Where the heck is the Oil Filter?!

[Its been a long time]

Many of us just use common automotive bearing grease to hold the gasket in place and to ensure that the gasket will come off easily, allowing us to reuse the gasket a few times. No gasket scraping in the future.


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That would normally be my method too. With this one, I can't see me removing the sump plate again this decade. If the bike does a thousand miles in that time, I'll be surprised. But happy

 

[Shelby]

Here's what I did recently. With the bike on the side stand and in gear, accessed from the right hand side, cleaned under the engine at the sump plate gasket surface. After cleaning the sump plate, I fitted the new gasket to the sump plate with a light coating of hylomar* to make sure the gasket didn't move while I was fitting the sump plate. I have a 1/4" drive socket set with a screwdriver handle driver. I used new 25mm x 6mm bolts lightly copperslipped and inserted the sump plate firstly at the sidestand side and then pushed it horizontal. I put one screw in the hardest to reach position by the side stand. The 1/4" drive screwdriver handle driver with a 10mm six sided socket is ideal as it's small enough to get in there and easy to start the screw tightening. Then added the other screws, tightened intially with the screwdriver handle and then with the 1/4" rachet. Using a 1/4" drive set with the bike in gear on the sidestand makes all the difference. And..... no leaks when I refilled with oil.

*usually I don't use any gasket compound. But I really wanted the gasket to stay in place on the sump plate while I was fitting it.

Agreed. NOT a job I want to do again because the frigging gasket slipped. Or crimped. Or...

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

If you haven't reinforced your sump screen (with a metal plate or JB Weld) to protect it in the "critical spot" from the gushing of oil, then it is advised to keep your revs below 3K until the oil warms up, maybe 4 miles of driving.


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[Shelby]

If you haven't reinforced your sump screen (with a metal plate or JB Weld) to protect it in the "critical spot" from the gushing of oil, then it is advised to keep your revs below 3K until the oil warms up, maybe 4 miles of driving.

Haven't reinforced my sump screen, but it is brand new. One of the first things I ordered from Mike's. Backup on the way, with extra gaskets. I'll check regualrly for torn screen.

Really had no clue about the tear/reinforcing issues till I started reading this thread. Keep in mind I'm old. LOL. My mother was driving a Model A when my parents met, and Dad taught me anything with a choke doesn't move till you can cut the choke. Could be why I never blew holes in my original /82 and /83s?

I now have two backup plates -- after I bought the first one on Ebay I saw another one in the same "there's GOT to be something wrong with it at that price range" listing with a drain plug and bought it as well. Course it was supremely STUCK in the plate. Screwed the plate to the workbench, but the BFH didn't work. Neither did a length of pipe on the 27" Yamaha drain plug wrench. Dragged the workbench out about 6" from the wall before I gave up and borrowed a 27mm impact socket. (See, I DID learn something!)

Original filter bit the dust -- I might have lost my patience trying to get the plate out past the kickstand and whack-a-moled it. Put that one in the vice and squished it back into shape, saved that for fitment testing. After I got the not-really-a-weld trash off the kickstand mount I finally figured out the correct angle of reentry. For anyone else at this level of frustration, I had to slide the plate to the back about half an inch.

 

[gggGary]

Your extensive research activity here is noted and heartily approved!

 

[Shelby]

Your extensive research activity here is noted and heartily approved!

Snort. Extensive research = PC for temper tantrum! Though it wasn't much of a loss. Original looks to have been a true original, and the first time I've ever seen your screen holes...