1973 Super Rustbucket Resurrection

The RustBucket's master cylinder was stuck. The rebuild kits cost too much, and I can't wait for the kit to arrive. And I don't have time to re-build it. And, I think I once read about there being more than one piston configuration, so not sure which rebuild kit to buy.

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Decisions. Which of these to use. Cheap Chinese master, or re-pop master?

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Original RustBucket master and the re-pop. Initially I was going to use the re-pop, but there is too much retrofitting required to get the original brake switch to work:
A recess (red arrow) would have to be drilled to allow the brake switch's flange (green arrow) to fit.
An additional hole (white arrow) would have to be added for the brake switch's alignment pin (pink arrow).
The roll pin from the RustBucket's broken lever (blue arrow) would have to be transferred to a hole drilled into the new lever.
Too much work for this bike. (It later dawned on me that I could use a banjo bolt brake light switch instead of the stock switch, but I had committed to the cheap Chinese master cylinder by then. And, I'd like to save the repop for a nicer bike.)

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While on this subject, the lever pivot on the RustBucket was rigged up with these two bolts, one coming in from the top, the other from the bottom.

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Both were screwed about half way into the lever's threaded brass bushing. Actually, a pretty clever solution.

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This is the correct bolt. It screws fully into the threaded bushing, and has smaller threads on the end for a nut to hold the brake light switch on. Readily available for about $5 shipped on eBay.

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But, I used this master cylinder. No muss, no fuss.
They are so cheap, and so indispensable in an emergency, that I always keep one of these masters on hand. Here's the current cheapest link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262581136299
I've probably used about a dozen. They used to be as cheap as $10, but you had to wait for shipping from China. Now, the price has skyrocketed to $15.39, but they ship from the U.S. That's about 1/4 the cost of the stock master cylinder rebuild kits. Mikes XS sells what appears to be the exact same Chinese master cylinder for $84.

I re-built the caliper back in post #49. Used a seal kit from the U.K., and re-used the pitted pistons after re-conditioning them some. So far, everything is good. Brake works great, and no leaks at the caliper. So far...
 
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Nope, jus' an ol' wives tale.
pretty sharp old wife. take the same piece of chrome and sand a patch on it with an sos pad, and you'll be able to tell the difference. not as bad as a steel brush disguised as brass though
 
pretty sharp old wife. take the same piece of chrome and sand a patch on it with an sos pad, and you'll be able to tell the difference. not as bad as a steel brush disguised as brass though
Every piece of old chrome on my bike was worked over with SOS or Brillo pads. They're as shiny as the news stuff.... no sign of a matte finish as you claimed. Like I tole' Gary, don't take my word for it, or any ol' wives for that matter... give it a go.
 
Idk about the green scotchbrite, but the red sure mattes it down real fast.
Red scotchbrite on a die grinder will remove the chrome... or so a buddy told me, I'd never try that.... no sir.... :rolleyes:
 
I used to braze and solder copper about 1500 times a day. We cut strips of red scotch brite to "scratch" the parts basically looked like cleaned copper over the entire part. We had blue roloc disks on a die grinder to grind any brazing dribbles.
 
Every piece of old chrome on my bike was worked over with SOS or Brillo pads. They're as shiny as the news stuff.... no sign of a matte finish as you claimed. Like I tole' Gary, don't take my word for it, or any ol' wives for that matter... give it a go.
actually i have done it, and never knew it was an old wive's tale :) why you got different results, i don't know. different chrome, diff lube, diff pressure, diff pattern diff duration, dunno
 
The RustBucket's master cylinder was stuck. The rebuild kits cost too much, and I can't wait for the kit to arrive. And I don't have time to re-build it. And, I think I once read about there being more than one piston configuration, so not sure which rebuild kit to buy.

View attachment 193791
Decisions. Which of these to use. Cheap Chinese master, or re-pop master?

