Today I will slather them in Aircraft Stripper (not for use on aircraft) after I remove and bag the rubber bits and fasteners.A medium (maroon) Roloc disc will remove the casting flash and flaws .....
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I got the front hub flanges to a pretty decent polished state and decided the center would get paint. Warning- more dumb-assery ahead. So I got out the "Machinery Grey" (Who knows why I have a 3/4 full can) and shot the hub center. Fixated on the center I missed some overspray on the spoke flange. 1st dumb-assery move. Now, the paint is cured and I attack the overspray with, A buffing wheel to make really shiny machinery grey, B 400grit to leave too many scratches, and finally C steel wool. Notice two Dumb assery move there?
It gets better. The front engine mount always seems look, well, worn. This is a full fender build so it came off weeks ago and this week I cleaned it up, dusted it off and shot a coat of gloss black. I saw "fish eyes" immediately so Dumb-assery move waited 15 minutes and reshot the part. More fisheyes. Waited a day, sanded it down, wipe it down with acetone and re shot it. Better. I hope I have expended all the dumb-assery for the entire forum and you all can go on with projects and never make dumb mistakes. Pics soon. Still cleaning u0 the edges, then new polishing.View attachment 227950
Thanks. The fender will be painted so I will try my hand at a bright finish on the sliders.Wiping down with lots of acetone (softens clear coat) then going at them with a dico wheel works for me.
some mineral spirits when using the dico wheel keeps dust down seems to improve speed of work.
Orange Dico for bad corrosion, blue for final step then a bit of blue magic will give a factory like brushed finish.
before after on the CB valve cover.
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Thanks Mikey. We all share this foolishness. I will continue to try and remember to share my mistakes. Victories are built on losses and all that shit... Bullshit. I have learned learned a ton of information on this site and have followed much of it. But, I was illustrating what happens with short cuts for which I am GUILTY. Hopefully we all have a laugh at foolishness I display.Stupid is as stupid does
If you can't laugh at your mistakes it'll just make a guy miserable
May you never make another lol
I would call Michael at 650 Central. He’ll get you the right rotor with correct spacers.I had earlier in another thread asked about drilling rotors. One response was just get a Brembo rotor for $295. Anybody have input on this rotor?
https://yamahaxs650.com/product/high-performance-disc-brake-rotors/#iLightbox[]/0
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...?fits-motorcycle=Yamaha/XS650/all-models/1981
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You just saved me a the difference, Brembo $295, /yamahaxs650 $146 with shipping. Though I do still have feelers out to resurface and drill the original disc, I would be surprised if that machine work came in under $150.Hmm...this rotor came on the 80SG that I used for the tracker - works well - I thought it was an EBC.
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Yeah, but you lose the panache of the "brand"You just saved me a the difference, Brembo $295, /yamahaxs650 $146 with shipping. Though I do still have feelers out to resurface and drill the original disc, I would be surprised if that machine work came in under $150.
I'll paint my caliper red...Yeah, but you lose the panache of the "brand"
Are those all 298mm with the same bolt pattern and offset?
They do need a spacer.Are those all 298mm with the same bolt pattern and offset?
the later Yamaha rotors
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A mike's rotor with a homemade rotor spacer, I find "spacing in" the caliper, um repulsive.
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I used a slotted rotor from an XS1100 special on "some XS" but can't find a pic.
The rotors on the specials were thinner than the one's used on the standards.
This drilled stocker from the @grizld1 stash, yours for the shipping. $15ish?
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I chucked it in the lathe a moment ago and it looks true. I'll run a flap disk on it to clean up the swept area. Rust removal and fresh paint for the center section on you.
A bit of paint can visually lighten the front end and give it a different appearance.
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