Anyone have a source for LH cover gaskets?

gggGary

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Working on that 81 I had to steal a gasket from an engine set, I have like 5 "early" LH cover gaskets but no late. Mikes wants $10 a crack, OEM are $15 online a bit steep IMHO. would like to put 5 or 6 on the shelf.

GASKET,CRCS CVR 2
306-15461-00-00
 
LOL well there's THAT! I have always wondered if Yamaha adjusted the depth of the face on that back screw where the gasket doesn't go to account for the thickness of the gasket or just figured the cover will bend to take up the difference.
 
I also like to have some air flow for my alternator.
Alt mod2.JPG
 
With no gasket, I'd expect it to get about as hot as the head?
Are you saying that the gasket prevents heat transfer to the alternator? I see no logic in that. The rotor is connected to the crankshaft and the stator is connected to the crankcase. Its obvious that both of these components will have heat transfer from the engine. All the gasket does is slow down the heat transfer to the left cover, which achieves nothing. Actually its better to have direct heat transfer to the left cover, so that air flow over the left cover helps to remove some engine heat.
 
Actually its better to have direct heat transfer to the left cover, so that air flow over the left cover helps to remove some engine heat.
I'd say it's better to have a thick gasket so air flow over the left cover cools the generator. I'd also say it's best to have the cover on, to keep debris out. Gasket surely also keeps that oily crap around the sprocket out of the generator.
 
Silicone gasket maker. On my Goldwings people are so anal about sealing up those front covers for the timing belts, I use black silicone wherever the thick rubber gasket seems in jeopardy. There's a big hole at the bottom of that casting for drainage anyways. Same on my two CB750C's at the alternator, big hole in the bottom of that casting too for drainage. I just love to bring up the necessity to keep those holes clear after someone goes through all of the trouble to seal those areas with new gaskets. Granted, I hate the looks of gasket maker beads on an engine, a toothbrush and a rag gets rid of that while the silicone is still semi-fluid. I don't use silicone on any surfaces adjacent to oil or coolant but some places it makes inspections easier, and I'm more apt to jump into an inspection knowing that re-assembly only involves a simple cleaning and a few drops of silicone.

Scott
 
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I'd say it's better to have a thick gasket so air flow over the left cover cools the generator. I'd also say it's best to have the cover on, to keep debris out. Gasket surely also keeps that oily crap around the sprocket out of the generator.
How does the left cover cool the alternator, when the alternator is not connected to the left cover? With a thick gasket, the left cover is the only thing being cooled by air flow.
The small cover has been open for about 8 years now, and no debris or oil found in my alternator.
Take a look at your car or truck, and notice that the alternator is open to the road below it.
 
Don't you think the generator is cooler if air is flowing over the cover?
No, simply having air flowing over the left cover, does not cool the alternator. That air flow will remove some heat from the engine, and will do it better if there is no gasket. The only thing that is going to cool the alternator is to have the small cover open with spacers, so that there's an air exchange.

With the alternator fully enclosed, it's going to reach the same temperature as the lower crankcase of the engine. But having an opening, will allow some cooler air to enter around the alternator, and some hotter air to escape. I don't know if much air exchange actually happens, or how much it cools the alternator. I think it would be better if I drilled some holes in the front of the left cover, and I may yet do that.
 
What if it was liquid nitrogen flowing over it then?
I've never heard of it used around motorcycles, but it is common practice to use it in Nuclear Power Plants. Some parts of a
reactor that need maintenance, do not have isolating valves. So in place of isolating valves, we used liquid nitrogen to freeze the water in the pipes. The frozen water becomes an ice plug, allowing maintenance work to be done.

I guess this thread has been well hi-jacked!
 
I guess this thread has been well hi-jacked!
He knows where to get gaskets. The morning honey-do list arrived and he was procrastinating.

What do you or anyone know about those cloth-covered wires coming out of there? Is there plastic underneath? How do they react to being wet and laying against the frame?
 
He knows where to get gaskets. The morning honey-do list arrived and he was procrastinating.

What do you or anyone know about those cloth-covered wires coming out of there? Is there plastic underneath? How do they react to being wet and laying against the frame?

hi-jack continues, GoldWings are notorious for burns at the alternator connection. I've seen the fried connectors but never seen the actual wires, heat protected or not, burned before, only at the connections. Hard wiring those connections is the mod for those.

I don't think the heat resistant wire coating can be penetrated by water to cause problems.

Scott
 
The wires running up from the alternator are pretty heavy duty. Yes, there is plastic insulation under the cloth, but it's reinforced too. It has that cross hatched nylon stringing in it.
 
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