What have you done to your XS today?

5twins

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Yes, those plugs look a little rich, and a drop in mileage is one of the signs you're jetted too rich. If you want to make the idle circuit a tad richer, reduce the air jet a size or two. When my '83 was basically stock (only mod was extra holes drilled in the ends of the stock mufflers), I went down two on the air jet and combined with the stock 42.5 pilot, it was good (put some color back on the plugs). Just that one little mod (drilled muffler ends) had the plugs looking pretty lean. I had also installed 135 mains and they were good.
 

LTGTR

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Vesrah Gasket Set - whats included.
Some forum members have strongly recommended using Vesrah gaskets - so I purchased a VG-282 set.
I have been doing a bit of a stocktake of the spare parts I have on hand and noticed the Vesrah gasket set doesnt say what the O Rings are for.
Just in case anybody is curious about whats included and for future reference, I have attached a list with the "O Ring" application included.
Caution - Part Number 256-11169-01 is labelled as a "Breaker Cover Gasket" - this is incorrect - its a Crankcase Breather Gasket.
I referenced a 77D Parts Manual to match the O Rings to an application.
Hope this helps someone.
Regards Ray.

P1030995.JPG

Vesrah gasket kit – VG-282

93210-15151 o ring 1.5 x 4.5 for valve guides 4 of

93210-12152 o ring 1.8 x 11.5 for cylinder head cover sleeve 4 of

93210-62304 o ring 2.8 x 62 for valve inspection cover 4 of

93210-45150 o ring 2.3 x 45 for breaker cover 2 of

256-11146-00 breaker cover set

256-11169-01 breaker cover set

93210-82153 o ring 1.5 x 81.5 for cylinder base 2 of

256-11351-00 cylinder base gasket

306-11181-00 cylinder head gasket

93210-17143 o ring 2.5 x 17.7 for rocker shaft 4 of

93210-21190 o ring 2.6 x 20.6 for cam chain tensioner nut 1 of

306-12213-01 tensioner case gasket

256-13556-01 manifold gasket

90430-38054 exhaust pipe gasket

306-15452-00 gear cover gasket

256-13414-00 strainer cover gasket

306-15461-00 left crankcase cover gasket

256-15451-00 right crankcase cover gasket

256-15456-00 oil cleaner cover gasket

256-13445-00 oil filter element gasket
 

GraemeH

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Took carbs apart and cleaned. First time since 1978 I believe. OK, so I am not a mechanic and it took me 3 days, but have to say the bike runs a good bit better. So very happy.

Can someone point me to explanations for the 2 tubes coming out the bottom and the ones coming from the top of the cylinder head to the air intake?
...and what's the technique for getting them shinier?

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5twins

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Just a note on that gasket set list - the size for the valve guide o-ring is listed incorrectly. But, I can't really fault them, Yamaha lists it incorrectly from '74 on, lol. To find the correct size listed, you have to look in an early parts book ('70-'72).

ValveGuideORing.jpg


4.5mm is a little less than 3/16" and it's pretty obvious from the picture that this o-ring is larger than that.
 

jpdevol

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Can someone point me to explanations for the 2 tubes coming out the bottom and the ones coming from the top of the cylinder head to the air intake?
...and what's the technique for getting them shinier?
Congratulations on the progress!

The tubes on the carbs are vent tubes; the one on the side of the venturi leads to a passage that maintains atmospheric pressure in the float chamber, the one off the bottom of the float bowl is often referred to as an overflow (and is) it is connected to a brass tube that rises from inside the float chamber -it also vents the float chamber.

The tube(s) that leave the top of the cyl. head are venting crankcase pressure - containing an oil mist - and routed to the airbox to reduce pollution (in the olden days were just routed to ground at the bottom of frame).

There are many methods for getting the aluminum on the carbs shinier - including vapor blasting with soda, using various brass brushes and even using a wadding such as Silvo or Brasso.

Your carbs appear to be 584 model Mikuni that would be found on '76-'77 models in other countries. Model 2F0 carbs were equipped on some '78 models and lacked the vent tubes you have. Can you tell us what needle and needle jet numbers were present on your carbs (and any other jetting and pics too)?
 