View attachment 193792
Original RustBucket master and the re-pop. Initially I was going to use the re-pop, but there is too much retrofitting required to get the original brake switch to work:
A recess (red arrow) would have to be drilled to allow the brake switch's flange (green arrow) to fit.
An additional hole (white arrow) would have to be added for the brake switch's alignment pin (pink arrow).
The roll pin from the RustBucket's broken lever (blue arrow) would have to be transferred to a hole drilled into the new lever.
Too much work for this bike. (It later dawned on me that I could use a banjo bolt brake light switch instead of the stock switch, but I had committed to the cheap Chinese master cylinder by then. And, I'd like to save the repop for a nicer bike.)

View attachment 193793
While on this subject, the lever pivot on the RustBucket was rigged up with these two bolts, one coming in from the top, the other from the bottom.

View attachment 193794
Both were screwed about half way into the lever's threaded brass bushing. Actually, a pretty clever solution.
I used the repop master on my XS2 it takes a little bit of work. About 2 hours if all all you have is a drill press. I did cheat and used my original lever so I didn't have to modify the one that came with the MC.

View attachment 193795
This is the correct bolt. It screws fully into the threaded bushing, and has smaller threads on the end for a nut to hold the brake light switch on. Readily available for about $5 shipped on eBay.

View attachment 193796
But, I used this master cylinder. No muss, no fuss.
They are so cheap, and so indispensable in an emergency, that I always keep one of these masters on hand. Here's the current cheapest link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262581136299
I've probably used about a dozen. They used to be as cheap as $10, but you had to wait for shipping from China. Now, the price has skyrocketed to $15.39, but they ship from the U.S. That's about 1/4 the cost of the stock master cylinder rebuild kits. Mikes XS sells what appears to be the exact same Chinese master cylinder for $84.

I re-built the caliper back in post #49. Used a seal kit from the U.K., and re-used the pitted pistons after re-conditioning them some. So far, everything is good. Brake works great, and no leaks at the caliper. So far...
 
The RustBucket is still on a total loss system, with nothing electrical working other than the Pamco ignition. Time to address this.

DSC01591.jpg

I was getting poor and erratic resistance readings from the handlebar OFF/RUN switch, so I took it a part and cleaned it.
The other switch that I think is really important is the ignition (key) switch. It ohmed out pretty good, so I didn't do anything to it.
A smart electrical engineer once told me that just about every switch and connection on a bike is self-cleaning. I used to try to clean up bullet and spade connectors, the ones in the white nylon connector blocks, but I've found that this is totally unneccessary. The act of sliding these connectors and bullets together cleans them, making good connections. The same is true of the switches that have sliding contacts, like the lights, HI/LO, and turn signal switches. I connected the ignition and OFF/RUN switch, and powered the bike up. The lights, HI/LO switch, and turn signal switches were all very wonky at first, but after repeated use, they all started working well, and now they work great. No need for dissasembly and cleaning.

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The original two-pin flasher relay was a little crushed, and didn't work. I replaced it with a later-year three pin flasher.
The RustBucket came without a horn, so I gave it one.
All of the tiny gauge indicator and illumination bulbs needed replacing. Also replaced the high beam indicator light in the headlight shell.
That's about it. Everything works now. Other than a couple of wrong wires in the headlight shell, the wiring on the RustBucket was/is remarkably sound and unmolested.

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I have always unthinkingly replaced the stock mechanical regulators and rectifiers with solid state. Did the rectifier.
But when I was about to replace the regulator, I thought "why am I doing this?" So, I didn't.

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The stator and rotor both ohmed out good. Nice, long brushes on the stator.
Mounted an old $2 voltmeter on the top triple. Was going to be temporary, but I like it, so it's staying. Charging system is good.
All systems on the RustBucket are now a go. Bike is completely roadworthy. Ready to ride it to the East Side Classic show to win my Best Rat Bike trophy.
 
I've been trying to tell this story chronologically, and I think I am finally caught up. Onward to the East Side Classic motorcycle show, which was last Sunday, Father's Day.

