Ignition coil replacement

Because it is a 1980 XS? You looked at the build date and saw 1979 but it was later in the year, like AUGUST. This is when the line changed over to the 1980 model year.

Of course this is just a guess.

Tom
 
Tomterrific said:
Because it is a 1980 XS? You looked at the build date and saw 1979 but it was later in the year, like AUGUST. This is when the line changed over to the 1980 model year.

Of course this is just a guess.

Tom
Click to expand...

All my dmv paperworks, etc. All indicate 1979, but you might be correct.
 
Different year engines, ignitions, charging components, carbs are all "kind of interchangeable" on the XS650 and these bikes are old, titles are easy in California, who knows what part came from where on your bike. By the way is the charging sytem working correctly? The TCI ignition is fussy about a nice clean 12 volts. your brush holders show evidence of a builder who didn't REALLY understand the charging system.... (a few too many nylon screws. a "random" voltage regulator), pretty high odds something is not quite "hoyle" in the charging system. If voltages are out of spec more "failures" of ignition components are likely. What kind of and how big of a battery are you running? Place a priority on cleaning up the wiring under the seat if you don't want more unscheduled repairs. There are some great "simplified" wiring diagrams in the tech section here.
I get on my high horse a bit now and then but do want your bike to be a joy, not a pain.
 
gggGary said:
Different year engines, ignitions, charging components, carbs are all "kind of interchangeable" on the XS650 and these bikes are old, titles are easy in California, who knows what part came from where on your bike. By the way is the charging sytem working correctly? The TCI ignition is fussy about a nice clean 12 volts. your brush holders show evidence of a builder who didn't REALLY understand the charging system.... (a few too many nylon screws. a "random" voltage regulator), pretty high odds something is not quite "hoyle" in the charging system. If voltages are out of spec more "failures" of ignition components are likely. What kind of and how big of a battery are you running? Place a priority on cleaning up the wiring under the seat if you don't want more unscheduled repairs. There are some great "simplified" wiring diagrams in the tech section here.
I get on my high horse a bit now and then but do want your bike to be a joy, not a pain.
Click to expand...


I greatly appreciate the all info you and everyone else has given and provided. As for the battery, it's an Everest one, I honestly can't see a model or specs on it. I even lifted and inspected it, can't find anything. But the warning label in the back and brand's name in the front.

The entire electrical system has been my main priority since the beginning. First getting this coil issue fixed then getting the wiring cleaned up as best as possible.
 
If your battery is about 5.27x6.53x3.5 it's a stock size battery. If it's smaller then asa long as it's kick start only then it will be fine.
As others have said, most of the parts can be swapped year to year as long as you do it right. Like your engine may have come from the factory with a points ignition, it's not hard to swap in the later TCI. The TCI is a good ignitiopn that is pretty much a set and forget deal. You never need to adjust or change points. that makes the maintanance much easier.
I also looked at your pics and can tell the builder didn't really understand just how the alternator functions. There are three nylon screws on the brushes. The 80 up stator that yours is doesn'y need the nylon screws. Neither brush is was grounded in the stock 80 up system.
The XS1100 coil that was on there may have a different part number than an XS650 coil but the XS1100 used a very simular TCI and used a 2.5 ohm primary coil. Being a four cylinder it used two coils. Kinda like they just put two twins side by side.
You could shop around ebay and find a coil from m ost any two or four cylinder Yamaha of about the same years, 80 up, and it will probably work just fine. The stock coils won't be as hot as the ones from Mike's so they will only be a fix, not an upgrade.
Leo
 
"The stock coils won't be as hot as the ones from Mike's so they will only be a fix, not an upgrade.
Leo"

I thought I read in a past thread that the "Green Monster" coil had issues. Is the one shown in post #35, (Mikes), the "Green Monster"? I'm still searching posts to find what I thought i read. I want to get one that'll last a while. Not sure that lifetime correlates with oomph tho'.
 
