Clutch Issue

[xlr8tn]

Hey guys,
Fixed up my clutch cables today, but now that I am hooking up everything, I am noticing a bunch of slack and no real pull back. Basically I engage the clutch lever and then it stays there and doesn't spring back. I replaced the rod to the single one that got rid of the 2 parts plus a ball bearing. I do have one ball bearing in the worm screw. What am I missing here, something doesn't seem right. What rebounds the lever, cause the spring on the worm drive seems weak?

Thanks,
Brent

 

[Grinder]

After changing the pushrod maybe you just need to readjust the free play with the side cover adjuster.

 

[xlr8tn]

Grinder, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I saw a little video on youtube and this adjustment should do the trick.

 

[xlr8tn]

Argh...dang nut is stuck...tried a little heat and then penetrating fluid, without success.

 

[gggGary]

I use a deep 12mm socket on an impact wrench they always zip right off. Re-tighten only with hand tools.

 

[XSLeo]

Every time you do anything to the clutch you must readjust the worm and cable. The repair manual has a very good "How To".
Leo

 

[xlr8tn]

Ok...just installed a new worm drive assembly as the one that came with my bike was messed up. Adjusted the set screw until it seemed to touch the push rod and locked down the nut. Free play up at the clutch lever is a lot better, but man is it ever hard to pull the lever back now. So I was able to shift into first, but I should be able to move the bike with the clutch in and can not. Can anyone show me where the worm drive should sit without the spring or wire attached? Also the lever doesn't seem to spring back well.

Brent

 

[gggGary]

Is the clutch cable new? Routing is critical. A couple of too tight bends will bind up even a good cable.

 

[5twins]

Threaded all the way into the female part that mounts on the case, it should look something like this .....

The metal male part with the arm has 4 "splines" .....

You can start it threading into the female part in 4 different positions, but only one will give you the correct final position when fully threaded in. As you can see, the arm is in about the 7 o'clock position when correct. If you started it wrong, you would end up at like 5 o'clock, 2 o'clock, or 10 o'clock.

How tight did you make the two screws holding the plastic female part in the case? They can't be super tight or it distorts the plastic female part and makes for a hard lever pull. Just make them a bit past snug. You should have the worm packed with grease too (and re-do it every spring).

 

[gggGary]

Might want to look at this for routing ideas. http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41987

 

[xlr8tn]

Issue resolved. Thanks for all the comments and articles. I did exactly what you said and all is well now. Purchased some 3-in-1 oil and dripped it until it came out the bottom, then packed the worm drive with some grease. Smooth as silk now.

-Brent

 

[5twins]

I use regular motor oil for the cables. Takes a bit longer to drip through but lasts longer. When I do my yearly left cover "maintenance", the first thing I do is disconnect the clutch cable top and bottom and start adding a couple drips of oil to the top about every 5 minutes or so. In between doing this, I clean out the left cover and worm, and re-grease everything. By the time I'm done doing all that, the oil has usually made it to the bottom of the cable. Besides greasing the worm, I also coat the exposed portion of the pushrod, the exposed section of the cable hanging out from the bottom of the sheath, and the section of shift shaft that resides and turns in the cover once it's mounted. I also lube (grease or anti-seize) the cover locating dowels so install/removal is easier .....