Hi everyone, let me start by saying thank you for my oil sump question. Here’s another. Does anyone have a torque sheet made already. I have a Hanes manual and it’s very vague. There isn’t a page that has a consolidated torque value, it’s all in the paragraph mixed in.
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Torque bolts???
- Thread starter Scott73
- Start date
Well Marty you beat me to it
I was looking for the right thread .....
WTH I'll just bookmark it and save it for my self too
Thanks !!
I was looking for the right thread .....
WTH I'll just bookmark it and save it for my self too
Thanks !!
I copied it from an @5twins post.
Sir you are a gentleman and a scholar.
I’ve got you fooled.
Somewhere at the front of the Factory Service Manual, clean, dry threads are specified. I’m sorry I neglected to add that.
Yes, this is my favorite torque chart because the values are given in ranges. Most of the other years give single values and that's no good for things like the axles and swingarm pivot shaft. With the axles, the chances are slim to none that the cotter pin holes are going to be aligned when you reach that single value spec. I never torqued my axles, just made them "good 'n tight", but once I found these range specs, I did check them. I made them my usual tightness then checked to see if they at least met the minimum value of their spec range, and they did. So, I don't actually know how tight they are, but they do meet the minimum spec so I'm happy.
On the other part I mentioned, the swingarm pivot bolt, it's also nice to have a range. I start at the minimum (about 36) and tighten the nut a few pounds more at a time until the bare arm just drops slowly under it's own weight. On the TX750 arms I have on both my 650s, that happened around 42 to 45 ft/lbs.
Since I anti-seize all my fasteners and I know you should use less torque on lubed ones, I usually stick to near or at the minimum value in the ranges given.
There are a couple values in the chart I stray from. I make the large acorn head nuts 28 to 30 ft/lbs and the front sprocket nut 94 ft/lbs.
On the other part I mentioned, the swingarm pivot bolt, it's also nice to have a range. I start at the minimum (about 36) and tighten the nut a few pounds more at a time until the bare arm just drops slowly under it's own weight. On the TX750 arms I have on both my 650s, that happened around 42 to 45 ft/lbs.
Since I anti-seize all my fasteners and I know you should use less torque on lubed ones, I usually stick to near or at the minimum value in the ranges given.
There are a couple values in the chart I stray from. I make the large acorn head nuts 28 to 30 ft/lbs and the front sprocket nut 94 ft/lbs.
I noted that the Clymer manual calls for oil on the M10 head nuts, which is effectively increasing that torque.
I bought a stainless steel engine kit from AlloyBoltz in Florida. They call for anti-seize on all stainless hardware. They included new torque spec’s accordingly. I thought that a nice touch.
That's interesting. Could you maybe list some of them, the ones for the common size fasteners we use most, like the M6 and M8? I've been gradually reducing the torque I use on anti-seized M6 fasteners over the last few years. I used to do them at 80 in/lbs but have dropped that down to around 70-72 now. Nothing has come loose with this lesser setting, and the oil pan and right side cover still seal up nicely. Dry spec on an M6 fastener is usually 5 to 8 ft/lbs., so I'm still in the range, just closer to it's minimum.
I just printed it and put it in a 3 ring binder for out in the shop
I don't know the original source of this information. It came to me on the attached document. These torque specs are for stainless steel hardware lubricated with anti-seize or Blue Loc-Tite.
Metric A2 Stainless
Torque Specs in Foot Pounds
M4 x .7 =1.3
M5 x .8 =2.8
M6 x 1 =4.4
M8 x 1.25 =10.7
M10 x 1.25/1.5 =22
M12 x 1.75 =37
Attachments
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Just because that needs to be hilighted and that exact question was on my mind as I read your answer. What effect does locktite have on values?
According to the document I posted, they are the same. What I know is that if we're splitting hairs, each lubricant we may choose will have its own specific torque values. I'm pretty sure Yamaha specified clean, dry threads in the FSM. I believe that what I posted is good enough for our purposes. YMMV
Wow, 4.4 ft/lbs (about 53 in/lbs) on a stainless M6, seems I'm still making them too tight at around 70, lol. Going by "feel" though, I don't think 4.4 is going to feel very tight. Guess I'll need to do some experimenting. However, most of the M6 fasteners I'm torquing are the factory steel ones so maybe my 70 in/lbs isn't too far off for them. Reducing the dry max value for an M6 fastener (8 ft/lbs or 96 in/lbs) by 25% yields 6 ft/lbs or 72 in/lbs.
Yes. What I listed is strictly for the lubed stainless steel.
I may research lube torque when I have spare time and thinking about it.
AlloyBotz is selling stainless engine kits, so they’re providing information to cover their six.
https://www.rocol.com/knowledge-centre/rocol_expert/a-deeper-understanding-of-anti-seize
FWIW, I'm using the specs that came with the bolts. I think it's close enough. Google holds a lot of information on the subject.
Shipper
XS650 Addict
Who can tell me if 16ftlbs on the M10's on the sump filter is too much and likely to crush the filter? Sorry, my mistake - not 10 mm but 6mm bolts.
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'K... for starters, I'd guess you're using the bolt head size to find torque. That's not correct. Yes, those bolts use a 10mm wrench to tighten, but torque is determined by the shank size. In this case we're talking about 6mm bolts. I usually go about 6 ft. lbs on the sump bolts. Any more than that and you risk shearing 'em off.
The bolts holding the filter to the sump plate ?
