Need Help. Rear drum brake pivot threaded or clean through?

crazyorigin

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I am new to xs650's and road bikes in general and recently acquired a basket case xs650 that is missing some parts. One was the rear brake pivot/adjuster/I am not sure what its called. I made some with a spike tip on the outside and need to know if this part is tapped for threads or drilled clean through? I have seen it both ways on mini bikes and other off road type vehicles from when I was a kid. Here is a pic of what I made to help you better understand, it is what the threaded rod goes through on the rear drum brakes actuation lever. Thank you for any help.

IMG_20131220_242344_813.jpg
 
No, it's not threaded, just a clean hole through it like you have. The adjustment is done on the threaded rod that passes through it.
 
It's clean through with a shoulder and a split pin to retain it

no what you are talking about is at the front that uses a clevis pin, he's asking about the rear the extended barrel of the adjustment nut keeps the anchor block centered in the brake pivot arm lever
 

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Thank you very much for the reply. It will be much easier to just drill these out larger than it will be to tap them. I may try to tap a few to see if it would allow me to get rid of the rear adjuster nut and clean up the rear end a bit.
 
That would make adjustment of the rear brake very difficult and a long, drawn out affair. Why re-invent the wheel? You need a quick and easy adjustment method because often adjusting the chain requires a tweak to the brake adjustment.
 
If you've got to customize back there, make a fancy adjuster nut that replaces the original to go with what you've already made. Make it pointy somewhere... Would be cool if you could turn it by hand, wing nut style.
 
It may make adjustments difficult but it shouldn't ever loosen up or creep, you could adjust it by removing the front pin and rotating and reassembling. Yes it would be harder but I may tinker with it anyway. I will make some both ways but probably just a few that are threaded to mess with. I have never been able to leave well enough alone if I had the means to make it different and do a nice job at it. Most drum brakes I have messed with almost never needed adjustment after they were broken in.
 
The nut doesn't creep because it is "notched" to fit the pin, you push the brake arm forward adjust the nut release. I'm with xj on this one make a fancy spiked nut with a couple of flats.
Usually you just use your fingers to adjust the stock nut.
 
I see the adjuster nut itself is cupped out for the radius of the piece I had to replace. I doubt it would ever move also with the spring tension on it. We will see what I end up with I am just always trying to figure out ways to modify things.
 
I think not having a rusty adjuster nut behind this nice stainless spike would look better than having a rusty nut there. I can't say it would be better but it really wouldn't be much worse. I am not into stock stuff, little details like that all over a bike can add up for a very unique overall package.
 
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