Yes, you could use DOT 4 or 5.1. Personally, I use DOT 4. It's really just a better, more heavy duty DOT 3. All mentioned are glycol-based. What you can't use is DOT 5, it is silicone based. When your bike was made, I don't think 4 or 5.1 had come out yet.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Hi marp,
most cans of brake fluid are labelled DOT3/DOT4 these days.
I'd fight shy of DOT5.1 (which is compatible) because my aging vision might mistakenly pick DOT5 (which ain't) instead
most cans of brake fluid are labelled DOT3/DOT4 these days.
I'd fight shy of DOT5.1 (which is compatible) because my aging vision might mistakenly pick DOT5 (which ain't) instead
What do you guys think of these affordable caliper seals: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160922008038?clk_rvr_id=990162885241&rmvSB=true
"Powerhouse is the UK's leading provider of motorcycle brake refurbishment services"
"Powerhouse is the UK's leading provider of motorcycle brake refurbishment services"
Last edited:
That looks to be for one piston only, so you would need two "kits", four for dual discs. I see they also sell pistons, but again, individually, not in pairs. They also don't mention whether they are stainless or plain steel. Personally, if I was going to replace a piston, I would get a stainless one. They usually don't cost much, if any more than the plain steel ones and you would never have to worry about the rusting problem again.
I ran across these which may be mistakenly listed. The price is almost too good to be true ($30 for a PAIR of stainless pistons). They have them listed elsewhere for near twice that much which is why I wonder about this listing. I'd jump on it, you might get lucky .....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TZ...fc3acd7&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=4&sd=160922011471
I ran across these which may be mistakenly listed. The price is almost too good to be true ($30 for a PAIR of stainless pistons). They have them listed elsewhere for near twice that much which is why I wonder about this listing. I'd jump on it, you might get lucky .....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TZ...fc3acd7&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=4&sd=160922011471
Yes, but still more economical than buying from dedicated xs650 shops here in Europe. I really only need the dust sealer, which looks rather used. The other seal still looks very good and capable, but since they come together... I will try changing only the seals as a first step, since the pistons may work. With new pads they will not be seated further in this time.
Thanks TwoMany... I did know about the differences and possibilites, but just wanted to be sure about these old xs.
Yes that is a good price, 5twins.
I am going to flush and clean the brake lines. Normally one use the M/C and lever to flush new fluid down the lines, like when changing to new fluid.
But how do it efficiently without the M/C? Right now the lines are still on the bike. Just letting the gravity do the job seems to take time and I don't know how efficient it would be. Any other chemicals and methods to use?
Seems that some people use a wire, brake cleaner and air gun. Some recommends denatured alcohol (isopropanol).
But how do it efficiently without the M/C? Right now the lines are still on the bike. Just letting the gravity do the job seems to take time and I don't know how efficient it would be. Any other chemicals and methods to use?
Seems that some people use a wire, brake cleaner and air gun. Some recommends denatured alcohol (isopropanol).
Last edited:
I don't think poking wires through the lines is a good idea. I don't think brake cleaner is supposed to be used on rubber parts. I think blowing fresh fluid through with air is probably the best idea. Sounds messy, though, lol.
Yes, the wire and brake fluid seems risky. Maybe the best way is to put the M/C back and just keep pressing fresh fluid through the system until the fluid looks clean. I'm a bit worried though that some junk would make it's way up into the M/C.
There is no suction at the m/c. Pressure relief yes but no suction. The "piston" is one way all pressure is out to the caliper. I wouldn't worry about something working its way back up.
Alcohol of any type doesn't play well with rubber either. It dries it out.
Alcohol of any type doesn't play well with rubber either. It dries it out.
One of those vacuum pump bleeder tools would probably do the trick. You wouldn't need to pump the MC at all, just watch the fluid level and top it up as it gets low. You can pull a lot of fluid through the line a lot quicker than by hand pumping the MC.
Looks ok with a saving of $10 US a set, compared to mikes but the freight, $40 US is a killer. Would need to get that confirmed. This is to Aus but that is how they keep their prices so low, i'll check them out to confirm their postage.
Hi marp,
pump brake fluid up the line with a pump-style oil can.
pump brake fluid up the line with a pump-style oil can.
Gibson
XS650 Addict
Brake bleeding tool is a great thing to have. I use it a lot & it makes these jobs a lot faster. Need to put Teflon tape on threads of bleed fittings on caliper and it works great.
Think i'll have try with the oil can method...
Is the rubber seal in the middle turned the right way (see the lip on the right side)? Didn't remove it, but just want to be sure before putting everything back together.
Also, would it be a good idea to put silicone grease not only on the rubber parts, but also the whole piston to prevent oxidation?
Is the rubber seal in the middle turned the right way (see the lip on the right side)? Didn't remove it, but just want to be sure before putting everything back together.
Also, would it be a good idea to put silicone grease not only on the rubber parts, but also the whole piston to prevent oxidation?
Attachments
Hi marp,
oil can should work. What would work better is replacing that elderly brake hose with a new one, or upgrading to a stainless hose set-up.
The seal looks OK to me, at least it's the same way round as the seal shown in the photo in Gary's post #75.
Slathering the whole assembly with hydraulic systems assembly grease won't hurt although once the system is filled with hydraulic fluid only the outside will need protection.
oil can should work. What would work better is replacing that elderly brake hose with a new one, or upgrading to a stainless hose set-up.
The seal looks OK to me, at least it's the same way round as the seal shown in the photo in Gary's post #75.
Slathering the whole assembly with hydraulic systems assembly grease won't hurt although once the system is filled with hydraulic fluid only the outside will need protection.
Effin' double post. WTF does the system sometimes do that, eh?
In Gary's post the rubber is seen from the other way. You don't really see which way the lip is facing.
okej, great.
I tried to push the piston into the M/C (without spring and cup), but it was really hard. Had to use a lot of force to even begin. Should it be that difficult or am i missing something here?
The Clymer manual says it should go in easy ad not to use force.
I tried to push the piston into the M/C (without spring and cup), but it was really hard. Had to use a lot of force to even begin. Should it be that difficult or am i missing something here?
The Clymer manual says it should go in easy ad not to use force.
