A 5 bike collection

Dug into the XJ a bit last night. After 50 miles was pretty sure I was riding a 780cc 3 three cylinder.
Used a high tech diagnostic tool. DIY may not be able to afford this, but WOW is it useful.
a spritzer bottle with plain water. spray on exhaust headers up near the cylinder. Quickly reveals a cylinder that's not pulling it's load. Especially useful on 4 cylinders where it's not immediately obvious who isn't working.
#1- zero heat on the pipe.
pulled all the plugs, WOW plug access on these is awesome easy! Plugs were "new" one was oily... But no smoking. all 4 holes were 160PSI plus,
checked had spark, torch dried the plug ran it, same. Put in a new plug, same. double checked plug caps. resistance good.
Pulled #1 vacuum cap (I'd already replaced all the old cracked caps with new) Sprayed in some carb cleaner, cylinder caught and ran a bit.
Drained some gas from #1 float bowl, gas clean and plenty of flow. Not looking forward to pulling the bank of carbs, #1 is fairly accessable; so....... Pulled, checked, the diaphragm. sprayed carb cleaner down the main jet, pulled checked idle mix screw, tip intact. (@jetmechmarty ) Sprayed more carb cleaner in the idle screw hole, replaced, set at 3 turns out. Pulled the float bowl.
Dang these little guys are handy...
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gggGaryized with a bit of rubber fuel line, easier to spin the bit in tight places.
That milwaukee bit set is the bee's knees too.

There was bit of gooey black in the bowl like a piece of fuel line that turned to goo ???
removed pilot. HAH found a criminal, jet was plugged, a bit of fine copper wire, open, reinstalled. Carb back together.
Drained fuel tank, will remove, scrub, clean up, fuel level float assembly, then back together and road test.
More breathless updates later.
 
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Dug into the XJ a bit last night. After 50 miles was pretty sure I was riding a 780cc 3 three cylinder.
Used a high tech diagnostic tool. DIY may not be able to afford this, but WOW is it useful.
a spritzer bottle with plain water. spray on exhaust headers up nearthe cylinder. Quickly reveals a cylinder that's not pulling it's load. Especially useful on 4 cylinders where it's not imediately obvious who is not working right.
#1- zero heat on the pipe.
pulled all the plugs, WOW plug access on these is awesome easy! Plugs were "new" one was oily... But no smoking. all 4 holes were 160PSI plus,
checked had spark, torch dried the plug ran it, same. Put in a new plug, same. double checked plug caps. resistance good.
Pulled #1 vacuum cap (I'd already replaced all the old cracked caps with new) Sprayed in some carb cleaner, cylinder caught and ran a bit.
Drained some gas from #1 float bowl, gas clean and plenty of flow. Not looking forward to pulling the bank of carbs, #1 is fairly accessable; so....... Pulled, checked, the diaphragm. sprayed carb cleaner down the main jet, pulled checked idle mix screw, tip intact. (@jetmechmarty ) Sprayed more carb cleaner in the idle screw hole, replaced, set at 3 turns out. Pulled the float bowl.
View attachment 215541
Dang these little guys are handy...
There was bit of gooey black in the bowl like a piece of fuel line that turned to goo ???
removed pilot. HAH found a criminal, jet was plugged, a bit of fine copper wire, open, reinstalled. Carb back together.
Drained fuel tank, will remove, scrub, clean up, fuel level float assembly, then back together and road test.
More breathless updates later.

Nice bit of sleuthing Gary! So much better than my usual technique of throwing money at a problem and hoping it fixes the issue! 😆 I’m pretty sure if that had been me, I’d have all the carburetors off and on my bench right now, in a million pieces, I’d have ordered $60 in parts and the bike would be down for two weeks.

