'74 TX650A Clutch Friction Plate Replacement

OhTimothy

XS650 Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
15
Points
3
Location
South Carolina
I've got a set of new friction plates coming for my '74 XS650, and had a couple of questions:
1. Do I need to drain the oil from the motor before removing the right side case?
2. I've read the procedure in my Clymers and from what I gather I only need to remove the clutch bolts and springs and remove the pressure plate to gain access to remove the old disc pack and put it back in with new friction plates. There is no reason to disassemble any further than that, is there?

Thanks in advance! I attached a pic of my old battle ax. It's a 20 footer but it runs great and is a blast to ride!
 

Attachments

  • 20210219_110629.jpg
    20210219_110629.jpg
    188.1 KB · Views: 142
1) If you remove the cover with the bike leaned over about 45 degrees, you can remove the cover and change the plates. Remove the cover with the bike vertical, yes there's oil behind it.
2) You understand correctly. It wouldn't hurt to replace the springs at this time. It may save you going right back in.
 
Don't forget to soak the new plates in motor oil before install. I'd give them a few hours at least but over night would probably be better.
 
Thanks JetMech! I bought the friction plates from 'MikesXS' but they didn't catalog a set of clutch springs that I saw. Do you know of a source for new springs?
 
Be sure and soak the plates in oil before installation.
 
Thanks JetMech! I bought the friction plates from 'MikesXS' but they didn't catalog a set of clutch springs that I saw. Do you know of a source for new springs?
I purchased a Vesrah set in June on eBay for $15. Seller was perf-moto. My normal go-to for something like that is Michael Morse at 650 Central. He's very quick and gets it right every time.
 
Thanks again jet mech! One last question -- My Clymers doesn't publish one that I can find -- do you know if there is a torque value for re-installing the spring bolts?
 
Thanks again jet mech! One last question -- My Clymers doesn't publish one that I can find -- do you know if there is a torque value for re-installing the spring bolts?
I use German torque and a JIS screwdriver. (Guten tite) I just run time to the bottom. They stay where you put them.
 
Although the shouldered portion of the clutch spring screw is quite large, the threaded part is just a standard M6, so that's the torque spec you follow. That's about 7 ft/lbs.
 
Once you are that far wouldn't hurt to confirm damper springs on the rear of the clutch basket are all intact. and resqueeze the starter spring. always use lots of caution about the parts and order in the spacer bearing pack behind the clutch.
 
Last edited:
Once you are that far wouldn't hurt to confirm damper springs on the rear of the clutch basket are all intact. and resqueeze the starter spring. always use lots of caution about the parts and order in the spacer bearing pack behind the clutch.
Are the damper springs available as replacements? When I take mine apart for the 8 plate install, I need to check them.
 
I used that kit, but the bolts ended up being too long, as were the nuts too thick, so I had to file them down so they would clear the engine/trans casings. I welded the bolts to the nuts so they would never come apart, after doing a basket spin test to ensure everything was free and clear. Some photos are posted. I would have to find the link.
 
Back
Top