Xs650 brat tracker build PMA Pamco no battery kicker

650leather

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EDIT: before/after . More pic 2nd page



So in my profile you can see the bike before . It had up to this point brat style seat, Boyer ignition, Hugh's PMA and kickstart with 8 cell ballistic. The battery melted out and exploded and found I maulted some wire connections while re dueing the battery. Decided fucc the battery I'll put that money to a new Pamco. That turned into me deciding to redue all the wiring, install a new style diagram from kick only with capacitor. All waterproof connections, 14 and 16 g wires, relocate the rectifier , new fuse box, and e-advance under the seat away from any heat . I Also decided to buy some Pro taper dirt bike bars , new front break, steal braided rear brake line and a mini LED high output headlight so I can have a clean number plate front end . Here's some pics so far of rough fitting bars number plate and headlight
 

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Laid out wiring on the floor to get an idea of how the system will work, then did all the new waterproof connections I could, after that I put the wires back on the bike so I could see how long the lead wires would be roughly. The connectors I used during the layout phase on ground r bullet connectors so that I can interchange and replace things later on if I want/need to.
Here is wires on bike with the lead wires cut to little exaggerated length( only cut length when it's going into final completion stage )
 

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Took the wiring back off AGAIN to dry wire the circuit and look over it 10000x and actually understand it fully as what's going on how it flows etc. I need to add an inline 20amp for capacitor . But , now it looks like a full circuit . Next step is installing the wires back on the bike and cutting things to appropriate length. My uncle is making new brackets for under the seat where the rectifier fuse and e advance will go.

After that I'll be installing the hard parts of the Pamco. Any advice outside the regular directions from Pete's site would be great, esp for initial testing. Yes I will use a volt meter , I did the rectifier test before I did any of this to make sure that bitch was Ok
 

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650leather,

Well, the only instructions I would offer is the same that I offer for all PMA capacitor setups, and that is to temporarily wire the coil and PAMCO red wire to a stand alone battery, sitting on the floor, not connected to the bikes electrical system. This is done for three reasons:

1. If the PMA does not produce a usable voltage, you will kick yourself to death and the engine won't start.
2. The engine does start with the ignition wired to the bike, but it produces 20+ Volts and fries the ignition along with the electrical system of the bike.
3. The capacitor is wired in reverse and explodes when the engine starts and the PMA produces some voltage.

You have to get the engine to start and run to make sure the PMA is working properly. Also, installing both the PMA and the PAMCO at the same time means that you have two balls in the air.
 
Edit sry misunderstood Pete I see why now you say do that---but does the point between battery + and coil have to have the 7.5 amp
In my diagram the battery goes right into red coil and Pamco red , nothing in between ?
 

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Supposed to rain so I'm just planning ahead seeing how things go together --- how does this look off bike reference wise
 

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Installed pamco; takees maybe 30 minutes . Did final wires install and connexted everythng

Turned on the two switches and on first kick fired up 100%. Starts one kick no problen with lights on

Need to check pma timing and put my muffler back on :D
 
@pamcopete yeah they were switched moving it . The bike had bushings in there already. It ran ok a few mins then it started poping and back firing and wont rev when gasing. Bog out stall. I did not open up alternstor to time it with light gun yet :doh: this is why im guessing???
 
You should always have a fuse protecting a circuit. In this case a 7.5 amp for the ignition.
On a PMA the fuse should be between the PMA/Cap and the rest of the bike. Not between the PMA and Cap. With it between the PMA and cap, if the fuse blows it removes the load of the cap and lets the reg/rec go wild and can send out 20+ volt spikes.
Leo
 
@pamcopete yeah they were switched moving it . The bike had bushings in there already. It ran ok a few mins then it started poping and back firing and wont rev when gasing. Bog out stall. I did not open up alternstor to time it with light gun yet :doh: this is why im guessing???

Read post #5.....again.....:doh:
 
Read post 5 what am i missing . The test the pma part? Do u mean i adjust pma with bike running but not having the electrical system hooked up. Or can i time if with ignition hooked uo im mis reading this.
 
Read post 5 what am i missing . The test the pma part? Do u mean i adjust pma with bike running but not having the electrical system hooked up. Or can i time if with ignition hooked uo im mis reading this.

Go back to running the ignition on a stand alone battery and set the timing that way. Check the operation of the PMA with the engine running on the stand alone battery. After all checks out OK, complete the wiring of the PAMCO to the bikes electrical system.
 
When i went to adjust it i noticed the pamco waa waaayyy off center. I put it close as i csn tell and it ran a little better but still bogs out and gasps when giving throttle and bqckfires the unburnt fuel. Friend is brining over strobe gun
 
Upon adjusting it by moving pamco disco it ran good . But when i turn it back on it is all miss firing and wont respond to throttle.
 
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