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The Super RustBucket did not win Best Rat Bike. This Norton won. If you are like me, you are probably thinking ???????
Not to be a whiny loser, but really:
No concept, no imagination, not even interesting. IMO, any of the other Rat Bike entrants would have been a better choice.
So, why do I think the least deserving bike won? Because this year's judge is a known huge Euro bike fan. He never saw anything beyond the big "Norton" emblem on the case cover. He also chose a Euro bike for Best in Show, a Vincent.

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The winner with his trophy. (There is only one winner in each category, no second or third places.)
I pulled up right after he did, which is why the RustBucket is parked next to his. He had just finished filling out his entry card in the European category. He didn't even know that there was a Rat Bike category until he talked to me, and then he changed his card.
 
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I've been trying to tell this story chronologically, and I think I am finally caught up. Onward to the East Side Classic motorcycle show, which was last Sunday, Father's Day.

View attachment 193898
The Super RustBucket did not win Best Rat Bike. This Norton won. If you are like me, you are probably thinking ???????
Not to be a whiny loser, but really:
No concept, no imagination, not even interesting. IMO, any of the other Rat Bike entrants would have been a better choice.
So, why do I think the least deserving bike won? Because this year's judge is a known huge Euro bike fan. He never saw anything beyond the big "Norton" emblem on the case cover. He also chose a Euro bike for Best in Show, a Vincent.

View attachment 193899
The winner with his trophy. (There is only one winner in each category, no second or third places.)
I pulled up right after he did, which is why the RustBucket is parked next to his. He had just finished filling out his entry card in the European category. He didn't even know that there was a Rat Bike category until he talked to me, and then he changed his card.
Booo! :hellno:
 
Well, since this adventure's in the books.... better get busy on the -1B tank. That next up on your list?
Still no rush on that tank. I still have a couple of loose ends to tie up on the RustBucket. The biggest is that I stole the carb on it from my other XS650 runner. So, today I'm rebuilding another carb for my 1976.

Don't tell anyone, I'm trying to keep this under my hat, but the next project is a 1973 RD350. YES! I scored it a few months ago, and it has good compression and spark. It's going to be another zero-cosmetics resurrection that I'm calling RustBucket Too. Rusty, but way nicer than the Super RustBucket. Can't wait to zip around on it.
But, let's not talk about it here, I'll start a new thread for it.
 
Don't tell anyone, I'm trying to keep this under my hat, but the next project is a 1973 RD350.
Your secret is safe with us!
The judge bias thing, along with my generally sloppy ways, why I don't enter shows.
With a no show, a VJMC rep tried really hard to get me to assist in judging at a show. Tempted but I just wouldn't do it.
Judge not lest ye be judged. LOL
 
I've been trying to tell this story chronologically, and I think I am finally caught up. Onward to the East Side Classic motorcycle show, which was last Sunday, Father's Day.

View attachment 193898
The Super RustBucket did not win Best Rat Bike. This Norton won. If you are like me, you are probably thinking ???????
Not to be a whiny loser, but really:
No concept, no imagination, not even interesting. IMO, any of the other Rat Bike entrants would have been a better choice.
So, why do I think the least deserving bike won? Because this year's judge is a known huge Euro bike fan. He never saw anything beyond the big "Norton" emblem on the case cover. He also chose a Euro bike for Best in Show, a Vincent.

View attachment 193899
The winner with his trophy. (There is only one winner in each category, no second or third places.)
I pulled up right after he did, which is why the RustBucket is parked next to his. He had just finished filling out his entry card in the European category. He didn't even know that there was a Rat Bike category until he talked to me, and then he changed his card.

Hi 'Bunny,
you shoulda swapped out that nice gas tank for linked 'Cola bottles, eh?
It's difficult NOT to get "best in show" if you enter a Vincent.
Which AIN'T a EuroBike.
BMWs, Guzzis, Laverdas etc are Eurobikes.
Vincents, like Nortons, are Britbikes.
 
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