Try bypassing the RLU. Instructions are here in the forum somewhere. I’m sure you can find it.
I guess I should have read the write-up before jumping in. I should know better.If you're getting power and ground at the headlight connector, then the bulb must be bad. Unusual for them (both Hi Lo) to go at same time
That's a chunk of cash. Hugh sells a complete ignition and charging system for less. https://www.hughshandbuilt.com/shop/Correction:
TO CART
This product was added to your cart:
IGNITOR UNIT ASSY
5V48230510, fits Yamaha
€ 714.00
(USD 729.88 ,incl. 0% VAT)
So it seems to come on here and there, but not reliably. Bad ground in the handlebars maybe? I thought it wasn’t working and my bike started dying, turns out my high beam just decided to work and it was draining my battery!If you're getting power and ground at the headlight connector, then the bulb must be bad. Unusual for them (both Hi Lo) to go at same time
nope I have power going from my fuse box, green going to hi/lo and one ground at the frame and one ground in the left hand controlsAre any of the factory relays (etc) still in the headlight circuit?
Its that schematic with the brake light corrections that JP made. Also youre right, the headlight fuse connects to the rear light without a switch. It goes straight to the headlight and hi/lo switch.Post #433 Wiring in place Now or something else ??
It may take time before I understand that Schematic.. The brake light fuse and Headlamp fuse ?
It looks as the Headlight fuse connect the rear light without any switch as soon as the power is on
It goes Y/R from fuse to yellow, splits to taillight and headlight. No dimmer switch, just splits into yellow to high beam, green to low beam, and two grounds, one to the frame right near the coil and one in the LH controls.As Jan says: your schematic for headlight looks correct to me.
So Y/R from fuse to yellow, splits to taillight and dimmer switch, splits at dimmer switch green to lo beam, yellow to hi beam (?) and direct ground from headlight to ?
Yeah the ignition switch has been replaced with a basic flip switch hidden somewhere on my bike that nobody will ever find out about EVERThinking out loud here
What happened to the Dodgy Ignition Switch is that one out off the bike ?? or still in ??
So the yellow wire gets 12 volts all the way to the headlight. I havent tested my grounds.Thinking out loud again
If the rear lights come on the yellow has 12 V
I would check after the H-L switch
And then check inside the Head light --- .lamp holder and so
for 12 V upside and ground downside
View attachment 222458
Okay. I didnt really think the switch would mean all too much since im running kick start only, but it does make sense to have one anyway. No need to have that draw on my battery during the day.Suggestion 1) - the toggle switch (flip) should be rated @ 30Amps+
Suggestion 2) - wire in another toggle switch (some switch on Y/R) so that you can leave lights off while starting (develop habit of turning on before put it in gear)
And, headlight itself should have some direct ground (if I understand)
That toggle ignition switch is a 35amp. I wired another switch like you recommended on the y/r for the headlight, but still no luck. Turns on when it wants to not reliably. It’s not an issue with power connection bc I’m getting full power to the socket.Suggestion 1) - the toggle switch (flip) should be rated @ 30Amps+
Suggestion 2) - wire in another toggle switch (some switch on Y/R) so that you can leave lights off while starting (develop habit of turning on before put it in gear)
And, headlight itself should have some direct ground (if I understand)