Another problem with low mileage, high fuel consumption, is that to much fuel can wash the bores of lubrication and this causes the rings/bore to wear prematurely.
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Buzzy's revival: '82 Heritage Special
- Thread starter Boog
- Start date
Yep. Walmart 20W50 is used my some here as well. I’ve used it in a pinch without issue. I’ve used Rotella without issue. The current oil is Lucas synthetic and it’s working fine too. Avoid “ENERGY CONSERVING.”Yes It is diesel engine oil, It's the only thing other than motorcycle specific oil thats rated for wet clutches. Motorcycle riders have been using it for years, it costs less than motorcycle oil. If your going to be racking up miles and riding a lot the cost savings can be significant. Otherwise use use 4 stroke motorcycle oil. Asking motorcycle riders what the best kind of oil is can start fist fightsthere are loads of differing opinions. The FACTS are that yes rotella diesel oil is a ONE of the recommended oils for older 4 stroke wet clutch bikes. I have run it with no problems as have many others.
For comparison, after my top end overhaul I’m getting 56 miles per gallon!
I get the idea that i am running the bike at a higher speed than most do simply because I ride the expressway to and from work. And even though I am not redlining the engine, I know higher speed will indeed consume more fuel. But I am thinking something is not right with as low as I am getting. I will do another trial where I ride at lower speeds on the highway off the super slab and see if my mileage becomes closer to the expected normal.
I would love to get 56 MPG though!
Anytime a new to you bike with BS34's arrives a check/replacement of the float valve body o-rings is required maintenance. Yes 35MPG is too low. even at speed with lower gearing. An XS motor is still in it's sweet spot efficiency wise at 5K RPM. The motor was designed by Yamaha as a revver not a lugger.
Yes, the fact that you're dribbling gas from one carb occasionally is an indication that something is amiss with the carbs. With any new-to-you 650, you should take a look into the carbs. At the very least, remove the float bowls and look to see if there's any varnish build-up. If there is then it's possible other areas of the carbs are in need of cleaning as well. Often overlooked are the needle jets. These control the midrange mix. They have rows of tiny holes down their sides to feed air in. If those are clogged, the bike will run rich .....
Let me relate to you a small tale about my buddy's 1980 SPII. When he first got it fixed up and running, it was running very rich and the carbs would randomly overflow and belch fuel all over the place. The rich running was very odd because he had aftermarket pipes and pods, and the jetting was still stock. He swore up and down to me that he had thoroughly cleaned the carbs and replaced every part in them. Well, once I finally got a look inside them, that claim proved to be untrue. His first big mistake was with the floats. He had replaced the original brass floats with plastic ones but attempted to set them to the brass float spec (27.3mm) instead of the 22mm plastic float spec. Now, a 27.3mm setting would be much leaner than 22mm, but in order to achieve it, he had to bend the float tang at a very sharp angle. It wasn't contacting and operating the float needle correctly like this so the bowls were overfilling, sometimes to the point that gas poured out of the carbs.
His next big mistake was with the needle jets. When I removed them, they were all black, gummed up down the sides, and all the little air holes were plugged, lol. Despite what he said, he had never cleaned them, never even touched them. So, new, correct brass floats set correctly, cleaned needle jets, and the carbs have worked fine ever since. And now they could be properly re-jetted as well, and they have been.
Let me relate to you a small tale about my buddy's 1980 SPII. When he first got it fixed up and running, it was running very rich and the carbs would randomly overflow and belch fuel all over the place. The rich running was very odd because he had aftermarket pipes and pods, and the jetting was still stock. He swore up and down to me that he had thoroughly cleaned the carbs and replaced every part in them. Well, once I finally got a look inside them, that claim proved to be untrue. His first big mistake was with the floats. He had replaced the original brass floats with plastic ones but attempted to set them to the brass float spec (27.3mm) instead of the 22mm plastic float spec. Now, a 27.3mm setting would be much leaner than 22mm, but in order to achieve it, he had to bend the float tang at a very sharp angle. It wasn't contacting and operating the float needle correctly like this so the bowls were overfilling, sometimes to the point that gas poured out of the carbs.
His next big mistake was with the needle jets. When I removed them, they were all black, gummed up down the sides, and all the little air holes were plugged, lol. Despite what he said, he had never cleaned them, never even touched them. So, new, correct brass floats set correctly, cleaned needle jets, and the carbs have worked fine ever since. And now they could be properly re-jetted as well, and they have been.
Getting accustomed to any new bike is a learning curve for us all, or maybe just me.
It is below freezing this morning thus I expect Buzzy is not going to be happy with starting.
After a few tries though, he kicks to life and settles into a nice idle. I turn away to stow the cover and to my surprise, I hear a crash behind me. The kickstand has somehow given way to gravity and Buzzy fell upon his left side. (On a side note (see what I did there?) the bike dies when laying on its side after about 5 seconds...)
Luckily, I am able to lift said dead machine back to its upright state. Unluckily, I find the clutch lever is broken.
