giddy! 71 within my grasp

blimey Twomany thats a lot of work :eek: Great post :thumbsup:

Thanx, peanut! What with the recent crop of 'unmolested, low mileage, original' early bikes popping up, I have concerns about members getting 'burned', or vice-versa. Also concerned that a possible 'restored/modified' bike may inadvertently become the standard against which others may be judged.

I dunno, maybe fussing over nothing. '70-'71s are unique enough to stand out on their own. Maybe others share this concern, maybe not. Angus, Vince, gggGary, 650Skull and others have gone through some effort to post good pics of these early models as examples of this genre, and I just wanted to add value to that work...
 
[/URL][/IMG]
IMG_0970_zps63626780.jpg

both fork lowers are the same. The chrome is very thin, and a bit of rust is showing.
It was stored in a shed for 25 years in Wash-ington state.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0971_zps6531fa52.jpg
    IMG_0971_zps6531fa52.jpg
    237.3 KB · Views: 3
I absolutely love the easy to take off tank. Anytime I have to do anything with my suzi marauder, its almost 15 minutes to get that tank off!
 
Yeah, that 'quick remove' tank is handy. Wait'll it's time to bleed the hydraulics!

Good pics. This is all rather exciting, seeing the genuine originality under that seat. The regulator wiring actually looks new. The edge piping of the seat cover and bent-down trim studs are genuine signs of originality. Note the unique smaller battery clearance depression in the seat pan. The seat-to-frame rubber bumpers still look new.

The rusty battery acid splatters reveal the unmolested originality. It's unfortunate that happens. Even Hondas of that period experienced that. Normally attributed to loose/lost/disconnected battery vent hose, there was another culprit. Period vent hoses came with mandated slits, and acid fumes would escape there, too.

Downward from the battery vent side is where most of the acid damage would occur, and you may want to pull the left aircleaner sidecover to inspect in there. Would expect to see some spots on the rectifier, side of the fender, side of the battery box, inner side of the airfilter box, and, most unfortunately, the top of the chainguard. Without that damage, it's easy to think that some restoration work might have been done there...
 
There are signs of battery acid behind the cover, but nothing that backing soda can't handle. I will also throw a pic of the prestine no rust air filter holders. Imo, the best looking filter holders I've ever seen.
I think that because it wasn't ridden very long, the battery acid wasn't an issue because it wasn't being ridden enuf to boil the acid out. I know this bike. I know it was baught new to be turned into a hill climber, but never happened. Life gets in the way. Fast forward twenty five years, here we are. I'm sure this is a untouched bike. Just forgotten in a shed.
 
Last edited:
[/URL][/IMG]
That's a 43 year old rotor showing good. lets see an aftermarket or re-wind lasting that long.
[/URL][/IMG]
too many, heres the cable guard that some time during the series run showd up. Now we need someone to find a 71 made just befor mine to pinpoint when it was added.
Notice the factory perfect bend on the lock washer for the output drive. teath are staright, not hooked, or pointed.
[/URL][/IMG]
ding on chaingaurd. the chain also has a clip type masrelink. is that stock? I will replace with a real link.
[/URL][/IMG]
here is the lettering of the inside of the left cover. too many said the early versions , the lettering was block-ier than later
[URL=http://s968.photobucket.com/user/angus-67/media/1971%
Side covers are near perfect for their age, albeit the small amount of battery acid on the left cover.
20xs1-b/IMG_0973_zps79edff93.jpg.html][ATTACH=full]304652[/ATTACH][/URL]
[/URL][/IMG]
Im currently going thru curley's charging guide , so, if I spot anything odd, that might need a looking, i'll be back.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0972_zps4d5a8e59.jpg
    IMG_0972_zps4d5a8e59.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_0975_zps7489ee60.jpg
    IMG_0975_zps7489ee60.jpg
    160.2 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_0976_zpsae67bd3e.jpg
    IMG_0976_zpsae67bd3e.jpg
    122.7 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_0979_zpseabb0114.jpg
    IMG_0979_zpseabb0114.jpg
    147.9 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_0981_zpsf8ef650b.jpg
    IMG_0981_zpsf8ef650b.jpg
    146.8 KB · Views: 3
Hey, Angus!

Good pic of the shiftshaft's chainguard. According to that list in post #38, that guard was implemented early in the XS1's production. What I find interesting on yours is the early onset of the chain gouging the rear of its metal top. Same scenario on mine. Yamaha must have noted this and at some point in the bike's production, that chainguard was modified to include a black plastic slipper atop the guard.

Ding on the chainguard is a mystery. I have similar markings on mine in that same area. AND, I recall seeing a pic some time back of another early model with the same/similar ding. Did we all have the same Yamaha mechanic that would inadvertently drop a wrench onto that same spot? Wierd.

Our '60s and early '70s Hondas came from the factory with clip-type drivechain masterlinks. It wasn't until somewhere in the early CB-750 production that we had to deal with those thicker/hardened 1-piece drivechains. So, I'd expect the early XS1's had masterlink type drivechains. Besides, the early service manuals show clip-type masterlinks for all the 70-74 models.

