Buzzy's revival: '82 Heritage Special

The levers have sort of an "S" bend to them. They need it to clear the alternator case .....
Well dang it. It is functional now, but surely not pretty. I guess I will call it 'custom' now.

@650Skull I see that now, oops.

@Jim Pretty pillion tends to be relatively laid back about it at the moment, but I do need to contact the insurance and see how bad they will hurt me.

@5twins I will lubricate the clutch cable next, thanks for that input.
 
For the cables themselves, most of us just dribble motor oil down into them until it comes out the other end. That spray cable lube is no good, too light. It only lasts a day ot two, lol.

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Buzzy now has new rubber grommets for the two upper side panels. I ha e grommets for the lowers but I will hold off putting them on till I can find the lower side panels.
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I left the lowers in place for later. The old grommets were quite hard.
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I simply repeated this for the left side as well. Those grommets were bad too but in better shape than the right side which is why I lost its side cover to begin with.
 
I swapped the disk on the front out today as well. I use EBC on all my bikes so I figured I would on Buzzy as well.
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If I had not read about this screw on another thread, I would have been screwed (see what I did there)? The Clymer manual I have does not show the single disks that came on the 1982 bike, thus it does not mention taking this one out.
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Can we collectively say "Dang, that is dirty"!!!
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For the time being, the caliper is holding pressure. But I am going to need to get a rebuild kit ASAP as this 40 year old rubber is truly showing its age.
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Both of the old pads show significant groves, though the disk is only slightly noticeable. There is only minimal wear otherwise.
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I could not find the "C" clamp I normally use to press the piston back in so I use a wrench as a buffer and simply squeezed it back with channel locks.
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I pumped the brake lever a few times and and pressured it up. I then went for a ride down by the Potomac river. The front brakes are better now but I think I will great new line soon and still need to flush the brake fluid.
 
I attempted to put the windscreen on Buzzy tonight, but failed. First question, how do the front blinkers come off? I consulted the manual and it said this:
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I thought I needed to gain access the the flasher light stock from inside of the headlight assembly. But that too is thwarting me. I know this should be an easy task.
The first thing I noticed is this screw is missing.
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Then I took this screw all the way out. It is close to three feet long it seems.
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But even after taking it out, I could not get the headlight ring off, something was holding it back like a spring maybe.
Basically, I am trying to get the angled brace shown below onto the flasher stock.
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On a bright note, I have two new LED flood light that run on batteries and man are they bright.
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There are two screws holding the headlight in. There should be another opposite of the one that's missing. Yes, don't mess with that long small screw on the front. That's the left-right alignment screw for the sealed beam and has nothing to do with the headlight removal.

You shouldn't mount the windshield bracket on the TS stalk like shown in that pic. The stalk locks into the oval shaped washer and it can't/won't do that with a bracket stuck between them. Best spot would be inside the headlight ear, between it and the bucket. But, being that everything is rubber mounted, none of these spots are going to give you a real solid mount.
 
On my 80
The blinkers are held in place via a nut inside the lamp housing and in center that bolt goes the wire
once the reflector and lamp comes out you will see it

When the two screws are out there is like a barb at 12 o clock that I have to push over to get it on and off
If i recall right I use a flat screwdriver to wedge it open a bit and then push down on the lamp housing
not the ring
( please be careful I don't remember exactly )
Then it pops out
 
I got home before sunset tonight and got a chance to fit the windshield to Buzzy.
Getting the bevel off the headlight in daylight is indeed easier, who knew? Of course I see that almost everything inside there needs to be replaced.
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The brace for the windshield does need to fit over the flasher shaft. This was a pretty easy task and I do see that the shaft on this side is bent from the tip over last week.
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Here it is loosely fastened.
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I do need some advice here guys. the left brace does not tighten down enough for me. If I try hard enough, I can get the bars to rotate. The right side tightens correctly into the riser.
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This was the hardest part to get back together. I mistakenly took it all the way out last night. That little spring is amazingly strong.
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This is it tightened up. I will need to source new grommets for this too. I cannot find any on the Arthur Fulmer website. I cannot even find this windscreen thus I think they discontinued it some time ago.
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I took it for a test ride and maintained 55mph or so for awhile. The flow of air is great, no buffeting. The top is just below my field of view. I even managed to get the headlight straight again.
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After the ride, I let the bike idle for several minutes while I stood on the leaning side. I was hoping to get it to repeat the tip over but it showed no signs of movement at all. I am now wondering if I simply did not have the kickstand fully forward when I walked away from it allowing the bike to fall.
 
That windshield looks good, that should make it much more comfortable to commute to work on those frosty mornings! :thumbsup: I had one similar to that on my XS750.
 
The wiring and connectors in the headlight bucket doesn't look that bad. Some cleaning will fix most of that.

Replaced my loom with and old one i picked up. It was filthy but in good nick. Used a Dremel drill with a small ball bit to clean up the female bullet connectors and some Lanolin oil for the plastic covers. WD40 will do the trick.

Before
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After
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Finished..........Replaced a couple of couplings due to age wear/disintigration
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I wasn’t suggesting you buy it, rather thought it is a good resource for seeing the parts assembly. Soak those adjusters in some penetrating fluid. Maybe put it in a vice and I bet you can free it up. Shouldn’t be too hard to fab up some new grommets either. Good old ingenuity will get you far.
 
After the ride, I let the bike idle for several minutes while I stood on the leaning side. I was hoping to get it to repeat the tip over but it showed no signs of movement at all. I am now wondering if I simply did not have the kickstand fully forward when I walked away from it allowing the bike to fall.

I was always iffy with my 83 side-stand. Always felt like it wanted to tip the bike.............What i did whenever i stopped and put it on the side stand, i would then turn the bars so the front wheel would face opposite to the lean of the bike. doing this the bike always wanted to move backwards a little pushing backwards against the side-stand,setting it so it was hard forward.

Can be a bit disconcerting when doing this at first, as the bike feels like it is near tippling point but it isn't, it beds nicely.
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It's 35*F this morning and Buzzy's windscreen did a great job riding to work.

In those temperatures, just being able to keep the wind blast off of your hands is a big deal! I could always pile on enough gear to keep my body warm, but I’d arrive at work with numb hands. :confused:
 
One of the many questions I have to solve is: why does the speedometer read so high? I mentioned earlier that at 4,900 RPM, the speedometer says I am around 60mph, yet Pretty pillion says her car's reads 70 or so. Yesterday I saw that I was passing cars on a 55mph road with my speedo reading 55mph.

I just saw on @TX650A919 Van Islander build thread post #48 where the speedo gear was cleaned. Is this my issue too I wonder. Or, is there something done by a past owner that changed it? Or, is this just the way it was built?
 
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