You want the 1.5" ones. They fit the headpipes perfectly without the need for those reducers (which always leak).
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It's time to start a winter Project. The Red Bike
- Thread starter Kevin Werner
- Start date
This is how tight the back oil drain plug is. I will enlist help holding the bike because this just moves the bike around on the center stand.
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jpdevol
Hacker of Frames,Wires and other things
Harder hammer
No harder hammer the one I have hurts the knuckle plenty...Harder hammer
jpdevol
Hacker of Frames,Wires and other things
No really. The shock imparted by a steel hammer will overcome the "stiction" - "cold-welding" as Gary calls it. Actually easier blow than with soft mallet. Them wrenches are meant to be wacked. If that doesn't do it right away, smack the drain-plug straight on with the steel hammer - as if it were a nail - and try tapping the wrench again. 
6 point socket and breaker bar. block up the socket so it can't drop off, use a big maul. one swing, that is all.
jpdevol
Hacker of Frames,Wires and other things
In my world, "hammer mechanic" is not derogatory. lol
Why does the presence of a "big maul" in the SOIR not surprise me
Just say'in....
Why does the presence of a "big maul" in the SOIR not surprise me
Just say'in....
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I use an impact.
In my world, "hammer mechanic" is not derogatory. lol
Why does the presence of a "big maul" in the SOIR not surprise me
Just say'in....View attachment 222275
Hammers you say?
To a boy with a hammer, all the world is a nail!
Btw, I always used a long box end wrench and popped it with my orange dead blow hammer to take drain plugs out. Never had to hit them more than once.
It's getting them out the first time that's usually the issue, when the P.O. never changed the drain plug washer and just kept making the plug tighter and tighter to try to seal it. Mine all come out easy now with just a wrench or ratchet because the seal washers are good and the plugs don't need to be installed that tight.
Make yourself a hammer nobody wants to steal. 3/4” rebar handle, ribbed for her pleasure
I pulled out the big guns, 3 hits did it. I bow to you masters.
Dropping the oil is the last step to jack it up so I am not tempted to ride it with out a front brake. Then a steady work list. I will learn about the clutch pushrod seal, left side case drips oil. And, the case needs polishing. Forks and steering bearings. Swingarm pivot. Exhaust , tins etc.
Dropping the oil is the last step to jack it up so I am not tempted to ride it with out a front brake. Then a steady work list. I will learn about the clutch pushrod seal, left side case drips oil. And, the case needs polishing. Forks and steering bearings. Swingarm pivot. Exhaust , tins etc.
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...or maybe check the screen when it cools off then jack it up.
Or didn't know to open the rear drain plug... I warmed it pretty good in the garage and went through the gears several times on the centerstand. Then dropped the oil. The oil was good and hot. I will fish out the washers and if they are solid copper I will torch them to cherry and quench them and reuse them.
The originals were similar to a spark plug washer, several thin folds of copper. Once they're mashed flat, they're done for, annealing isn't bringing them back. My favorite drain plug washers are the red bakelite ones included in the Athena full gasket kit. They last darn near forever. I have one on the rear plug of each bike. The one has been in service for probably a good dozen years, still good, still seals.
Aircraft Spruce has nice ones. They’re listed someplace on this forum. Seals, that is.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/engine-oil-plug-crush-washer.61231/#post-728755
They can get mashed pretty thin, some thick solid copper chincom washers go in on my wake up drill.
Thanks all. These were the cotton filled compressible (once) so I will go with new. Someone here recommended buying plenty, and I did.
But.... I dropped the sump plate and the screen is flopping so I need to get a new screen before I button it up and put it on the lift. I seem to be ahead of the game on a "Winter Project" but delays alway show up.
Many of us prefer to patch up originals. Personally, I think they're made better than those new replacements. And those new ones tear out too, in the same spot. I put a new one in when I first started running my '78 and at the first oil change, I found it torn, lol. But, that was before the topic was discussed here and the conclusion reached that what tears them is forcing cold, thick oil through them too quickly. You need to be sure the motor is warmed up and the oil thinned some before revving it too high. Since I've been taking it easy on it until it's warmed up, I haven't had any more torn filter issues to speak of.
