1981 front brakes - need help

happydaze

John
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Does anyone have a picture of how the shims go in for my 1981 front brake caliper?

As some of you may remember, I recently rebuilt my front caliper. It worked fine for a day. Next day I took the bike to a shop to have the wheels relaced. About 10 blocks from the shop the caliper froze up again. So, I took it there anyway because by then I was much closer to the shop than I was to home. I specifically asked the guy to just open the bleeder and push the piston in and said I would fix it myself from there.

Instead of doing what I asked, he decided to take the brake pads out, remove the brake lever so I couldn't use it, and give me back a bag of parts, saying that it was "too dangerous" to ride it the way it was. Of course he was trying to get me to pay him to fix the caliper.

Today I installed a new piston, and cleaned out some sediment that was in there. My problem now is that I don't remember how the shims go in.

I'm really pissed at this guy for not doing what I asked and I will never go back there even though the wheels turned out great. :banghead: :mad:

Thanks for any help.
 
I just answered my own question. I took the 2 halves of the caliper apart again and then it became obvious. I'm still pissed at this guy though for not doing what I asked. It surely was not any less safe than sending me home with no brake lever!
 
Do you know if you can see them with the brakes together?
I`ve never had to remove mine off so I dont know but I can look at them when I get home from work and see if you can tell and take a pic.
 
In the M/C there is a tiny bleed hole. As the rubber lines age they rot from the inside. This crud floats around in the fluid just waiting to plug up something.
This tiny port relives line pressure when not using the brakes. If plugged the pads can't retract enough and drag a bit, this heats things up, pressure builds and the caliper locks on the rotor. You need to clean out the M/C.
This tiny port is covered by the out port side of the reservoir. You need to remove the reservoir to get to this port.
Leo
 
Another thing, replace those 30 some year old rubber lines, New rubber is ok but the braided stainless lines are a good upgrade. Rubber lines swell up and waste some of your lever inputs to do so. The stainless steel don't so all of your lever effort goes to the brakes.
Swapping the stock 14mm caliper for a 10 or 11 mm M/C greatly improves the braking.
Stronger brakes with better feel.
Leo
 
Thanks for that info. I think I'm going to buy a new master cylinder and hose from Mike's. I don't want to spend a whole day playing with this thing.
 
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