Used bikes. Does condition matter or just cheap.

[weekendrider]

I'm wondering how much to put into this '81.
Untitled non-runner when I acquired it.
Titled,wiring harness sorted, rotor replaced, brushes replaced, vaccum petcock kit, carbs cleaned and synced, turn signals, bars, replacement seat cover and now working on the front brakes.
So far I not out alot of cash. Replacement parts were things I had anyway. It has been mainly time and I'm wondering how far do I go?
It is inspectable and ridable.
The tires are old but flexable and not cracked. It could use some front end work mainly cleaning and oil replaced.
Cosmetics aren't of concern to me, most likely that will be changed by the buyer.
So my question is for those that have purchased their first.
Do you consider these things when looking at a bike to buy and is that time of any value to you?
If so how much more would it be worth?

 

[XSLeo]

Of the things you mentioned to tires are what you should be concerned with. Old tires are dangerous tires. Just because they look good don't mean they are good. Most tires have a DOT number. Look at the tires. At the end of the DOT number you will find some numbers in an oval shape. These are the manufactered date. If three numbers they were made before 2000, the first two numbers tell the week they were made, the last number is the year. example the numbers are 127. The first two mean the 12th week of 1997.
If after 2000 it will have four numbers, the first two are week and second two are year. As in 2411, 24th week of 2011.
If no numbers in an oval or no DOT number then they are way to old.
The tire manufacturers reccomend not running tires over 6 years old.
When I got my 81 the tires looked very good, even had most of the mold tits on it. But when riding the bike had a wicked wobble at 35-45 miles an hour. Swapped the front wheel/tire from the 75 and most of the wobble disappered. Swapped tires/wheels from the 82 parts bike that were full of cracks and all the wobble was gone. Ordered new tires right away.
If you don't replace them make sure the new owner understands this.
On the other things, changing the fork oil and upping the oil from the 5.7 ounces the book calls for to 7.5 will greatly improve the fork action. Minton Mods even better.
Depending on how good the neck bearings and swing arm bushings are they might need changing.
If it runs and charges well, rides good then let the new owner worry about the rest.
Leo

 

[Scrambled]

I'm wondering how much to put into this '81.
Untitled non-runner when I acquired it.
Titled,wiring harness sorted, rotor replaced, brushes replaced, vaccum petcock kit, carbs cleaned and synced, turn signals, bars, replacement seat cover and now working on the front brakes.
So far I not out alot of cash. Replacement parts were things I had anyway. It has been mainly time and I'm wondering how far do I go?
It is inspectable and ridable.
The tires are old but flexable and not cracked. It could use some front end work mainly cleaning and oil replaced.
Cosmetics aren't of concern to me, most likely that will be changed by the buyer.
So my question is for those that have purchased their first.
Do you consider these things when looking at a bike to buy and is that time of any value to you?
If so how much more would it be worth?

Fork oil is cheap and changing it will make the front end work better . When I first started shopping for an XS that was one of the things that kept me from buying a few of them , the front ends "dived" even under normal braking. All the sellers had to do was put in fresh fork oil and maybe add 1/2 oz more per fork than the book calls for and it would have made the difference between selling their bike or not. A bike that is road ready is always worth more than a fixer upper , lights, brakes , suspension , bearings , chain and sprockets ect., if I need to buy and install all of that it comes right off the price . Some bikes I looked at, when I subtracted the price of parts needed from the sellers asking price ,the seller ended up owing me money.

 

[gggGary]

If you are trying to make out on a flip you have to stop somewhere. Typical not so bad 81 in the midwest is a 1 to 1.5K $ bike. It's hard to put a bunch of new parts into "fix up bikes". To go with that; an honest discussion with the buyer about what you have and especially have not done, is needed. Odds are it's going to get cut or used as an "around town bike"by the buyer anyways.

 

[weekendrider]

Agreed the new owner needs to be aware of the tires because I'm not replacing them.
I would just be guessing at what the new owner wants in a tire or what "look" they are wanting to achieve.
I think I'm about tapped out as to what out of pocket expenses I care to put into it.
Been watching ebay lately and it seems some are taking a soaking for "built" bikes.
The stockers are bringing nice prices though.

Thanks Gary you've helped me organize my thoughts on it.
I definitely do NOT need to keep it.

 

[Scrambled]

Agreed the new owner needs to be aware of the tires because I'm not replacing them.
I would just be guessing at what the new owner wants in a tire or what "look" they are wanting to achieve.
I think I'm about tapped out as to what out of pocket expenses I care to put into it.
Been watching ebay lately and it seems some are taking a soaking for "built" bikes.
The stockers are bringing nice prices though.

You are right there , you can buy a decent finished project for way less than it costs to build one . I have way more invested in my bike than I could get for it but I don't plan on selling it any time soon. You should hold off selling for a couple of months if you can , spring fever always pushes the price of road ready (or near ready ) bikes up by at least 30% .