Rewound Alternator Rotor gouges, trouble shooting charging system.

[gggGary]

.... the bike charges. ..... 3000 RPMs, or even a little higher, I see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high?? Should I put the old mechanical regulator back?

Yes; see what results you get with the old regulator post them, HERE!

 

[Jan_P]

Yes there is a fair chance more parts can fry
Maybe the electronic regulator already have done so

Pictures of the connectors + installation helps

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Yes there is a fair chance more parts can fry
Maybe the electronic regulator already have done so

Pictures of the connectors + installation helps

Highly doubt, the regulator and rectifier all in one is fried. This was brand new prior to me just installing new rotor and starting the bike 20 minutes ago.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

shouldn't you be posting questions in your own thread. Gggary cleaned this thread up and moved a lot of posts from here to over there.

That’s what I thought until he just told me to reply to this thread. I have no idea what’s going on.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Thanks skull, posts moved.
good to hear it's charging
A: it's too high
Which regulator?
B: inexpensive regulators tend to fail in full charge mode.
C: running a charging system "balls to the wall" can and does fry rotors AND batteries.
Don't ride til you get these issues figured out.
The diode tests you've done are fine for the rectifier but do nothing for testing the regulator part of a solid state rectifier regulator. The volt meter is really the only output test. it either works correctly or not. There can be wiring issues that cause a regulator to THINK the battery needs more juice when it doesn't.

The voltage regulator test were all good. Contact up contact middle and contact all the way down. All them tests were good.

 

[gggGary]

Highly doubt, the regulator and rectifier all in one is fried. This was brand new prior to me just installing new rotor and starting the bike 20 minutes ago.

Other alternatives; there's an "unfound" problem in the bike's wiring, you wired it wrong, or bought the wrong part.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Yes; see what results you get with the old regulator post them, HERE!

I was just worried about installing the old regulator because Jim says that’s what he thinks fried the rotor last time. So why would I take a chance and install the old mechanical regulator, and have a chance to fry the rotor you JUST sent me?

 

[gggGary]

I moved 3 MORE posts from the "other thread" to this one.

 

[gggGary]

I was just worried about installing the old regulator because Jim says that’s what he thinks fried the rotor last time. So why would I take a chance and install the old mechanical regulator, and have a chance to fry the rotor you JUST sent me?

Running what you have at 15+ volts will fry a THIRD rotor.

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

Running what you have at 15+ volts will fry a THIRD rotor.

I’m not gonna run it. Here’s the regulator rectifier all in one, the new one. Right here pictured. Seems to be a pretty quality part. Plug and play. All wires are color-coded identically and line up perfectly in both harnesses.

 

[jpdevol]

I wonder what the voltage on the brown wire @ the regulator plug is

 

[75XSFLORIDA]

I wonder what the voltage on the brown wire @ the regulator plug is

Same as battery, like 12.6

 

[GLJ]

see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high??

Replacing the rotor and 15.4 volts now prove 1 thing. The old rotor was bad.
15.4 volts at the battery also proves you are not regulating the rotor correctly. 15+ volts will cook a battery.
Sounds like you have a wiring problem also.

I wonder what the voltage on the brown wire @ the regulator plug is

I would check what the voltage is between the brown and black wires are at the regulator and between the brown at the regulator and ground at the battery post when the bike is running at 3000.

 

[Jan_P]

An electronic regulator .will most likely fry within seconds if you connect it wrong
The rectifier can take it .But It is not known how the internal wiring is there. Inside

Now the rationale for the old mechanical regulator is

It is serviceable .And if i Understand it right you have performed the checks according to the service manual
with a pass ...So we have signals it is can be OK
You know how it works
It is not a guarantee since it can fail hot
But it can take a little time warming up
That regulator is not so sensitive as the electronic ones ..

I don't currently have the Info to give advice since I know that expensive parts can fry within Milli seconds

Your choice ..

It was told that all colors was right in harness and New regulator was the same Plug and Play Rectifier but it is not regulating

Not as a advice but something to think about Your choice ..
Stock regulator in
Fuses in place
Measure Voltage at Brushes
No start .. report here

 

[gggGary]

for my own reference;

JP Devol has a good point.
Ohm out the main on off (key) switch. a bad, corroded internals main switch can be the problem here.
I've been thinking along those lines for a while now.
The voltage regulator looks at the brown wire to see what it THINKS the battery needs. If that voltage is low it will continue to provide full alternator output to the battery even though the RED wire is at 15 volts and is overcharging the battery.
A high resistance in the ignition switch will make the brown wire read low. It should be within 1/2 volt of the battery voltage.
Corroded contacts in the key switch are VERY common. If it hasn't been rebuilt, cleaned, there is internal resistance there.
The 75 switch is a bit of an oddball has 5 leads the other years have just 3.

 

[5twins]

Many times those combo reg/recs are bad right out of the box. That's one of the reasons I'm so against buying them and using them. They can be very expensive and the quality just plain sucks, lol.

 

[650Skull]

THANKS GARY!!!
OK guys. So the bike charges. My problem is fixed. It definitely was the rotor. Just installing the rotor and doing a slap test, pulls a 10 mm wrench right out of my hand. The other rotor has zero magnetic pull. My question is, though, when revving the bike till like 3000 RPMs, or even a little higher, I see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high?? Should I put the old mechanical regulator back?

I haven't been commenting because there are enough member giving you correct advice on the no' regarding reg voltage output, rotor specs and anything needed.

Why are you repeatedly asking the questions that have been answered several times regarding voltage output, 99.9% of the questions your asking now will have been answered and posted in this thread, (or Jim and 5Twins thread).

Take a step back and stop to think what your doing and give you brain time to absorb some of the information and answers, or a light-bulb moment, just might come to you.

Yes it is easy to keep asking on here as long as members are willing to answer............The manual also has relevant voltage rotor and regulater specs

 

[jpdevol]

I've not used an Electrosport regulator/rectifier combo; I'm guessing it uses the brown regulator lead to sense battery voltage, but - even by their specs - the max set voltage should be 14.5VDC. I think you should call their customer support

 

[GLJ]

The voltage regulator looks at the brown wire to see what it THINKS the battery needs. If that volatge is low it will continue to provide full alternator output to the battery even though the RED wire is at 15 volts and is overcharging the battery.

Same effect if the black (ground) to the regulator has a problem.

 

[GLJ]

Your problem now is 1 of 2 things.
1 a bad regulator or 2 a wiring problem causing the regulator to see a lower voltage then what the battery has.