Some good news and some not great news.
First, the not so great news.
The pushrod won't go back in as far as it normally does. I saw that but, getting a touch impulsive, went to put the cover screws back on slowly to see if it'd get the rod to sit back in properly. I didn't force it per se, I was able to get the cover screwed back on just moving slowly with screws and not even with extra effort, but I had a feeling the rod didn't go back down, especially when putting the shifter back on was requiring more effort. I pulled in the clutch lever and it wouldn't move at all. I took the cover and shifter back off, not wanting to force rod or damage things. It had not gone back in at all. So that's where that got left last night as it got dark. Going to look up how to deal with that now.
Second piece of not so great news is
I took another look at that wire running to the stator that appeared damaged. It certainly is. Looks either torn or melted. Still can't see interior wires in it coming out, or any visible, but there's definitely a hole in it. Going to look up part info on that now too.
^When I move that little melted piece to the side, there's a hole.
In other news, left battery off the tender for a night, read 12.6V with bike off. Removed the terminal nut from spark plug, caps fit on as they should! Allllmost turned over on the very first electric start attempt. Started on the second attempt. So, so far seems like the spark plugs situation was definitely making the cold start more difficult. Battery read 12.4V at idle then, which if I remember correctly is on the low side. Still thinking a new battery is in order to eliminate that being an issue at all.
Oh, and cleaned the rotor!
And below here's a better shot of that "film" I was talking about...you can see it cracked off a bit. (more pics in thumbnails)
Also, wasn't able to get a stable OHM reading from putting leads together on meter--which from my understanding I need to get and then deduct from ring reading--but I did get 4.7 reading placing each lead on a track, but that's without that deduction. Going to look into meter use more now too in case I'm buggering that up somewhere.
Should have added... far be it for me to tell you what to do with your bike. I'm just trying to show you there's options. Cheers.
Didn't take it as you telling what to do at all, I appreciate you presenting the alternatives because, while I know quite clearly what I want aesthetically (save a few I keep waffling on), for quite a few of those modifications I'm still figuring out how and IF I can execute it considering the overall system of the bike's mechanics and electrics--and figuring out what I need to learn to answer that, or even get at the right question haha. (I realize some people may think it's insane, or annoying, for someone of my knowledge level to think they can start modifying a bike when they are just understanding how a standard bike works, but I like big tasks and making things and doing this will require me to learn and understand all those things on the way, not to mention I have the added fact (ahem, stress) that I need to as it's my transportation).
As for creating negative space and reducing weight: I'm basically hoping to delete or make tiny anything behind the carburetors (so between carbs and rear wheel I want as much negative space as possible), and then just any weight in general. So that means, air filter (switch to pods? think I heard a rumble or two that they're not great for these, or perhaps it's just that you have to get the tuning or jetting just right); starter (though this isn't technically in that area, it'd reduce weight), reg/rec, smallest battery possible...
(want everything on the bars as simplified and torn down as possible too, none of the big clunky pieces)
Overall, as for
electrical system goals:
(disclaimer: I can't talk about this much yet, as I haven't learned much of the basics of the electrical system yet, but I need to consider it as much as I can at the moment because I need a new battery asap, and I'd rather not buy one now and another type later cuz $... Trying to do too much at once over here I think)
--
CHARGING system: I'm fine keeping the original charging system if I can make it reliable as Jim said--and yes, espeeeeecially considering cost of the switch--as long as I can still delete or shrink enough with it in. So going off what you're saying Jim, a small battery sounds smarter for me than a capacitor, especially if it'd be more reliable.
@Jim do you think I could get away with a tiny battery
before or without moving to kick only? I guess considering my immediate need for a battery, I'm thinking smartest is to get smallest I can that
will work with existing electric start system etc--I should just answer my own question now and look into what parameters that means the battery needs to fall into and finish reading Jim's post on charging for dummies. (I've heard lithium batteries are great, small, and light--but they are $ and require different external chargers that need balancing from time to time; charging system has to charge between 13.4 & 14.6 or it won't charge it, which shouldn't be an issue if my system is in order. Heard EarthX 12a is one... )
--
in the LIGHTING department, I will be running: headlight, taillight, and blinkers; (as much as I'd like to get rid of indicators, this is a daily LA rider and I also don't want to give the cops a reason to talk to me). Switching out indicators (front/back) and taillight (both location and type). From what I understand LED seems smartest per efficiency due to requiring less power and they are often bright as hell.
--
As for STARTING, yes I do love the kickstart (for me it's about feeling like you're a piece in the machinery--well, that and creating an explosion), and yes getting stalled at an intersection when you have things on your back and hardly anywhere to move stinks--had to deal with that on my last bike. But to me it's worth it for above reason AND if it removes a good amount of bulk (both weight and actual space). Point being, if I can keep it and still cut enough weight and make enough negative space, I'm not necessarily against it as it would be nice for emergencies, rush situations, the many times I need to start it to work on it, and it'd eliminate the human error variable at least in that department. But I also like the idea of keeping the electric as simple as possible
--IGNITION: I don't understand yet what moving to kick only would mean for the TCI, or if this is an area where I can/want to delete things, because I haven't been able to look into how TCI functions yet. I know the unit is located in the area I want to clear out, but I can tuck it by the battery I imagine; seems ignition includes just the TCI unit (which I haven't physically looked at yet), fuses, pick up coil, and some switches n relays. Clearly the kick works with TCI.
Off to read about fixing this pushrod, stator wire, and battery/charging rules...