Yamaha Graveyard

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Well it's winter in Michigan, dark dreary cold and snow. And Wheezie is back in the rig for some improvements that I didn't get to because I was riding the wheels off her. Here's what's on the list. Fork rebuild and polish with Minton mods. new springs, steering head bearings, do you guys have any thoughts on fork braces? Do they help? My 68 125 Yammie had one but it was 69 and i didn't know shit. Rebuild and powdercoat brake calipers, drill the rotors, convert the rear to disc brake from a 79 clean up powdercoat and rebush that swingarm. I orderded a new seat from Texavina or what ever the place in Vietnam is, I will post some pics when / if it shows up. Paint is top priority we're going with Candy blue over silver or Tangerine same base. Nor can I decide if I want to paint the fenders or go chrome. I'm thinking Blue with chrome and Tangerine with sort of matching fenders.
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jetmechmarty

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do you guys have any thoughts on fork braces?
1669307711250.png

I put this one on my stock XS Eleven Special. I don't think it made much of a difference. However, I later went to custom wound straight rate springs and Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators. Once that was dialed in, I believe the brace imperative. The 37 mm tubes aren't really up to the modern suspension task. I'm very happy with it now. My Heritage Special developed a crack in the fender behind the right fork. Perhaps a brace would have prevented that.
Tkat retired, so those braces are only available used. That style is available from other vendors.
https://www.fastfromthepast.com/fork-braces
https://www.fastec-racing.co.uk/col...s/yamaha-xs650-fork-brace?variant=22393897927
https://www.omarsfiberglass.com/more-products

I orderded a new seat from Texavina
I'm anxious to see that and get your opinion of it.

Nor can I decide if I want to paint the fenders or go chrome. I'm thinking Blue with chrome and Tangerine with sort of matching fenders.
It's completely subjective, but I almost always favor chrome. After that, black fenders to contrast the color on the tank and side covers is what I prefer on a vintage or retro bike.
 

GraemeH

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Congratulations on the progress!

The tubes on the carbs are vent tubes; the one on the side of the venturi leads to a passage that maintains atmospheric pressure in the float chamber, the one off the bottom of the float bowl is often referred to as an overflow (and is) it is connected to a brass tube that rises from inside the float chamber -it also vents the float chamber.

The tube(s) that leave the top of the cyl. head are venting crankcase pressure - containing an oil mist - and routed to the airbox to reduce pollution (in the olden days were just routed to ground at the bottom of frame).

There are many methods for getting the aluminum on the carbs shinier - including vapor blasting with soda, using various brass brushes and even using a wadding such as Silvo or Brasso.

Your carbs appear to be 584 model Mikuni that would be found on '76-'77 models in other countries. Model 2F0 carbs were equipped on some '78 models and lacked the vent tubes you have. Can you tell us what needle and needle jet numbers were present on your carbs (and any other jetting and pics too)?
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I didn't have my glasses so couldn't read anything on the jets o_O. The bike is a 78 XS650E and I don't believe will have had any alterations done as I knew the one previous owner.
 

Oldfartaussie

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Noticed engine noise from the front of the engine riding home from work so I drained the oil thinking it could be the front cam chain guide had come apart.
Removed the sump filter and it looks as new, and no pieces of anything in the oil or sump. I then checked the cam chain adjustment and it's as it should be. Got to dig out the stethoscope to see if I can pin point the noise, the rings are not very old and it doesn't sound like loose exhaust valve clearance but I will be checking that as well.
 

Yamaha Graveyard

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Well it's winter in Michigan, dark dreary cold and snow. And Wheezie is back in the rig for some improvements that I didn't get to because I was riding the wheels off her. Here's what's on the list. Fork rebuild and polish with Minton mods. new springs, steering head bearings, do you guys have any thoughts on fork braces? Do they help? My 68 125 Yammie had one but it was 69 and i didn't know shit. Rebuild and powdercoat brake calipers, drill the rotors, convert the rear to disc brake from a 79 clean up powdercoat and rebush that swingarm. I orderded a new seat from Texavina or what ever the place in Vietnam is, I will post some pics when / if it shows up. Paint is top priority we're going with Candy blue over silver or Tangerine same base. Nor can I decide if I want to paint the fenders or go chrome. I'm thinking Blue with chrome and Tangerine with sort of matching fenders.View attachment 230555
Well the seat showed up almost a month early.

