.... the bike charges. ..... 3000 RPMs, or even a little higher, I see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high?? Should I put the old mechanical regulator back?
Yes; see what results you get with the old regulator post them, HERE!
.... the bike charges. ..... 3000 RPMs, or even a little higher, I see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high?? Should I put the old mechanical regulator back?
Yes there is a fair chance more parts can fry
Maybe the electronic regulator already have done so
Pictures of the connectors + installation helps
shouldn't you be posting questions in your own thread. Gggary cleaned this thread up and moved a lot of posts from here to over there.
Thanks skull, posts moved.
good to hear it's charging
A: it's too high
Which regulator?
B: inexpensive regulators tend to fail in full charge mode.
C: running a charging system "balls to the wall" can and does fry rotors AND batteries.
Don't ride til you get these issues figured out.
The diode tests you've done are fine for the rectifier but do nothing for testing the regulator part of a solid state rectifier regulator. The volt meter is really the only output test. it either works correctly or not. There can be wiring issues that cause a regulator to THINK the battery needs more juice when it doesn't.
Other alternatives; there's an "unfound" problem in the bike's wiring, you wired it wrong, or bought the wrong part.Highly doubt, the regulator and rectifier all in one is fried. This was brand new prior to me just installing new rotor and starting the bike 20 minutes ago.
Yes; see what results you get with the old regulator post them, HERE!
Running what you have at 15+ volts will fry a THIRD rotor.I was just worried about installing the old regulator because Jim says that’s what he thinks fried the rotor last time. So why would I take a chance and install the old mechanical regulator, and have a chance to fry the rotor you JUST sent me?
Running what you have at 15+ volts will fry a THIRD rotor.
I wonder what the voltage on the brown wire @ the regulator plug is
Replacing the rotor and 15.4 volts now prove 1 thing. The old rotor was bad.see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high??
I would check what the voltage is between the brown and black wires are at the regulator and between the brown at the regulator and ground at the battery post when the bike is running at 3000.I wonder what the voltage on the brown wire @ the regulator plug is
THANKS GARY!!!
OK guys. So the bike charges. My problem is fixed. It definitely was the rotor. Just installing the rotor and doing a slap test, pulls a 10 mm wrench right out of my hand. The other rotor has zero magnetic pull. My question is, though, when revving the bike till like 3000 RPMs, or even a little higher, I see like 15.4V. Is that OK or is that too high?? Should I put the old mechanical regulator back?
Same effect if the black (ground) to the regulator has a problem.The voltage regulator looks at the brown wire to see what it THINKS the battery needs. If that volatge is low it will continue to provide full alternator output to the battery even though the RED wire is at 15 volts and is overcharging the battery.