Not Gary, “Hmmm….let’s spritz a little water on the exhaust….ah, there’s the problem! “ :cool:

Who thinks like that? Not me apparently :cautious:
 
One step forward, runs "better", turned idle stop out nearly a turn to a smooth 1,000 RPM idle..
Still not super happy 2K to 4K feels like one pilot still not perfect, then good on up, all pipes hot now.
Didn't win on fuel gauge R&R :doh:
@MacMcMacmac @ @madmax-im
what is the 'forum YICS block off" like? I probed behind the bolt below the intakes with a thin rod and come to a stop about 2 1/2" in. Should be able to go all the way to the far side? :unsure:
 
One step forward, runs "better", turned idle stop out nearly a turn to a smooth 1,000 RPM idle..
Still not super happy 2K to 4K feels like one pilot still not perfect, then good on up, all pipes hot now.
Didn't win on fuel gauge R&R :doh:
@MacMcMacmac @ @madmax-im
what is the 'forum YICS block off" like? I probed behind the bolt below the intakes with a thin rod and come to a stop about 2 1/2" in. Should be able to go all the way to the far side? :unsure:
I'm wondering if it was running with the blocking tool in there until it rotted and broke. JAT
 
One step forward, runs "better", turned idle stop out nearly a turn to a smooth 1,000 RPM idle..
Still not super happy 2K to 4K feels like one pilot still not perfect, then good on up, all pipes hot now.
Didn't win on fuel gauge R&R :doh:
@MacMcMacmac @ @madmax-im
what is the 'forum YICS block off" like? I probed behind the bolt below the intakes with a thin rod and come to a stop about 2 1/2" in. Should be able to go all the way to the far side? :unsure:
@gggGary it should go in the full length of the carb body...I'll try to find a pic of mine...it should fully seat in and the end nut should fasten it in place...I cant find a good pic of mine..not sure if one got broke in there..mine was machined from aluminum and was quite strong...and the O rings are made of Viton..which can withstand high engine heats..But.. some people make their own..homemade version and theres no telling how good it was made...
 
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Found this on the net....
92 Euros HERE but they do seem easy
When I needed one for my 750 Seca, I borrowed the tool from a local Indie shop.
 
There was a YICS block off rod in there. a trip inside with the borescope revealed the end was drilled and threaded, but who knows what thread, after several thread size tries a "pole barn length" drywall screw caught in the aluminum thread enough to let me slowly twist and extract the rod.
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O rings were mostly junk. Will try it without the rod, see how it runs. Like @MacMcMacmac sez a working YICS is most likely a good thing.
Won on the fuel level sender working, the problem was mostly corrosion at the spade terminal for the ground connection on the sender plate. But the plate had a slow leak after reinstall last time, now with some Hylomar blue and other secret sauce work we'll see if it's sealed tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the help n tips!
 
I rode my Maxim 26 yrs using the YICS system and never thought twice about it..The last 4 yrs i changed the exhaust and went to real K/N pod filters..Carbs were also rejetted and the YICS tool was left inserted after the carb synch. I was amazed at the big difference in how the bike ran afterwards... IMO it improved throttle response and smoothed out the idle.. and low end performance...made the engine purr....Being deaf i never heard the engine whine...lol
 
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through 2 carbs, score so far;
1) completely plugged main jet SO it was STILL a three cylinder!
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1) dirty emulsion tube cross holes
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1) the previously discovered plugged pilot.
1) caved in till it cracked then epoxied float bowl.
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Guess someone got a bit frustrated!
 
Nothing wrong with that repair if done with the DevCon high priced spread.
In severe cases I've used stainless steel pot screens as reinforcement and in "concrete fence" only a lot smaller ;-)

I still need to update the old moma Yama carb cleaner formula recipe ....
 
Those carbs are a mess...once you get everything all cleaned up and have new O rings on the eliminator tool..I'd be curious to know your opinion...aka verdict on blocking the YICS ports off or just synching the carbs then removing YICS eliminator tool...The 1st 2 yrs of the XS1100 were 95 hp from the factory..by the ttime we get to 1982 were down to about 79hp FYI
 
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