1974-1977 Yamaha XS650 Standard TX650 low profile seat saddle CODE: EC1-07 ebay seller $189​

I ordered 11/2 and it was on my porch 11/25 It looks good. If you do a little searching it's Texavina, I could not get their pay window to work so I bought it off ebay $10 more shipping was the same. It fits well there seems to be a little more material where it meets the tank and it's the color I ordered. The pan looks home made complete with welds and grind marks but it's solid work all the holes are in the right places comes with new bolts and rubber stoppers. the material stitching and quality looks and feels well made. What I felt through the broken english texts was that they built the seat for me in a color they make other products in just not this particular model. I'm very happy with it only time will tell, I will let you know come April or May how it might hold up. pictures attached. Whats the skinny on fork springs pros and cons of progressive and straight rate and who's a good vendor?
 

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jetmechmarty

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Whats the skinny on fork springs pros and cons of progressive and straight rate and who's a good vendor?
FWIW, I'll give you my best on the springs, but I'm an amateur.
Progressive springs are old school. They're one size fits all and it's an inexpensive way to go. They're just fine for putzing around and work just fine.
Straight rate springs are part of a more sophisticated suspension package. The springs should be wound to suit the weight of your bike, your weight and riding style.
https://www.racetech.com/
My preference is https://traxxion.com/
As I said, I have an XS Eleven with RaceTech emulators and straight rate springs. There's noticeable difference between my progressive sprung, damper rod XS650 and the Eleven.
The Race Tech or Traxxion Dynamics stuff can get pricey.
 

willis

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How long have you had it? and how is it holding up? Do you have a picture? I like to see what others are doing.
I’ve had it for about a year, but honestly haven’t put many miles on it as it’s been in storage most of this year. There are others here that have had longer with more seat time. I had mine stitched to resemble the xs2 seats.
6D09AAF9-5FBE-45D8-AA00-E15929482DE8.jpegA406F31B-9CB9-4B52-B798-D0AE578CBA3C.jpeg
 

5twins

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The stock fork springs are a nice, dual rate progressive but usually too soft. But you can fix them by adding a 3/4" to 1" preload spacer. That, along with the Minton Mods, 6.5 to 7 ounces of fork oil, and I'm quite happy with my '83 forks now. I had to experiment a bit with spacer length. I started with 1" spacers but they proved to be a little too much, so I shortened them a little bit to 13/16" and that seems perfect. I'd try the added spacers first. It just might save you the $80 to $100 cost of new springs.
 

jetmechmarty

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The stock fork springs are a nice, dual rate progressive but usually too soft. But you can fix them by adding a 3/4" to 1" preload spacer. That, along with the Minton Mods, 6.5 to 7 ounces of fork oil, and I'm quite happy with my '83 forks now. I had to experiment a bit with spacer length. I started with 1" spacers but they proved to be a little too much, so I shortened them a little bit to 13/16" and that seems perfect. I'd try the added spacers first. It just might save you the $80 to $100 cost of new springs.
DITTO! My XS650SK springs failed at the last service. They were no longer minimum length. Fortunately, I had a good set in my spares. On these broken Mississippi roads, I'm running them with no preload. The '83 has preload adjustable fork caps and I run them all the way out around here. As @5twins does, I run with a higher oil setting to firm up bottom of travel. It helps with brake dive. I plan to continue running the stock set-up on this bike. I could try the Minton Mod as I have spares in damper rods, but it has always seemed counter intuitive to what I wanted to achieve. I cannot speak against it as I have not tried it. Bottom line is I "fixed" my front forks with serviceable stock springs. HAPPY!
 

5twins

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The whole point of adding a spacer of about 1" was to achieve slightly more preload than the adjustable caps alone provide. Each step on the cap adds 10mm of preload, so you can apply 20mm total. An inch is about 25mm. But, what I failed to take into account was the thickness of the washer you also must add. That adds another couple MMs to the preload, and that's probably why the 1" spacers were too stiff. I had added 27 or 28mm more preload total, almost another full step of adjustment if the caps had that. 13/16" is about 21mm, add a couple MMs for the washer, and I'm at 23 or 24mm of preload now, and that's good. I don't really see the point of using spacers less than 3/4", you can achieve that with the adjustable cap.
 
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