The green monster coil has a 75K + output. If you unhook a plug wire this voltage can't go to a plug like it should and will if given the chance will find it's own way to complete the circuit. Often through the insulation to ground.
The Ultimate Coil even with the 85k+ output has better insulation and is less prone to this type of damage.
Even a low output stock coil will do this if left that way very long.
I have been running the Green Monster coil for a few years now with no trouble. The hot spark lets me gap the plugs wider. This makes the coil voltage rise a bit higher before the spark occurs, this make the spark hotter and larger. The bike starts easy, runs well and makes just a bit more power.
I am running a set of 82 BS34 carbs jetted one up on pilots, one up on the mains and could go up one more. I get about 56 mpg on an average cruise. A bigger main jet may give me better WOT response. It doesn't pull as well as the BS38 carbs with two over mains.
Leo
 
Thanks for the input everyone, I'm currently waiting for my new coil ignition in the mail from Mikesxs. Updates will be up soon as well.
 
Another question for you guys, here the ignition coil. Which wire is the (+) and (-) lead. One is Orange, the other is Red/White. I assume the Red/White is positive lead correct? Just want to verify. Thanks!

8206552786_e9f2cea29f.jpg
 
The Accel coil has a 3 ohm primary, so it should be fine, a bit costly, but work fine.
On a dual output coil the primary side isn't polarity sensitive. So either wire can be positive.
The coil in your pic, that's the XS1100 coil right? The stock coils like that one the red/white was power from the engine stop switch and the orange went to the TCI box.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
The Accel coil has a 3 ohm primary, so it should be fine, a bit costly, but work fine.
On a dual output coil the primary side isn't polarity sensitive. So either wire can be positive.
The coil in your pic, that's the XS1100 coil right? The stock coils like that one the red/white was power from the engine stop switch and the orange went to the TCI box.
Leo
Click to expand...

Correct thats the XS1100 coil that is currently on my bike. The dual output coil I ordered on Mikesxs says "wire red/white wire from engine harness to positive lead on coil".

Just verifying if its the red/white wire on the XS1100 coil. That I wire to the positive lead on the Mikesxs dual output coil.
 
Yes, kinda. The red/white is power to the coil from the harness. On the new coil it may not be marked with a positive or negitive. As I said earlier a dual output coil has no positive or negative. So when you install the new coil just hook one wire to the red/white from the harness, the other to the orange to the TCI box.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
Yes, kinda. The red/white is power to the coil from the harness. On the new coil it may not be marked with a positive or negitive. As I said earlier a dual output coil has no positive or negative. So when you install the new coil just hook one wire to the red/white from the harness, the other to the orange to the TCI box.
Leo
Click to expand...


Sounds good, will do! Thanks.
 
Alright guys, so upon inspecting the current coil ignition and plug wiring today. I found out the spark plug wire wasnt even connected properly to the plug cap. It just sat inside without a terminal connector, so no solid connection. Anyway, I was able to reconnect the plug wire with a proper terminal connector into the plug cap And fired it up, but would stall/die within a minute or less. Tried it several times, but basically same symptoms as before. I'm back to square one again. Until I install the new coil ignition

So at the same time today, my new coil arrived today. But was damaged upon opening it. :( Now I have to send it back for a new replacement. Just another delay but, sh*t happens. So I will have to wait again before I can install the new replacement coil.
 
If you look into the cap where the wire goes you should see a mall screw sticking up out of the bottom of the hole. To attach the cap to the wire, trim about 1/8 inch of the insulation off, bend the wire strands in a star burst pattern Now screw the cap onto the wire.
If you put a metal terminal on the plug wire and just pushed the cap on you won't get a good connection. Perhaps you have a bad plug cap.
Leo
 
I will certainly try that, I'm also waiting for new plug caps in the mail as well.

Also, what's the proper way to wire the other end of the spark plug wire that goes to the dual output coil? Do I use a specific terminal connector, or do I do the same by bending the strands in a start burst shape? Thanks
 
Last edited:
Alright guys, so a new replacement is on it's way. It should arrive in a day or so, customer service has been excellent too. So I currently have new spark plugs, plug wires, and plug caps.

I still need some input on how I should be connecting the plug wire to the dual output coil. Via a female terminal connector? Or flare open the wire strands on both ends, one to the plug cap and other to the dual output coil?
 
Depending on the coil you get determines how the plug wires hook up. Some coils, the plug wires get metal terminals put on then plug into the coil.
Some of them are the same as the plug caps. A small screw is down inside, you trim the cover back a bit, flare the wires out, screw the wire into the coil then seal them to the coil with the o-ring and screw on cap.
The plug caps screw on.
Leo
 

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