Adopting another problem child

My keepers also came in from Mikes along with my All Balls fork seal and cap set. I’m going to get that last valve installed, replace my broken honing stones and clean up All 4 sleeves and take them to someone that has the correct tool to measure them.
 
I wanted to revisit my question about the cylinders and this may be a dumb question, but if the cylinders are within spec with the pistons and there is also a spec for the ring end-gap how does that work if the gap is big? Just a little confused about that part. I do understand they will close up a bit once operating temp is reached but I’m assuming the spec is for cold?
 
I think I am making it too hard. According to the Manual I am perfectly within spec. FC486C5C-0D92-4A4A-8760-ED2BBAC482C1.png
 
So, new parts vs used parts. Piston skirt clearance to used bore, new piston, hoping to see .002"-.003. Used to used, perhaps .005". , less than .006". IME, if the piston clearance is correct, new ring-gap should be correct. Used ring who knows - service limit .030". Bore and piston best measured with micrometer. The real question is: are the bores in spec for new piston and rings, or does it need bored next size?
 
I was making too big a deal out of it. Clearances are all within manual specs and quite below the max. All this because I misunderstood the ring gap. Amazing what a little reading and calculations will do for you. All the parts will be in by Weds. all I’m waiting on are my engine seals which shouldn’t keep me from moving forward.
 
As far as I can go without seals. I probably should get started on the chassis pretty quick. Got a lot of things to paint and powdercoat. 7A8DCF95-1173-4F2A-8299-705FFC236462.jpeg
 
Ordered my tires and a set of neck bearings from all ballz yesterday. I have a whole box of parts yet I’m always thinking of something else I’m going to need or forgot. I need to sit down, make a list of tasks and start marking them off. This bike was so neglected and abused lol.
 
Tires came in along with the neck bearings but my engine seals are a week overdue. I thought I’d try a different seller on eBay because where I’ve gotten the sets in the past is OOS. Piston rings came from Germany and showed up NP. Seals are coming from Italy IIRC and tracking is pretty crappy. I also pulled my normal oh crap moment with the tires. I always seem to forget I will need new tubes as well. I have a minute before I’ll need them so they’ll go on the next order.
 
Seems to still be an issue with my seals being lost in the wonderful shipping world. J&P also screwed up and sent me two rear tires instead of one of each so one of those is going back. That won’t be a bad thing as I can now order my tubes and possibly get more free shipping. I decided to finish tearing things down and I found something while I was cleaning the frame. Seems like it got hit or something to put a dent in the left rear side. It doesn’t appear to affect anything. Rear axle was a bear but that was from lack of grease more than anything else. I got really lucky and only had issues with the rear axle, one center stand shoulder bolt, cinch bolt for the rear brake lever was broken and I cracked the nut for the side stand taking it off. Just curious about this frame. The paint is not damaged in that area and I’m very sure everything on this bike is factory OEM so the exhaust on that side hasn’t been replaced. Anybody got any thoughts about this frame?FE7A3A00-5BF5-4384-886B-F270D73F274D.jpeg5E41DA34-7AD3-495A-A762-4EB0FFB2E736.jpegI think the gusset being right at the ding it kept it a little more solid.459B304E-DB39-4DC4-8002-E18833E6E92E.jpeg59E47373-1C14-4DE4-934B-6A1FE2FBE4FF.jpeg695D9421-AB0A-42D6-8EC1-13B71FD62DF8.jpeg
 
I also began noticing the differences between this frame and my ‘76. Mounting plate for the coils is angled, horn brackets are detachable and there are two along with corresponding holes. I thought most of the years would have remained the same after ‘73. Obviously they made changes every few years.
 
That is a pretty good impact point on that frame tube.


I know but it’s more like it’s crushed since I can’t find any other damage and paint is undamaged. I guess I found my next problem to obsess about. Nothing appeared to be affected when I was disassembling it but I attributed any difficulty taking things off with the condition of the bike. Structurally I don’t see an issue what it could potentially do to the handling or even the value of the bike is what has me thinking.
 
There have been threads where a the owner showed how to check frame alignment using a string and tape measure. It might be worth your time to check that. That frame member seem to be under tension so it shouldn't collapse.
 
I used a black primer which I normally don’t do as it makes it easier for me to miss spots so I spritzed it with a little grey that I had to help me find the spots I miss, it actually works well.AE3353DF-DA96-4C43-A261-9DD229B8DF76.jpegDoesn’t appear to be bent or twisted on top. Once the paint dries and I can bring it inside I’ll set up a laser to check for twisting at the bottom but I feel like I’m ok. Since the paint was undamaged my neighbor asked if they could have sent it out from the factory like that? Since nothing else on the bike was damaged who knows! LolE34BD653-2C5F-435D-A3F5-6650E5B421F1.jpeg9F42FFA3-4566-4439-90E2-BDE888C7F402.jpegE3386D10-B253-4847-B3AF-9105E400CEE2.jpeg
 
I didn’t find this until I started painting it but funny thing it’s on the opposite side than the frame dinger.9BA8B2E0-A701-4CBF-BEEF-B19DA86179E3.jpeg5C8A136B-D667-4C10-A6A0-8F9FE4266EC7.jpeg I mean it’s a perfect edge and again there was no paint damage.
 
Well that’s nice to know, was it only ‘74-75 they did that? I don’t believe my ‘76 has that.
 
Well that’s nice to know, was it only ‘74-75 they did that? I don’t believe my ‘76 has that.
If it's a rear drum, yes it's there. It's to make room for the brake lever pivot... the part where the rod attaches.
It's not needed on the disc bikes because the rod goes straight up into the master cyl.



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