Beautiful bike Dom!
Thanks, let's hope it stops a bit quicker than it did before! I have overhauled the entire front brakes and master cylinder, I'd rather keep it original so a smaller diameter master cylinder isn't really an option- unless there is one in the same style used on another Yam?
The smaller Ø master cylinder fitted on Miss November was listed by MCP for RD250 or RD200 so it's Yamaha style and the mirror thread matches other Yamaha fittings. Huge improvement over the original. That felt wooden and just awful, now the brake has much more feel and I can really pin the front end to the tarmac.Thanks, let's hope it stops a bit quicker than it did before! I have overhauled the entire front brakes and master cylinder, I'd rather keep it original so a smaller diameter master cylinder isn't really an option- unless there is one in the same style used on another Yam?
I've googled mcp but so many places come up. Do you have a link?The smaller Ø master cylinder fitted on Miss November was listed by MCP for RD250 or RD200 so it's Yamaha style and the mirror thread matches other Yamaha fittings. Huge improvement over the original. That felt wooden and just awful, now the brake has much more feel and I can really pin the front end to the tarmac.
I've googled mcp but so many places come up. Do you have a link?The smaller Ø master cylinder fitted on Miss November was listed by MCP for RD250 or RD200 so it's Yamaha style and the mirror thread matches other Yamaha fittings. Huge improvement over the original. That felt wooden and just awful, now the brake has much more feel and I can really pin the front end to the tarmac.
Tganks @5twins ,I presume I need to get the top engine mount off to get to the inner nuts. I've done the drilled disc mod and braided lines but in a fairness the pads are probably not that new, there's plenty of meat on them but I'd say they are ancient. Other than that I think the MC is the limiting factor.The only "revision" I do on the head bolt torques is raise the value slightly on the 8 large acorn nuts. The book calls for 26 or 27 ft/lbs and I go 28 to 30. I start with 28 but will go as high as 30 if there are still small leaks. If it still leaks after that then well, it's head gasket replacement time, lol. The one on my '78 has gone bad and no amount of retorques have fixed it. I even went up to 35 pounds and all that did was stress the studs. I could feel them stretching, lol, and it still leaked. That's why I limit my max to 30 pounds now.
Yes, drilling the disc should improve even the dry weather braking a little. I noticed this on my '83 when I swapped on a drilled disc to replace the original solid one.
View attachment 241862
Thanks @5twins ,I presume I need to get the top engine mount off to get to the inner nuts. I've done the drilled disc mod and braided lines but in a fairness the pads are probably not that new, there's plenty of meat on them but I'd say they are ancient. Other than that I think the MC is the limiting factor.The only "revision" I do on the head bolt torques is raise the value slightly on the 8 large acorn nuts. The book calls for 26 or 27 ft/lbs and I go 28 to 30. I start with 28 but will go as high as 30 if there are still small leaks. If it still leaks after that then well, it's head gasket replacement time, lol. The one on my '78 has gone bad and no amount of retorques have fixed it. I even went up to 35 pounds and all that did was stress the studs. I could feel them stretching, lol, and it still leaked. That's why I limit my max to 30 pounds now.
Yes, drilling the disc should improve even the dry weather braking a little. I noticed this on my '83 when I swapped on a drilled disc to replace the original solid one.
View attachment 241862
Final question I promise! What size copper washers?If you've never changed the 4 outside rubber/metal washers to copper then yes, this would be a good time for that. Once I change them, I rarely replace them again. I suppose I might if I tore it down again for another rebuild but I don't for just all these routine re-torques.