The sickness is contagious...

Re. clamp type stabilizers, most use 6 mm. stainless steel fasteners with max 7 ftlbs. of torque specified, though I usually stop at 6. I've used Daytona stabilizers for almost 30 years, no damage.

Re. bluing, single wall pipes will blue even when the carbs are jetted well. I used a Kerker 2-1 for a season many years ago and had the same trouble that I had with a MAC 2-1: they both ground asphalt at the 2nd bend in even moderately aggressive cornering. Never again.
 
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Hugh is still advertising his...............They are made, and look heavier, because they do not, and cannot be used with a front guard.

Mikes XS fork-braces are used in conjunction with the front guard. Yamaha 77-83/4 front guards are well braced and have extra bracing on the underside of the front guard so the MikesXS front brace, i would suggest is a match, or maybe better than Hughs in regard to its effectiveness.
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Are you sure? On his site they are out of stock and in September of last year made a post about doing a big run and potentially not making anymore.
 
Been on there since way be fore I owned madness and that's over ten years. Gratuitous live ferry shot lol
10 years, well that's a good indication. I might have to make an aluminium clamp on one like that then. I did make a tubular one similar to MikesXS, I made it to fit over the guard and support the guard, but found it very difficult to fit between the fork legs.
 
I've been running my ATK even longer, since 2008. And before that, it spent quite a few years on my SR500. No issues with damaging the forks. I've never even heard of that happening before.
 
And you haven't heard of it happening yet, 5T! The possibility of clamp-on braces breaking the sliders was pure speculation, no observation involved.

Folks, fitting a fork brace of any kind has to be very carefully done. It takes very little push or pull to apply enough drag to interfere with fork action in a very serious way.
 
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I believe this style brace is easier to install without introducing stiction. Tarozzi and Omar’s have similar.
I'm a paint and body guy by profession so eye appeal means a lot to me, not at the expense of function, but it's important. That is the best looking one currently available IMHO. Trim and clean.
 
I'm plenty cranky too, TW. Toglhot, when you remove the front fender you also remove the bracing that it provides. My primary reason to install a brace would be safety.

46th, I don't really have a preference, all kinds of things work. I'm using a Daytona brand fork stabilizer that I bought on clearance around 1993. It clamps onto the dust caps on the sliders. I was skeptical about how well that would work, but it's done a good job for many years.

Whatever you use, correct installation is critical. With no fender or brace on the forks, jack up the bike so that the front end hangs free and install a zip tie around the fork tube. Push it down so that it contacts the dust cover. Then lower the bike, level it with blocks under the rear of the swingarm, and gently climb on, assume riding position, and climb off. Then raise the bike again with the front end hanging free. Measure the distance from zip tie to dust cover and record the number. Label it FLS (free laden sag).

If you're using a fender, install it and repeat the exercise above. If laden sag with fender (label it LSF) is over 3 mm. less than FLS (that's a personal standard, you may be more tolerant, and yes the pun's intended), shim or bend to relieve pressure. If you're using a fork stabilizer alone or with fender, do the above and file, bend, shim or do whatever needs to be done to keep forks from sticking. As an example, with the Daytona fork stabilizer I have to attach two layers of electrical tape to the middle piece to keep the fork sliders from being pulled together and creating a bind. Just that little bit of plastic tape makes a 10 mm. difference in laden sag.
Thank you for giving a realistic installation procedure. It is simple to bolt one up and forget the nuances of why it is there.
 
I have seen a fork brace formed much the same as the early model guard mount. but being made of hooped 3mm steel I have doubts as to it's efficacy. I made a steel tube one from tube that sat over the top of the guard, similar to MikesXS. I was going to do away with the standard guard mount and weld tabs on the brace, but after I made the thing it was difficult to get it in place without removing the wheel and sliding it from the bottom up. I still have it somewhere, but I won't be using it, they're not real pretty.
After reading Gary's post, I might make an aluminium clamp on style brace. The seal area on my forks is somewhat damaged I might be able to make the brace clamps so they incorporate the seal keeper spring, it's broken on my forks.
 
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