jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
Hard to consider those as "highly unlikely scenarios", huh?
Bull. Do not confuse a skidding tire with good braking. BTDT more times than I care to count.
A skidding tire does NOT stop you;
4 pages and nobody is curious what a kx650 is?Just wondering how your bikes stop with the rear drum only? I currently run a 21" spool on the front and the stock mag on the rear with disc it looks bad but it stops ok. I recently picked up a kx650 drum rear wheel looks the same (or close enough) from what I can tell, but I dont want to put the effort in to respoking it if I cant stop the bike with it.
Agreed. I did not mean to imply that you want it to skid, just that if you reach the point of it skidding then your brake has enough power.
The key is to have a system that you can easily modulate so you can add just enough brake to slow it down but not enough to lock it. Typically you would run a smaller bore master cylinder on a disk brake to accomplish this. The same can be done on a drum brake by shortening the arm on the back side of the brake lever pivot. I did this on my bike and the difference was amazing. Before, it felt wooden and was just kind of on and off. Now, it has a more linear feel, stops harder, and doesn't lock unexpectedly.
On two occasions I had to lock up my rear brakes to lay my bike down into a slide. T
hank God for rear brakes.
I was referring to weight transfer, which is something no amount of fiddling with linkage ratios or wishful thinking will ever fix. When a car or bike or whatever decelerates, the front tires take on more of the load. Up to a point, the more weight that's put on them the more grip you get. That makes the front brakes a LOT more important than the rear.(Google 'circle of friction' for more on that.) Ignore this basic fact at your peril.
The other side of that coin is the rear tire gets load taken OFF of it, which produces exactly the opposite effect: as the weight on the tire lessens, its grip lessens as well. That means it is more likely to skid. All the modulation and wishful thinking and 'in your eye' attitude in the world won't help if you have 100 feet to stop and your rear brake only cannot stop you in that 100 feet. (Think 100 feet sounds like a lot? Just for reference, 30 MPH is 44 feet per second and the average human reaction time is in the area of 3/4 second. That leaves you 1.25 seconds and about 60 feet to come to a controlled stop before centerpunching Granny's fender with your head.)
Just wondering how your bikes stop with the rear drum only?
LIKE SHIT!
That's why it has FRONT BRAKES
mrriggs, I answered the question.
It's possible to apply the front brake in a turn but that's an advanced technique, get the feel of straight line stopping first before grabbing a big handful of front in a turn.
I know all that stuff. The guy was only asking about the difference between a disk and drum on the BACK WHEEL.
I can reliably brake in a turn as well, in fact I wish the front brake was more powerful. I will probably fiddle with M/C bores at some point because I like the idea of a two finger stoppie on demand. Not that I'd do it, I just like one that powerful.
I can reliably brake with the front rolling into a turn, or if need be, mid-turn, with the front. Another thing to practice while you are rolling around in the land where nothing goes wrong.