Have you done the head stud retorque yet? If not it's time.......
You must not have been paying attention lately Gary.....
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Have you done the head stud retorque yet? If not it's time.......
A note of caution here... when you pull the last cap, the forks will collapse. It's gonna "really" want to roll forward and off the main stand...so there’s no point in taking the forks off the bike.
Wooooaahhh! Good lookin out Jim! Thanks for the heads up. Are you saying that I basically DO need to take them out of the trees or is there a procedure you recomend? I have jack stands that I could rest underneath the engine guard, if nothing else.A note of caution here... when you pull the last cap, the forks will collapse. It's gonna "really" want to roll forward and off the main stand...
That would work.I have jack stands that I could rest underneath the engine guard, if nothing else.
I don't see why not.Can I drain/fill each fork seperately to avoid the front end “collapse”? Open the left drain hole, pump the front end until nothing comes out, replace drain hole screw, remove top fork cap, add 6.5 oz oil, replace cap, repeat other side?
THAT is a grand idea.I like to tape a $20 bill under the seat, it has come in handy a couple of times.
tim
Oh just jack it up and pull the tubes. Trust me it's the simplest way. hint the forks are pressurized enough that removing the drain screw will "lubricate" a wide area. Are you sure the seals aren't leaking? Leaky seals on bikes this old is near 100% Don't attempt to remove the caps until you first loosen the top pinch bolts, the bolts squeeze the tubes enough to jam the cap threads.Can I drain/fill each fork seperately to avoid the front end “collapse”? Open the left drain hole, pump the front end until nothing comes out, replace drain hole screw, remove top fork cap, add 6.5 oz oil, replace cap, repeat other side?
Oh just jack it up and pull the tubes. Trust me it's the simplest way. hint the forks are pressurized enough that removing the drain screw will "lubricate" a wide area. Are you sure the seals aren't leaking? Leaky seals on bikes this old is near 100% Don't attempt to remove the caps until you first loosen the top pinch bolts, the bolts squeeze the tubes enough to jam the cap threads.
You might want to do this also.
So support the front of engine til the front wheel is off the ground
remove fender. speedo drive and brake caliper.
loosen axle
do the "are my forks bent?" per video.
now remove the wheel and remove fork tubes drain pump out refill.
Really? do the full monte, replace the seals.
PS: you need a build thread LOL
PS: you need a build thread LOL
Okay, okay, I see this is NOT just a simple 20 minute drain and fill operation. I do have new seals, retaining clips, and dust Boots sitting in the tool box waiting for installation, but the home-made tools that require welding and grinding are what’s got me hung up. You may be right about the build thread.... Aside from an engine rebuild, charging system and the swing arm bushings (NextOh just jack it up and pull the tubes. Trust me it's the simplest way. hint the forks are pressurized enough that removing the drain screw will "lubricate" a wide area. Are you sure the seals aren't leaking? Leaky seals on bikes this old is near 100% Don't attempt to remove the caps until you first loosen the top pinch bolts, the bolts squeeze the tubes enough to jam the cap threads.
You might want to do this also.
So support the front of engine til the front wheel is off the ground
remove fender. speedo drive and brake caliper.
loosen axle
do the "are my forks bent?" per video.
now remove the wheel and remove fork tubes drain pump out refill.
Really? do the full monte, replace the seals.
PS: you need a build thread LOL