First XS650 Build, What to Look For

I think the picture of this string method would be very helpful. Would love to see it if you get a chance to take one.

In the mean time, I've used a piece of flat stock against the side of the front sprocket and aligned the rear wheel so that it sits flush against both sprockets. Am I correct in assuming that if both sprockets sit flush against that flat stock, they are aligned properly?

I got confused by the comment about the CENTER of the front sprocket needing to align with the SIDE of the rear sprocket.
 
Here's the bike now, put the engine in, carb manifold and carb on. Carb doesn't line up so great with this frame, but Wes from counterbalance cycles offered to make another to work better with this setup. He's a great guy to work with and has been extremely helpful during the build process. Really stands behind his work.

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I think the picture of this string method would be very helpful. Would love to see it if you get a chance to take one.

In the mean time, I've used a piece of flat stock against the side of the front sprocket and aligned the rear wheel so that it sits flush against both sprockets. Am I correct in assuming that if both sprockets sit flush against that flat stock, they are aligned properly?

I got confused by the comment about the CENTER of the front sprocket needing to align with the SIDE of the rear sprocket.

Checking the sides of the sprockets with a straight line works on mine because the front sprocket is the same width as my back sprocket, as it should be to match the chain size used.

Scott
 
Sorry I couldn't explain the string better. I just grew up building with my dad, started first roofing job at 8 yo, I've built and straightened buildings 100' and longer with string, in my blood I guess.
 
I'm not trying to say that your method doesn't work, I just can't understand what you're saying by reading alone. If you could sketch it in paint even that would be helpful. I've always been a visual learner and it's difficult to read it and understand.
 
Anyone on here also running the red 2.8ohm andrews coil? The way it connects to the spark plug wires appears to be different than the stock coils.

Stock coil has a male end which connects to the female end on the wires.

Andrews coil has a female end, can I strip the wire back and run it as is or does the andrews coil need a different type?
 
You need crimps on the ends of the plug wires, just like car plug wires use to plug into a car distributor. I use VW Beetle wires. They come with the crimps already installed on one end. You just need to install an NGK motorcycle plug cap on the other end in place of the straight rubber plug boot.

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Sounds easy enough, do you have a link to the wires you usually purchase? I'd love to grab a set that I know someone else has used with good results. Trying to iron out all the electronics by end of next week so I have time to test ride before I have to leave for Ohio.

Should also put it out there that if anyone is in the MA/NH area and has experience with a build, I could really use and would be happy to reward your help at this point. Pushing up a little closer to deadline than I wanted to be, and someone who has been in my shoes before would be an incredible asset right now.

Plenty of beer will be provided haha
 
I use the EMPI brand. If you shop around, you can usually find them for between $15 and $20 a set. You get 5 wires in a set, enough to do 2 1/2 650s, lol. They come in blue, red, yellow, and maybe black. If you look at the pic, the small ends on the wires will plug right into your Andrews coil .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPI-9407-B...ash=item3ac868d74c:g:JdcAAOxy3cJTiUdP&vxp=mtr

Make sure you get the solid wire core non-resistor type.
 
Resistor caps, yes, and I prefer the "F" type you've linked to. I think they attach better to the plugs than the "terminal nut" E type .....

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More progress, spent some time fabricating (and I use that term loosely) a headlight mount for the bobber. Here's a shot of it

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It holds the headlight on like this. In this shot you can also see that I've removed the two front holes on the top triple tree to clean it up a bit.
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Closer shot of that triple tree
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However, it doesn't hold it on very well because for whatever reason (please let me know if I'm missing the utility in this design) the headlight is made to attach to a wobbly screw which doesn't hold it firmly in place. I've got a plan to counteract this by utilizing a rubber spacer which will sit between the headlight and the bottom of the mount so that when the nut below is tightened, it "pulls down" the base of the light into the rubber spacer and keeps it from moving. Think of it like a rubber collar. Here's the shot of the piece in question, and a drawing of what I mean.
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Next holdup was with the footpegs. I got a set of controls from Jumpstreet Customs which appear to be decent. However, when mounted on the bike they don't look even. Is it possible that the right side exhaust mounting bracket was welded on uneven from the factory? Unless the peg is welded wrong, that appears to be what's wrong. I could counteract this by adding a few washers between the front hole of the exhaust mount and the footpeg mount.
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Another shot of that
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Also, if anyone has used either jumpstreet or monstercraftsman footpegs, did you notice any flex when you put weight on them? Mine definitely move a bit when I stand on them, but maybe that's normal

Hopefully it clears the side cover when I put it on
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Need to bend the brake linkage a bit to clear the frame rail
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Same shot in reverse, you can see where the brake linkage bends around the frame
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Next up is the wiring. I'm deathly afraid of this part. In the diagrams I see, it just shows a line connecting all the parts, but in reality there's a lot of wires involved in each of those connections. It's the T joints which puzzle me currently, what's the best way to connect branch off a wire from another wire? Here's a diagram for reference, in red I've circled the confusing element
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I mocked up where I'd like to lay things out, I wanted everything to be easily reachable. This seems pretty good to me. Where are you guys mounting your e advancers and capacitors? In this mockup the e advancer would just be hanging out between the carb manifold (it's hanging a little low in the picture but imagine the wire coming from the points cover draped atop the manifold with the advancer right after it.) Capacitor would go between the manifold and the mounting bolt to ground it out and hold it in place.
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I also got this fuseblock in my wiring kit, but the diagrams I've seen so far don't use this type of fuse setup.
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One diagram (pictured below) uses this type which appears to be very convenient, maybe this is how people are making those "T" joints with their wiring?
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Shoot, these arrived today and I realized they're actually 8mm. Is that the wrong size? The first ones we had talked about were 7mm. Not sure if it matters but if so I should send these back.
 
7 or 8 mm both are used on motorcycles. Your coil uses one size or the other, USE THE SIZE THAT FITS YOUR COIL. Your previous posts on wiring diagrams..........seems you're getting wiring blueprints confused with wiring diagrams. A blueprint (just not available to us) is much more specific than a diagram. A diagram gives the basic concept of the connections, reality can be different but still the basic paths are the same.

Scott
 
Yes, 7mm is the usual size we use, don't know if 8mm will fit in the coil or NGK plug caps. They look like resistor wires too, you don't want that. You want plain copper wire core wire. The wire should be labeled right on the side .....

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Not meaning to confuse the OP, but just to say to others.......In the 21st century here there are more advanced non-resistor, metallic core, sparkplug wires available. There are alloy non-resistor wires that have better resistance to corrosion and tarnish than the old Briggs and Stratton type of copper cored wires. Just want to make the point that when searching for this wire, metallic core need not be copper, better metallic core alloys with silicone insulation are now available, and they need not be expensive either. My NAPA sells a great version of this at a great price per foot, nice dark blue silicone, 7mm. I was selling this wire with NGK caps as a kit until my NGK source with a reasonable price dried up, I emptied the warehouse and they told me they would not re-order.

Scott
 
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Hey guys, long time since I made any posts in here as progress has slowed a bit with the kids getting ready to back to school which was today.

That said, I had a quick question about the fit of the spark plug boot over the spark plug. The NGK spark plug caps I ordered (below) don't seem to snug down onto the spark plugs. They fit over the end but it doesn't feel like they really lock into place. Did I order the wrong caps or something?

http://bit.ly/2by2Xrs
 
are the top of your plugs bare thread? (IE threaded cap removed) those caps need a thread only top spark plug
 
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