Hey, littlebill. You've got the right idea. I find it amazing that this simple, standard procedure doesn't have any decent, appropriate pics on the web. Would take me a little time to stage mock-up pics, so let's try with what I've been able to find.
These pics show a 400cc sleeve removal. Cylinder is propped up with milling machine clamp bars, with room to allow the sleeves to drop. Place in oven at 350°F-400°F for about 30 minutes.
Usually you'll hear them *clunk* when they drop out.
This fellow placed heavy plates atop the sleeves to speedup the dropout.
Installing is the reverse. Prop up the cylinder block so there's enuff room for the sleeves to protrude and dangle below. Oven heat at 350°F for 15-30 minutes.
Some would recommend first chilling the sleeves, not a bad idea.
Then drop in the sleeves.
Ensure that the flange notch (if it exists) aligns with the hollow dowel location.
Now, the important part. While the cylinders are still hot and propped up, lay a heavy plate atop the cylinders. This should prevent "sleeve creep", the tendancy for the sleeve to work its way up/out during cooling. Let the cylinder slowly cool to room temperature.
For your slipped sleeve, simply do as above. Be sure to have the cylinder block propped up, with the sleeves dangling below. Heat to 350°F-400°F for about 30 minutes, and place that heavy plate atop the cylinders. May need to lightly tap on the plate to get the sleeve to move and seat.
You can use equal-length deep sockets, equal width plates, pieces of pipe, milling machine clamp bars, ...etc. I used plates from the hydraulic press. I wouldn't recommend using lumber.
New replacement sleeves have a thicker flange, and will protrude above the surface. This requires decking/milling of the cylinders as the next process.
A forum search on "sleeve creep" yields more info...