The '306' casting number inside your left engine cover is the same as mine. Somewhere in the middle of the '71's production, Yamaha started slipping XS2 parts into the assembly stream, like that type 'B' camchain tensioner system and the left engine cover. You should see 2 bosses at the bottom of that sidecover for the bottom mount screw, each for whichever engine case it would be fitted. Rear boss drilled out for the XS1B, front boss drilled for the starter-equipped XS2.

The 'blockyness' of the lettering I was referencing earlier applies to the 'YAMAHA' lettering that's embossed in the separate round rotor cover. It's unique to those early covers, with the '256' casting code. My '306' sidecover came with a matching later rotor cover, and I was curious about yours. My early-half production '71 has the '256' sidecover and matching 'blockier' '256' rotor cover.

Too bad about the acid spots atop your left aircleaner cover, but that is indeed genuine. Both my XS1Bs experienced that same malady.

Next time you have the fuel tank off, check the wire colors on your ignition coils. Should have brown&orange on one, and brown&grey on the other. As far as I know, the coil with the brown&grey wiring is difficult to find...
 
[/URL][/IMG]
this is a 1980 rotor cover......
[/URL][/IMG ...and this is a 71 cover. I do have the brown grey coil.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0985_zps65e996a9.jpg
    IMG_0985_zps65e996a9.jpg
    165 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_0984_zpsa7cca200.jpg
    IMG_0984_zpsa7cca200.jpg
    155.8 KB · Views: 3
so...running thru curley's charging guide, I obviously have a good rotor, but where he says to jump the green wire from the regulator to ground, that will give full power to the rotor. doing that, I still get no magnetism of rotor(failed slap test). I assume to jump the green wire not from the regulator, but the green wire that connects to the green wire in the plug that goes into the wiring harness? I have the other end grounded to the foot peg mounts. still no magnetism. battery is at 12.75volts.
And on the bosses on the left cover, I only have a boss at 10 o'clock. My 71 must be late in the series?
 
Angus, the 70-79 rotors are powered differently from the 80-83 rotors. Grounding the green works for the later systems, but doing that on the early ones would/should blow a fuse. On these, power is supplied by the regulator thru the green, to the rotor. The other brush (inner brush) is grounded.
 

Attachments

  • ChargingColor.jpg
    ChargingColor.jpg
    151.8 KB · Views: 151
Here's some more stuff on the regulator, excerpts from the manuals:
 

Attachments

  • XS1-XS1B-Schematic.jpg
    XS1-XS1B-Schematic.jpg
    139 KB · Views: 160
  • Regulator.jpg
    Regulator.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 177
  • RegulatorAdjusting.jpg
    RegulatorAdjusting.jpg
    110.5 KB · Views: 167
  • RegAdjust-1.jpg
    RegAdjust-1.jpg
    90.5 KB · Views: 155
That how to is different than my clymer.Po has original manual. I just have to get it. Is that were that is from? I did sand paper the contacts with 1000 grit, then rinsed with de-oxite. No joy. I will get original manual tomorow. Prolly just needs adj.
I have to take him to dmv tomorow to transfer title. It was last registered in 1992. Title is long gone, but assures me he is the only one on the title. A guy at work has bought bikes with lost titles and says its easy.
 
Yeah. There's a 70-74 combined manual that's best for your bike.
It's downloadable, but the paper one is better.

Here's a quick diagnostic. Find that regulator connector in front of the battery. It'll have 3 wires, brown (ignition hot), green (power to rotor brush), black (ground). Leave it connected, and just probe into it.

The black wire should show a good ground connection.
When you switch on ignition:
The brown wire should go hot.
- If not, there's a problem with the brown wire power.
The green wire should go hot.
- If not, there's a problem in the regulator.
The green wire connection to the outer rotor brush should go hot.
- If not, there's a problem with the green wire in the harness, maybe in the alternator connector.

The inner rotor brush should show a good ground connection...
 
Last edited:
Your 71 stator cover looks like my 71's cover, a '306' version to match the engine cover. Same as used on the XS2. Only way to know for sure is to check the casting number on its backside...
 
its mine now. Took pal to dmv, and did what they asked. He gifted it to me, and I gave them 80$
Went to the bank, pulled $3,000, gave it to greg. Went back to his garage, and rummaged around for parts for the project bike. Two rotors(not checked yet) 1 stator, reg/rec. Gaskets. new ignition switch, and a bucket of nut, bolts, and doo-dads.
Happy camper.
 
Fantastic news!! Glad to hear that final hurdle is taken care of. I just went down and transferred mine too...ouch! Big taxes, permanent plate fee, etc. That's ok it's well worth it.

I just have to make sure they send me the original cancelled title back after they get state permission to do so. I've done it before but it takes a bit of time. I want that piece of history to display with the bike. :):thumbsup:
 
Hey, hey! Congrats Angus!

Now, whatcha gotta do to celebrate is drink a 6-pack of boilermakers, then run head first into a brick wall.


There. That'll knock you back into 1971. Welcome to the club...
 
Back
Top