Just thinkin' out loud, when you pull that tape off, you might find the original wire and terminal still intact. If it is, you can get the correct battery and return it to original with little effort. That would be a big win.
ETX14 (no L) there it is.. get the "L" next time.. A Deka ETX14L wrapped once in gorilla tape, supported underneath, front, rear, results in a very sturdy, vibration resistant fit. (220 CCA). If it is, you can get the correct battery and return it to original with little effort. That would be a big win.
ETX15L is the correct battery. That's what I have and it requires no modification. Mine is a Deka AGM, 5 years old.ETX14 (no L) there it is.. get the "L" next time.. A Deka ETX14L wrapped once in gorilla tape, supported underneath, front, rear, results in a very sturdy, vibration resistant fit. (220 CCA)
I was going to grab a picture of it in the garage, but I ran out there without my smartphone. Yuasa is my other choice, also a quality product made in Pennsylvania.Curious as to how many CCA's is the ETX15L ?
Edit.. found it. 220 CCA as well.
Best choice
Yes, they're original... no, not supposed to have the gap. Looks like your PO was a real genius. It won't hurt anything, they'll work fine like that... I just don't like seeing stuff (needlessly) hacked up.These original? Looks like it might be...only thing that looks off to me is the gap in the rings, but perhaps it's designed that way.
Maybe... maybe not. We're dealing with a small clearance here... I'd feel better with a 10-20 min warmup/ride to ensure the rotor's warm and expanded as much as it'll get.Ran the bike and warmed it up for about 2 min (idle still not stable w/o choke at that point). Hope that's enough to check for any marker rubbings later
It's not a guarantee, but I generally tend to trust one that's passed all the tests.EDIT: if I take the old battery to the store and it passes volt and load test, there's nothing else that can be secretly wrong with it that we/they can't (and haven’t already) test for, correct?
Yeah, won't hurt anything as long as you get the larger gauge wire. In case you haven't learned about wiring yet, wire gauges are backwards (as are about all gauge standards).... the smaller the number, the larger the wire diameter.And I imagine I'm okay running it "backwards" as long as I get and switch to heavier gauge wire to reach terminals? Seems like it shouldn't matter as long as it reaches.
Yes, make sure the post positions are correct. The size battery that fits these comes both ways, Pos. on the left or right. You need it on the right rear. That's the other thing - many bikes don't mount their batteries with the terminals at the rear, they face them to the front. I've been using the Chrome brand batteries for the last couple years in both my 650s, reasonably priced and holding up OK so far .....
https://www.chromebattery.com/motorcycles/1979-yamaha-xs650-ytx14ahl+bs-battery.html
Shipping is free and they seem to have a 10% off coupon thing going. That will save you almost another $5.
Got it. I'm gonna throw it back together, get some more gas in and zip it around nearby. Fingers crossed I make it back. Side note, it's okay to mix 87 and 89 grade if you need to, yes?Maybe... maybe not. We're dealing with a small clearance here... I'd feel better with a 10-20 min warmup/ride to ensure the rotor's warm and expanded as much as it'll get.
I have not learned about wiring yet, but I did somehow know that about wire size gaugesthe smaller the number, the larger the wire diameter.