The mind boggles 
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An LED Ignition Timing Light experiment
- Thread starter TwoManyXS1Bs
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical how to maintenance tools
Hey, WER. Since the TCI ignition and Pamco ignition are somewhat similar, I guess I'll go out on a limb, and say that those three circuits in post #50 should work with the Pamco. If not, it would probably take a simple tweak to get it to work.
And, yes, the power source can be from the ignition power (battery). The choice of circuit would depend on how someone wants to mount the LEDs. If they're grounded, they would need to be powered by circuit #2. If they can be powered down there, then the simpler circuit #3 can be used, as in DogBunny's implementation.
Edit: Re-reading your question, I get the impression that you're thinking that the LEDs are powered by the alternator's yellow wire? No, the yellow wire was cut from the alternator wiring, and DogBunny repurposed that wire as the grounding wire for his LEDs. They're getting their power from the alternator's powered inner brush...
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TwoMany, could you modify your circuit to be used on a Chevy v-8 with a HEI style ignition? I realize this is not bike related, but I have been trying the DIY circuits online with limited success (dim led output). when I came across your thread! I am using a ferrite clamp w/100 turns on #1 plug wire, but I assume this simply doesn't supply enuf juice to properly power an led? I don't know squat about electronics, but it seems your circuitry powers the leds separately? any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
It is such an interesting and potentially useful device that I’m surprised someone hasn’t marketted such a gizmo.
...perhaps a new product line for 2M Industries.....
...perhaps a new product line for 2M Industries.....
Here's a ready-to-go bolt-on solution, about $50.
https://www.jegs.com/p/Proform/Prof...ith-Built-In-LED-Timing-Light/761701/10002/-1
The clamp or wire-wrap on plug wire method supplies only a triggering signal, not enuff power to drive LEDs. They will have to be powered by the vehicle's 12 volt system.
If you want to pursue a plugwire triggered project, I would suggest either circuit #2 or #3 from post #50.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/an-led-ignition-timing-light-experiment.44586/page-3#post-487663
Circuit #3 is simpler, but circuit #2 gives a better "snap" control over the LED power. You'd connect your wrapped-wire trigger to the input line marked "TCI". Since the magnitude, and polarity, of the triggering pulse is an unknown, you'll have to experiment with different values of the 10k input resistor (up to 1 meg), different wind counts, and reversal of the trigger wrap...
https://www.jegs.com/p/Proform/Prof...ith-Built-In-LED-Timing-Light/761701/10002/-1
The clamp or wire-wrap on plug wire method supplies only a triggering signal, not enuff power to drive LEDs. They will have to be powered by the vehicle's 12 volt system.
If you want to pursue a plugwire triggered project, I would suggest either circuit #2 or #3 from post #50.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/an-led-ignition-timing-light-experiment.44586/page-3#post-487663
Circuit #3 is simpler, but circuit #2 gives a better "snap" control over the LED power. You'd connect your wrapped-wire trigger to the input line marked "TCI". Since the magnitude, and polarity, of the triggering pulse is an unknown, you'll have to experiment with different values of the 10k input resistor (up to 1 meg), different wind counts, and reversal of the trigger wrap...
Next rev, use the pickup to get the crank position, and display the timing on an LCD display.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/EK-TM4C123GXL?qs=TB/Q0sBK/GefKGr%2BQsiJWQ==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/EK-TM4C123GXL?qs=TB/Q0sBK/GefKGr%2BQsiJWQ==
Question for you Steve...
I'm gonna make the same one DogBunny made based off this schematic.
However, the caps I have are rated at 1kv for the 150 and 330pf caps. That gonna make any difference?
I'm gonna make the same one DogBunny made based off this schematic.
However, the caps I have are rated at 1kv for the 150 and 330pf caps. That gonna make any difference?
^Spec'ed voltage ratings for caps and most other components are just minimums. Has to do with size, cost, availability, etc
If you need them, I've got the 150 and 330 that I used. For you, free.
Thanks DB. If Steve vetoes the 1kv's, I'll take you up on that.
1000v will work instead of 500v
Holy vacuum tube ratings. Yea Jim, they will work fine.
Plan on building one with the DB variation to hook to the gonzo
Plan on building one with the DB variation to hook to the gonzo
The word "electrocution" comes from "electric", obviously, and "execution". Technically, no one was ever electrocuted before the electric chair was invented because the word didn't exist.
I figured they would... jus' wanted the designer giving me a nod...
Since the TCI tap is off the ign coil trigger sig... and we're using the same coil for both, I'm thinkin' it should work for both without any mods. One of the reasons I want to install it is so it's there to tweak the trigger when swapping back and forth between boxes... nothing more than a screwdriver required.
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Edison came up with the idea to show how dangerous Tesla's AC current was. He put on pretty grizzly displays of electrocuting animals to promote his DC system.
On the schematics, I don't see any positive connection just three earths. Where does the power come from to light the LEDs?
