This is the 2nd in a series on how to replace engine seals. This will outline the process of replacing the clutch push rod seal, probably THE most common oil leak on the Xs650.
There are several methods for removing the seals. Today I am going to drill a 1/16” hole through the seal and run a small sheet metal screw into the seal ( which has a metal ring that goes around it, and that’s what your drilling into. If you drill right into the lettering, it’ll put you right in the sweet spot on that seal. Keep your work area clean and free of metal shavings as you go.
This one would not pull out easily by hand, like the shifter seal did, so this is how I did it.
The case opening for this seal has a sharp machined edge to it that needs to be relieved or else it will cut the edge of the seal going in. For that job I used my deburring tool. Available online or at your hardware store.
Here is a rather shaky ( sorry ) video of that tool in use.
There is a spot on the left side of the case opening that is too close to get to with the deburring tool , for that I used a Dremel with a small stone grinding wheel. Some folks do the whole job with a Dremel.
Here is how it looks when done. You don’t have to go crazy on it, just put a slight bevel on that formerly sharp edge.
Make sure the case opening is clean and free of any metal shavings and no sealant residue on the edges.
The last clutch push rod seal I replaced I put a thin smear of sealant on the outside of the seal and you could certainly do that. However this time I will be using only silicone on the outer edges, my belief is that this small seal ( and the shifter seal) are not under much load. Such as the crank seal which has a large shaft spinning at high rpm. These seals have small shafts, making small movements in them, so I’m not using sealant. They still need to be driven into place, as they are a tight fit. Last one I did, I used a deep socket as a driver, this time just my contoured wood dowel to work around the edges, it gives me a much better feel for what’s going on and a clearer view to keep it going in straight.
The seal is back in now and wiped clean.
Next I cleaned the push rod up, gave it a liberal coating of oil and slid it back into place.
This seal is now done!
Next up in the series.....THE BIG GUYS , the drive shaft and the crankshaft seals.
There are several methods for removing the seals. Today I am going to drill a 1/16” hole through the seal and run a small sheet metal screw into the seal ( which has a metal ring that goes around it, and that’s what your drilling into. If you drill right into the lettering, it’ll put you right in the sweet spot on that seal. Keep your work area clean and free of metal shavings as you go.
This one would not pull out easily by hand, like the shifter seal did, so this is how I did it.
The case opening for this seal has a sharp machined edge to it that needs to be relieved or else it will cut the edge of the seal going in. For that job I used my deburring tool. Available online or at your hardware store.
Here is a rather shaky ( sorry ) video of that tool in use.
There is a spot on the left side of the case opening that is too close to get to with the deburring tool , for that I used a Dremel with a small stone grinding wheel. Some folks do the whole job with a Dremel.
Here is how it looks when done. You don’t have to go crazy on it, just put a slight bevel on that formerly sharp edge.
Make sure the case opening is clean and free of any metal shavings and no sealant residue on the edges.
The last clutch push rod seal I replaced I put a thin smear of sealant on the outside of the seal and you could certainly do that. However this time I will be using only silicone on the outer edges, my belief is that this small seal ( and the shifter seal) are not under much load. Such as the crank seal which has a large shaft spinning at high rpm. These seals have small shafts, making small movements in them, so I’m not using sealant. They still need to be driven into place, as they are a tight fit. Last one I did, I used a deep socket as a driver, this time just my contoured wood dowel to work around the edges, it gives me a much better feel for what’s going on and a clearer view to keep it going in straight.
The seal is back in now and wiped clean.
Next I cleaned the push rod up, gave it a liberal coating of oil and slid it back into place.
This seal is now done!
Next up in the series.....THE BIG GUYS , the drive shaft and the crankshaft seals.