdercoated the Harley vtwin Orange (color scheme of bike). Also installed new fork seals

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Wheels with new spokes from mikes xs. Hubs powdercoated cream, wheels vtwin Orange

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Cleaned up welds using die grinder and some bondo over the joints. Didn't come out too good but oh well, just a backyard build. Took me about 6 gors to do all the sanding and bondo work and still didn't come out as I planned. Swingarm is primed and ready for paint. Frame wil be gloss black as well as swingarm. Tank and seat/ fiberglass tail piece will be cream with vtwin Orange stripe down middle and Orange pinstriping around knee indents. Let me know all your opinions on it so far what you like/don't like, tips on things I could've done better. Thanks! Also I ordered some scotch bright pads for my die grinder. Going to try this out on the engine to clean it up, excited for this part! I still have to fabricate frame more. I want to clean up the "bulky-ness" of where the foot pegs were on the frame. Not a fan of how yamaha did that. Plan is to cut it up and clean it up a little. Also going to weld a couple brackets on each side for rearsets then the frame will be ready to get cleaned, primed, and painted!

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Anyone out there still following this build??? It is rolling now, the swingarm was finished and powdercoated wet black, I machined a custom spacer for the rear wheel to line the sprockets up better. Here are pics , if anyone is still out there please reply tell me what you think:):)
 

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That is all for now, more to come this weekend when I finish frame modifications. Thinking about changing the rear of the frame, might go for more of a subframe look? Who knows, just going to start visioning it when I make some cuts. More pics to come this weekend!
 
Thanks guys! I have a question about the engine, does the cam chain have a master link I can remove to get the chain off? Can I replace the cam chain by just taking the whole top end off or do I have to break into the bottom end?
 
No master link, remove by sliding the bearings off of cam ends this drops the cam enough that you can get the chain off the sprocket. You have to split the bottom end to replace the chain unless you buy a chain with a master link. They are available either way.

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-26.html#products
I highly recommend a new front chain guide, use the genuine Yamaha item.
 
Hi everyone. Been putting a lot of time into this build, I don't know if you guys realize it but this took ALOT of work. As you can see rear of frame was bent into the neck and meshed to look like it was supposed to be that way. Also made a completely detachable subframe with heim joints as the lower mounts to adjust angle of the seat (to be honest I just thought they looked cool :) ) any questions let me know guys!
 

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Doesn't line up perfect but oh well good enough :) more to come guys stay tuned and tell me what you think!
 

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Hi Ferk,
Yeah, Heim joints are great.
Here's two on a sidecar rig I built:-

Picture004.jpg


See how the Heim joints can move as the bike's lean out gets adjusted.
Both diagonal struts have a right-hand threaded fork at the top and a left-hand threaded fork at the bottom so you simply slacken the locking nuts and twirl the struts to change the lean-out.
 
Lots of work done to be sure. Everything will probably be fine..... but these old eyes have a couple of concerns. Sorry but what I think is that you need a second set of local eyes on your welding and "structural engineering". Weld bead should not look "stuck on top" of a joint. The cross member that transfers the swing arm loads to the bottom of the shock looks a bit "light". A few other areas may need some more thought also. When you put a load bearing bolt through a tube you need to drill large and weld in a sleeve, so the load can transfer to the "thin" tube and not collapse or oval it. Love your enthusiasm and vision, just some old guy caution so you think a bit about what you have there.
 
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