Ricky_F
XS650 Enthusiast
It's a 2F0 017
I thought you meant if it's a 2F0 17 not 017 sorry. So mine is the 79SF?
I thought you meant if it's a 2F0 17 not 017 sorry. So mine is the 79SF?
Thank you I will look at this thoroughly when I am back from the shop!Here is another simplified wiring diagram that applies to ALL ignition systems. Again it’s really quite simple and I still stand by just trying to rewire the bike yourself or buying a new harness. I agree to get a multimeter. Anyone will do. I’ve had the cheaper and more expensive ones from Advance auto and they both work great. I’d also highly suggest taking your carbs apart and thoroughly cleaning them. If it doesn’t have the factory airbox then order yourself a set of UNI pod filters.
Thank you I will look at this thoroughly when I am back from the shop!
I will definitely rewire it because it will be fun and I get to learn eveyrhing as you said. I'm at the shop now and do you know what size connectors I should get to attach to my blade fuses? For example 1/4 female connectors for what size fuse? Doesnt seem like it fits a mini fuseYou said you’re missing the kill switch? Have the handlebar switches been changed out from factory ones? Can you post a photo? Also check the flasher relay itself.
Also I’m just one person with an opinion so definitely take whatever approach makes the most sense to you. I’m only suggesting a rewire because the bike isn’t stock, has been messed with by who knows who and if you do it all yourself you’ll know everything about the bike. I rewired my entire bobber in 2 days.
Got it, but I did buy the fuses I needed and the multimeter. The 1/4" connectors go snug into the auto fuses you can find at auto zone. I learned that from another thread. Where do you recommend I start? You guys give me a place to start and I'll do it one thing at a time. Also, I noticed my killswitch is connected to the ignition key hole. I turn it to the right to turn it on, and another turn to the right to turn the whole bike off. Is that just like a kill switch or am I just turning the bike off but by turning the key again to the right instead of back to the left or is it a kill switch?My advice .........take a step back.........slow down.......do some more reading........work out what you need to do that suits how the bike is set up......ignition switch has been moved and you have a weird thing that looks like wiring, wrapped around the right front frame down tube.......what is that and what does it do.........until these things are sorted then your getting ahead of your self.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/wiring-harness-musings.18925/
I will post a picture of them again when I am back home in 15 minutes or so! Thank you. I've been trying to upload videos to make it easier for you guys but maybe they're too big in size?What exactly do you mean by what size connectors? It would be the red female style connectors for 22-18awg but finding ones small enough to fit the mini fuses might be difficult. You may be better just grabbing 4 inline fuse holders and running it that way.
*edit* I just looked over your photos again. Those don’t look like the factory carbs either. Can you post a better photo of them?
Thank you!! this will make my job a lot easier!78SE and 79SF wiring diagrams are basicly the same.........just a couple of small differences due to the 78SE has an on/off, on the bars switch, for the headlight.
use either wiring diagram as you continuity test your loom and see what matches up.....note the differences and jot them down for safe keeping
When I do this do I untape everything? I know someone told me to have the ignition and whoe bike off while doing this too correct?Continuity test al wiring........draw a diagram of each circuit to and from switches and note the wire colouring....you have to work out your loom
What exactly do you mean by what size connectors? It would be the red female style connectors for 22-18awg but finding ones small enough to fit the mini fuses might be difficult. You may be better just grabbing 4 inline fuse holders and running it that way.
*edit* I just looked over your photos again. Those don’t look like the factory carbs either. Can you post a better photo of them?
My bad I had a lot to read through and will scroll back up!I posted a link on "how to Continuity test" in post #10........also should find a how to in your muti-meter instructions.