Yes, I couldn't agree more on the battery making it seem like there's a carb (or EFI/gas) problem. I saw the battery on my last bike take a full charge and read as charged on tender, but it seems it would not keep it as the idle would drop at stops. Got a new battery and problem was solved. I just figured this one was okay (at least for a bit longer) since when I did the the sitting test, the rev test, and the load test about 1-2 months ago, it passed. But at this point it's still a dangling question and getting a new one is the only way to know for sure.
And as several of you have noted, I agree that it doesn't mean I may not also (or even exclusively) have leaking float valves. There is the gas smell, and I'm still a bit suspicious of the rate of gas consumption, but it could certainly just be my bad.
Sounds to me like you ran out of gas. We've all been there. If I had a nickel for every time I went on RES, filled up and forgot to switch back to ON... then ran the tank dry thinking I
still had RES... I could go out and get drunk.
Thanks for that, haha. I felt like quite the dullard seeing that I was low/out of gas--still just doesn't seem to add up that it went quite that fast but perhaps I wasn't paying close enough attention to it, and yeah, I've been having to run/idle it for a long time and with a fair amount of choke, which is hard to account for how much gas that takes. Been used to having a fuel gauge. Certainly will be checking it more often now!
No, if it didn't leak, you're good. Not sure what checking again would accomplish? It didn't leak... let it be. In order for fuel to get into the engine, you'll need.... 1. a petcock leak. 2. one (or both) float valves leaking. 3. the bike parked on a downhill slope. You've eliminated condition 1, so it's doubtful you're getting fuel into the engine. Moving on.....
Got it. Thanks for the recap. I'd figured perhaps I put the hoses on poorly so it wasn't the petcock leaking but the hose not being sealed enough; but again I haven't seen any drips from there either. Just questioning my work and eyes I suppose
BTW, how did the oil filter and gaskets fix work out?
Ordering those today too. The filter went in. I haven't taken cover off since, nothing oozing out of it so hopefully I'm fine riding it (when I get it to again) until the new one(s) arrive.
SO, PLAN:
--look up batteries tonight and (hopefully) choose and buy one
--
@Jim Re the TCI box. That's an awesome and very generous offer, thank you! Sorry I didn't respond to it sooner, just been trying to sort my head from my ass and then what to do with it and all this information when I have limited knowledge to even assess which to choose first. I'm definitely up for it, but to save you the hassle of sending something, it seems it's wisest for me to FIRST try the battery once I get it and it arrives, and to try what you suggest below, and take a closer read at
@5twins suggested in #367 and what
@650Skull suggested in #357 and try those too
Another way to check.... easier too. No need to disassemble the air boxes. With the bike shut off, just turn the petcock to the PR (prime) position. This bypasses the vacuum shutoff and allows fuel to flow into the carbs. If one of the float valves is sticking, you'll get fuel flowing out the back of the carb and dripping out of the air box in short order. If you don't see any evidence of fuel in about 10 min, I'd say it's not leaking. If you do, we'll cross that bridge then.
To be clear, you mean I just look to see if it's dripping from air box in that time? Probably remove to see if they're wet at all?
Thanks as always everyone. Sorry if it's slow over here, I just ask you keep in mind that while many of these solutions or checks are simple to you guys, this is all first time stuff for me, so anything I do, i have to stop and figure out which suggestion I'm taking and why, what the parts are, where it is, how to handle it, what tools and supplies I need, then go get them and where, and IF there's time why and how they work together. And clearly there's been several things going on at once between idle and electric and oil filter and gaskets and valves and washers and and and almighty time and life waits for no one
Carbs are daunting but I'm actually excited to get into it a bit as I know I'll need to and it seems interesting, and yes I'll finally be able to start to understand how they work more. So anyway, thanks for your patience and thanks for all the diagrams and steps and specifics you guys have just provided.
You shouldn't be able to run the bike for 10 minutes or more with the chokes on like you said you did.
Ahaaa. This being clogged would also seem to explain why it needs more than usual and why it's so sensitive to me backing it off just a touch when it's been on for a while already..
Just noticed this.... looks like the rotor is rubbing on the stator. That indicates that the rotor might not be running true. Are those rub marks as they look Marie? If so, are there corresponding rub marks on the rotor?
View attachment 182604
I'll check that out today!