Mikeys new to him 81

I don't have the instructions so I'm not sure what these said. I always break the tang off by rotating ccw until it snaps off.
 
I've always broken the tang off with a breakoff punch but maybe you could remove it with the slotted T-handle install tool like they say (turn 90°)? I've never used that style of install tool so can't say for sure.
 
I've just ordered 4 new studs and then took a look at OEM crown nuts and like wow I'm not paying those prices
I'll check at the local hardware store to find some
 
Unfortunately, aftermarket replacements don't look the same, they're taller .....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8H9HZV...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

AftermarketAcorns.jpg
 
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Yeah the illusive short crown nut in stainless. But the long ones work OK It's the m8 with 13mm hex that are a pain.
 
Well the missing studs are on the right hand covers
One missing studs location the threads look good the other one most of the threads are gone except right at the bottom
So I'll need the kit like Jim has posted ( www.amazon.com/XT-AUTO-Stainless-Compatible-Repairing ) drill out the bad one with supplied drill bit blow out debris insert helicoil break off the bottom tang and then insert new stud with locktite
Sounds pretty straight foreword to me
 

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Yeah the illusive short crown nut in stainless. But the long ones work OK It's the m8 with 13mm hex that are a pain.
I'll just buy 8 new crown nuts so they'll all be the same and save the others for spares
 
drill out the bad one with supplied drill bit blow out debris insert helicoil break off the bottom tang and then insert new stud with locktite
Sounds pretty straight foreword to me
Drill out what's left of the old threads. This "sizes" it for the special sized tap.
Re-tap the hole threads.
Run the helicoil down (with red loctite) until it bottoms.
Turn the tool back out a half a turn... this breaks the installation tang off.
Remove the tool and broke off tang.
Install new stud with red loctite....
Done.
 
Drill out what's left of the old threads. This "sizes" it for the special sized tap.
Re-tap the hole threads.
Run the helicoil down (with red loctite) until it bottoms.
Turn the tool back out a half a turn... this breaks the installation tang off.
Remove the tool and broke off tang.
Install new stud with red loctite....
Done.
I guess it would make sense to use locktite on the helicoil
I would have missed that step Thanks !!
Off to the hardware store for some crown nuts
Edit: I take it I want to use some kind of lube when tapping out the hole threads and then clean it out with like carb cleaner or something ?
 
Drill out what's left of the old threads. This "sizes" it for the special sized tap.
Re-tap the hole threads.
Run the helicoil down (with red loctite) until it bottoms.
Turn the tool back out a half a turn... this breaks the installation tang off.
Remove the tool and broke off tang.
Install new stud with red loctite....
Done.
Ok maybe one last question
Put in the helicoil with the red locktite ( don't need the locktite to cure? before rotating the tool half a turn or just bottom out the helicoil and turn it 1/2 turn ccw and not wait for the locktite to cure
I know simple question but for me ...
Learn it right once and I'm good to go in the future
 
Rotor should be ready to ship back in the next day or so. I'll just hold onto it until you give me the word.
I'm just getting the kit you recommended
By the time I pay return shipping to get you yours back to you I can buy the kit and have spares for next time
Thanks for the offer though!!
 
No you shouldn't need to wait for a cure. When you turn the tool ccw, it's expands the helicoil and fixes it in place while you break the tang off. If for some odd reason the helicoil starts to back out along with the tool, stop and let the loctite cure. Never seen that happen but I know some people "claim" that happened to them. I'm skeptical of that though, it's always worked fine for me.
Soon as you break the tab off, more loctite and tighten the stud in place. Done.
 
OK Mikey.... just did a little research and apparently the old style I used in the aviation world are different from the ones we're looking at now. On these you're getting, you're supposed to stick a punch in there and knock the tang off that way.
Thinking back, I don't recall which method I used on these I have now. I was thinking I just turned it backwards like I was taught and did for 50+ yrs in the airplane world... but maybe not. If the directions say to use the punch.... then use the punch.
 
I don't imagine it'll be an issue on this particular job, but do measure the length of the insert and the depth of the hole before starting to insure the insert will thread all the way in - so the insert should be shorter. The finished insert must be below the surface of the hole (by a mm or so). if it sticks out some, problems could ensue as the insert can get damaged on assembly, etc.

I can't remember if that particular hole is blind or not; if it is, leaving the tang may not be an issue (the stud will take care of it). Preferable to remove it though

Mikey - you got this!;)
 
OK... so, jus' wanted to make sure I wasn't smokin' some weird shit....
I went ahead and ran a helicoil into an old rocker box. Drilled, tapped.... ran the helicoil in until it seated. Turned the insertion tool backwards, the helicoil locked into place and about a half a turn (ccw) later the tang snapped off just like it's always done for me. No punch needed. Ymmv.

Like JP says, stick something in the hole and mark it for depth. Transfer that mark to the drill bit and the tap. No, I don't use oil for tapping aluminum... at least not for just one hole.
The hardest part of this Mikey is keeping the drill bit and tap perpendicular to the surface. Other than that, it's a piece of cake.



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