Yeah. I thought I recognized that right hand bend. They look great on your bike.
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77D assessment.
- Thread starter Wingedwheel
- Start date
Do those work without cooking the paint on the side cover?
Time will tell. They are just rattle can painted anyway.
I think I found my bad connections.
However this splice is perplexing. R/Y to I think it’s Purple.
However this splice is perplexing. R/Y to I think it’s Purple.
I think it's blue. That would be tail light and instrument lights. The R/Y would be power out of the main switch to the headlight on-off switch.
It was a little perplexing because my voltage was good in the bucket coming off the switch but had the drop at the coils. I did notice it actually dropped slowly from 11.8 to 10.6. Something was pulling it down slowly. AFIK there would only be one thing causing that and I confirmed it when I touched the coils. The left one was fine but the right one was getting warm. I have a few replacements lying around somewhere so that’s my next check.
I don’t know what I was thinking with that “parts changer” mentality. They both OHM out. Hmmmm
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In conclusion, don’t overthink. The drop I was seeing was from the points doing their job. Obviously what I repaired in the bucket did the trick and it started right up.
Yes, when a points set is closed, it's coil will be charging up for the next spark and can get hot if left sitting like this too long. That's why it's not a good idea to leave the key on for long periods of time without the motor running. There's a very good chance at least one set of points is going to be closed and it's coil could heat up to the point of burning itself out.
Next up getting the front brakes working. I freed up the caliper and cleaned it out, cleared the lines and cleaned out the MC. Using compressed air the passages appear to be open so I’ll give it a try. If it doesn’t work then back off for a tear down.
Took a LOT of flushing but Mytvac to the rescue! Brakes will throw you over the handlebars now. I said I wasn’t going to do anything to this bike right now but one things leads into another. I caught myself cleaning surface rust off the back fender. I just keep telling myself “ No strip and paint, No strip and paint”. Lol
A general question, seeing as how this MC looks like it leaked before(blistered control paint) I’m wondering if these MC’s can be prone to leaking? I tucked a rag under it just in case and I’ll look at it in the morning but The rubber gasket is suspect in my book.
It appears the MC is leaking slightly. Has anyone had luck by switching the diaphragm or gasket out?
Thinking I had to replace or clean the plunger and what went with that. I've seen the covers warped from time and temperature.
MC is working fine, all internals clean and functioning. I just have a little “weepage” around the cap. I’m seeing new seals are available but the cost is over half what a replacement unit would cost.
Old, dried brake fluid forms a "crust" around the lid sealing surface. That often dimples or "dents" that sealing lip on the diaphragm. I often get some minor seeping from the lid after cleaning the crust off but it usually seals up eventually.
I don't think I'd put any money into the original 14mm MC. I'd put it towards a slightly smaller replacement, something in the 11 to 13mm range.
I snugged the screw up a little and things seem to be dry but still checking while I wait for some in-line fuel filters to show.
I basically just cleaned and flushed the whole system I’m only out time and a pint of brake fluid
