Whenever I decide to ride, I subtract 20* from the daily temp and decide if I want to ride in that weather. Typically, if it's below 50*, I don't ride, but there's always exceptions.@2BallCane I just replaced the battery in my Buzzy with this one from AutoZone:
The lowest temperature here so far has been 30*F this fall and it started the bike. Buzzy has other carburetor issues but the battery is good thus far.
My experience with Lithium batteries in my bikes is all negative. I had the 710 LCA battery for my Rocket III and the battery was crap below 40*F (just like it says on the label). So in other words, useless for year round riders. And if my memory serves me, Maine can get quite chilly in winter.
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'79 XS650 Build project.
I'll have to look into that. 3/4 throttle would be ok for 80mph. On my 250, getting to 60 is where I have to stretch the gears and hammer it full throttle. So I don't want that, I want it to comfortably do 60-80mph
So after mounting my Evo handlebars, I've decided to keep the stock rubber bungs in the triple tree. The new handlebar mounts tighten them right up and they don't flex like they used to. The mounts use nylon nuts, so I'm thinking I'll put some blue loctite on them later when doing the electrical.
This bike was never intended to be a high speed interstate cruiser. The vertical twin engine design is just no good for that, it vibrates too much. It's happiest, "in it's element" so to speak, running up and down through the RPM range in like the 40 to maybe 70 MPH range. You can gear it up slightly and make it more comfortable at highway speeds, but you won't want to spend hour after hour there, lol. You have to remember you're dealing with about a 50HP bike here. You can gear it up a little but go too much and it won't take it. You'll lose your low speed "umph" and the bike won't pull redline in 5th. Basically, you'll kill the bike's "fun factor", which is it's wonderful midrange power and "lunge" when you grab a handful of throttle in the lower gears.
Got in the new carb diaphragms from jolly old England and installed them both. The one on the left is the new one, the old one right for comparison. I bought from eBay for about $50. The website is carburetordiaphragms.com if anyone is interested. I didn't have to grind anything just stretched them on and tucked them in gently using a butter knife. Maybe took 15 mins.
Edit: after writing this, I forgot to test them, so I headed out and lifted each slide and covered the port to see if the slides would stay up. Good news is that neither one moved at all. When i did this test prior to install, one slide would slowly drop. But now both stay put.
Edit: after writing this, I forgot to test them, so I headed out and lifted each slide and covered the port to see if the slides would stay up. Good news is that neither one moved at all. When i did this test prior to install, one slide would slowly drop. But now both stay put.
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Got the new grips in today, but I haven't decided on how I'm going to go about the throttle grip. I was thinking about getting mirrors that mount to the end on my handlebars, not the ones that slide into the end hole, but the kind that requires three grips to be moved in about 1/2".
So this means I'll have to buy the mirrors before I cut anything, because I can't afford to make the mistake. Also, I wonder if I'll even like the mirror that way, or maybe if like regular screw mount mirrors on the perches.
What do you think?
So this means I'll have to buy the mirrors before I cut anything, because I can't afford to make the mistake. Also, I wonder if I'll even like the mirror that way, or maybe if like regular screw mount mirrors on the perches.
What do you think?
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It’s a clutch interlock switch. It was mandated on later bikes.
There really isn't much available in the way of shorter cables. There is a difference in length between the Standard's and Special's clutch cables but it doesn't amount to much, only an inch or two. Basically, you have to make do with what you've got and solve the issue through careful re-routing. In the stock configuration, the clutch cable is routed down along the left side of the steering neck, the throttle cable down along the right side. With lower bars, you need to flip-flop that, run the clutch cable over and down along the right side of the neck, throttle cable switched over to the left side .....
Update: pulled the wiring harness and all relays. Got a new LED headlight with Integrated turn signals. Just received the rear turn signals/tail/brake light set. Mufflers are coming in next week, and the M-Unit is supposed to be here tomorrow with a Revival cycles wiring harness kit.
I've decided to go with an AGM battery as opposed to a lithium since I live in the Northeast and understand that it requires special attention in cold climate. Also with all the hubub about running a PMA kit with lithium, I decided it would just be safer to go with the AGM. So I'm mounted the R/R and CDI box on the sides of the battery holder with the M-unit on the top. I was going through the switches and realized the handlebars can't act as a ground, so I'll have to run a dedicated ground line to the left and right controls. I've got Titanium wrap coming for the pipes as well, so I'll wrap them after they're painted. I've also got to make a special bracket to mount the coil to the original holes.
I've decided to go with an AGM battery as opposed to a lithium since I live in the Northeast and understand that it requires special attention in cold climate. Also with all the hubub about running a PMA kit with lithium, I decided it would just be safer to go with the AGM. So I'm mounted the R/R and CDI box on the sides of the battery holder with the M-unit on the top. I was going through the switches and realized the handlebars can't act as a ground, so I'll have to run a dedicated ground line to the left and right controls. I've got Titanium wrap coming for the pipes as well, so I'll wrap them after they're painted. I've also got to make a special bracket to mount the coil to the original holes.
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Got the M-unit today, didn't realize how small it really is, plus I thought it was plastic. Still waiting on the revival wiring harness kit. Should be able to start wiring sometime this January, maybe Feb. Don't want to rush it, want it to be done right the first time. I'm using stock controls so I'm going to have to make things work with it. If anyone has. Any pointers on wiring thee M-unit with a PMA/CDI kit, would love to hear your input. Thanks
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peterg
XS650 Addict
This is the wiring diagram for my bike using an M-Unit, PMA and Pamco with e-advance
Thank you for the schematic, mine is slightly different but I get the jist of it. It's funny that I'll sit down and try to draw out a wiring schematic, but get so mixed up when doing it.
Anywho, I noticed my M-Unit only flashes when it's running. The spot that flashes is the Bluetooth light, but I have a basic M-Unit, so I don't know if that's normal or not.
Good job 2Ball.
The looks reflect the work.
Quite a corral you have there.
I especially like the 2 little colts on the right against the wall.
The looks reflect the work.
Quite a corral you have there.
I especially like the 2 little colts on the right against the wall.
If you look in the back left, you can see a small 50cc black Chinese dirt bike, which is 1 of 2, the other is hiding behind the KM100Good job 2Ball.
The looks reflect the work.
Quite a corral you have there.
I especially like the 2 little colts on the right against the wall.
Did some fiddling today with the XS650. I readjusting the valves to spec, as the exhaust was too tight and the intake was too open. Bought my own timing light only to find out the one I borrowed was working fine, it's just my battery is too drained to make it work properly, because the brand new one was doing the same thing. Aside from that, I pulled the carbs, and readjusted the floats which were too low. Also mechanically synced the carbs using 1/8th drill bits, and I think I'm just going to leave it alone. My home-made manometer doesn't like to work all that great. I did buy a vacuum synchronizer from harbor freight, but as of right now, the bike runs smooth as hell. I would like to get the timing right, but the battery needs to be fully charged. I also properly adjusted the clutch, so now that is as it should be. All I'm waiting on for parts is a brake hose. After that, I'll just need to bleed the brake lines and I should be road ready for registration.
Just started it again, and something peculiar happened, when I used the starter, one carb had a backfire out of it, but I started it afterwards just fine. Also when I did the card test on the mufflers, one was consistently "tapping" exhaust pattern, and the other was more of a "chugga" exhaust pattern. Not sure if that's because one pipe is a little longer and bent differently or what.
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