Rear Wheel movement

doctavee

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Sacramento, Ca transplant from New Bedford, Ma
my rear wheel seems to have a little play in it, when my brake is depressed it seems to click and the brake almost locks up. i have to usually rock it back and thatll loosen the shoes in the drum. when or if i try and tighten the axle it will over tighten the wheel and wont spin freely. my question is to all of you is, do i need new bearings? im not missing any spacers or washers according to clymers manual
 
Don't ride that bike. You have two different issues to sort out. One, the spacers and bearings, something's really wrong or missing if you can't tighten the axle. Two, you should address the condition of the brake parts. Show us some pictures.

Scott
 
Try loosening the crown nut, then step on the rear brake pedal while retightening the crown nut......kinda like doing the hockey pockey and Twister to get it done. I read sometime ago that it helps to settle in the rear brake shoes and components or something like that. I do it now anytime I have the rear tire off......might work OR you may need new bearings.
 
Yes, it could be totally shot bearings but you may also be missing a part and not realize it. There's sort of a "hidden" combination spacer/bushing on these rear wheels. It is part #20 in the drawing below and fits into the back side of the left bearing .....

RearWheelBearings.jpg


The left bearing has an I.D. of 25mm. Your axle is 20mm. The bushing portion of part #20 sleeves the bearing I.D. down to 20mm so it fits on your axle correctly. There is a lip on the back side of the part. That combines with spacer #7 to properly space the bearings apart. Without it, the wheel will bind up when you tighten the axle.

Honestly, I don't know how anyone could install their rear wheel without this part and not immediately realize something was wrong. First, the axle would be very loose and sloppy in that left bearing. Then, as soon as you tightened the axle, the wheel would get all bound up. I suppose it's possible someone put part #20 in backwards, with the lip on the outside. The wheel would then fit the axle OK but would still bind up when tightened.
 
+1. Don't ride till you sort this out. A locked rear wheel is darned dangerous.
 
what they say. you can see that spacer that 5t talks about from the outside of the sprocket side bearing.

DSCN6778.JPG


also look though to confirm the central spacer is in place.

DSCN6782.JPG


Another "possible" is the cam plate on the brake pivot shaft can be installed backwards, this causes the shoes to be offset and they then bind on the inside of the brake backing plate when the axle is tightened. This one is "as found" but you can see how the cam plate fits around the cam when installed correctly.

DSCN6780.JPG
DSCN6779.JPG
 
Also note in last pic that one brake lining has fallen off, the other is ready to depart. This is fairly common 'specially if the bike sat out in the wet.
 
thanks for the input guys, going to pull the rear wheel as soon as i get another jack ( for some dumb reason i didn't ship my motorcycle jack when i moved across the country ) i wish i could post videos via my phone on the forum so i apologize for not a posting video.
 
Try loosening the crown nut, then step on the rear brake pedal while retightening the crown nut......kinda like doing the hockey pockey and Twister to get it done. I read sometime ago that it helps to settle in the rear brake shoes and components or something like that. I do it now anytime I have the rear tire off......might work OR you may need new bearings.
hey what would holding the brake down and re tightening the crown nut do? its not really as if the brake will hold position when tightening the crown nut
 
Hey TM, I don't think it was in a chain tension thread but it's been a while. That link kinda adds to it though. Thanks for posting............. As long as I don't forget how to put my food in my mouth I think I'll be fine..........lol
 
thanks for the input guys, going to pull the rear wheel as soon as i get another jack ( for some dumb reason i didn't ship my motorcycle jack when i moved across the country ) i wish i could post videos via my phone on the forum so i apologize for not a posting video.

Hi doc,
ain't your bike got a centerstand? If it was you that took it off at least now you know why that was a foolish thing to do.
If you are bitched for a jack, use the one in your car.
 
I have two small floor jacks that I trust to use often. I've had many V twins on those jacks for tire changes, even with both wheels off. I do like to have someone be around when lowering them, as a "spotter".

Scott
 
Hi doc,
ain't your bike got a centerstand? If it was you that took it off at least now you know why that was a foolish thing to do.
If you are bitched for a jack, use the one in your car.
no dice man though mrtwo wheel has a great idea with those stands I'm gonna try mine.. i dont have a car jack either. i left all my tools back east when i moved and slowly rebuilding
 
I've always thought the brake shoe cam can work both ways, not even the clymers say that its a one way...
It varies by year, older cams are a non-symmetric shape, one way, later are symmetric and can activate either way. try to pull an old cam backward and you will get very abrupt braking action. "Clymers doesn't say" LOL
 
Yes, here's an early "one-way" cam. Note two of the corners on the cam are more pointed, two more rounded. The round ones should activate the brake shoes when the brake arm is pulled forward .....

EarlyCam.jpg
 
no dice man though mrtwo wheel has a great idea with those stands I'm gonna try mine.. i dont have a car jack either. i left all my tools back east when i moved and slowly rebuilding
Doc,
you don't even have the pathetic little scissor jack that comes with the car?
Ah well, if you don't, you don't.
Tell you where to get a jack real cheap. ($2 Canadian where I live)
Your nearest wrecker's yard.
There's one the trunk of 95% of the cars in there along with a lug-wrench and a mini-spare.
 
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