Back on the lucky side. Brahma said he would pull Buzzy's load today and I made it to work without further issue. Now, where to get a replacement lever?
It is below freezing this morning thus I expect Buzzy is not going to be happy with starting.
After a few tries though, he kicks to life and settles into a nice idle. I turn away to stow the cover and to my surprise, I hear a crash behind me. The kickstand has somehow given way to gravity and Buzzy fell upon his left side. (On a side note (see what I did there?) the bike dies when laying on its side after about 5 seconds...)
Luckily, I am able to lift said dead machine back to its upright state. Unluckily, I find the clutch lever is broken.
Back on the lucky side. Brahma said he would pull Buzzy's load today and I made it to work without further issue. Now, where to get a replacement lever?
Hmm. I remember writing on another thread that the XS side-stand doesn't fill me with confidence. Maybe asking a lot to trust the side-stand with the engine running - they do shoogle around a lot at tick-over. Add in any slight unfavourable gradient . . .
But you seem quite philosophical about the incident?
Respect for using the bike in such cold weather.
But you seem quite philosophical about the incident?
Respect for using the bike in such cold weather.
Being a traveling Story Teller makes one adjust their perspective a lot...
I think in the future I will use the center stand for warmups. At least until I get a more reliable kickstand. This one was suggested on another forum...
Well POOP!
When it fell, it hit Pretty Pillion's car door to which she is none to happy. She reminded me that I have done more damage to her 2008 Hyundai than she has since new. I went to move Buzzy to the parking spot next to where it fell; this would put it slightly down hill. I would then move her car to the spot where I park the bikes. When I tried to move Buzzy, I realize it is in gear. Well dud, it must have been knock into gear during the tip over. Yep, that was it and... the shift lever is now pushed in to the header pipe. Poop again!!!
I think I can bend it back correctly. Should I try it on the bike or take it off to bend it?
On a happy note, the clutch lever arrived tonight as did the new grommets, EBC brake pads, Fork oil, engine oil and fork brace. Now if I can just figure out how to keep the sunlight around a few more hours...
When it fell, it hit Pretty Pillion's car door to which she is none to happy. She reminded me that I have done more damage to her 2008 Hyundai than she has since new. I went to move Buzzy to the parking spot next to where it fell; this would put it slightly down hill. I would then move her car to the spot where I park the bikes. When I tried to move Buzzy, I realize it is in gear. Well dud, it must have been knock into gear during the tip over. Yep, that was it and... the shift lever is now pushed in to the header pipe. Poop again!!!
I think I can bend it back correctly. Should I try it on the bike or take it off to bend it?
On a happy note, the clutch lever arrived tonight as did the new grommets, EBC brake pads, Fork oil, engine oil and fork brace. Now if I can just figure out how to keep the sunlight around a few more hours...
I'd take it off. Never was big on bending stuff on a splined shaft.
I was thinking that too, thanks for confirmation guys. I have a vice at work that should help me get it straight again. I will look at it in the sunlight tomorrow if I get home before sunset.
Been there done that
Yes Clutch lever
Yes Gear pedal
And how about blinkers yellow lens and tank dent ?
I had a self folding strange kick stand spring setup that when putting the bike up straight a clonk was heard and the stand slammed up
One got used to it putting the foot on it parking but it stopped working on the last bike it did not pull it up all the way
So I rebuilt it .But not a perfect design from Yamaha .
I can see it is the welded type gear pedal so be careful not stress the weld it can crack
Clamping off the weld and bend it or hammer on the outside will work I do believe also keeping the hole OK
Yes Clutch lever
Yes Gear pedal
And how about blinkers yellow lens and tank dent ?
I had a self folding strange kick stand spring setup that when putting the bike up straight a clonk was heard and the stand slammed up
One got used to it putting the foot on it parking but it stopped working on the last bike it did not pull it up all the way
So I rebuilt it .But not a perfect design from Yamaha .
I can see it is the welded type gear pedal so be careful not stress the weld it can crack
Clamping off the weld and bend it or hammer on the outside will work I do believe also keeping the hole OK
Two steps forward, one step back.
First task was to fix the bent shift lever. I noticed the lever was leaking some oil...
It came off fairly easy though. I see quite a bit of wrong way bend here.
A little gentle persuasion with a two pound ball ping is in order.
Nice and straight now; mostly.
Straight doesn't work, needs more persuasion.
Awe yes then, ugly I admit but it does function with this improvised shape.
First task was to fix the bent shift lever. I noticed the lever was leaking some oil...
It came off fairly easy though. I see quite a bit of wrong way bend here.
A little gentle persuasion with a two pound ball ping is in order.
Nice and straight now; mostly.
Straight doesn't work, needs more persuasion.
Awe yes then, ugly I admit but it does function with this improvised shape.
Step two is to replace the clutch lever.
Luckily my 10mm was ready and waiting.
Disconnecting the clutch cable was easy enough.
Getting the bolt out was fairly easy too. Nice and tight with no play like I have seen on other posts. I understand that the hole will develop play at some point though.
The new clutch lever fit like it was made for this...
I then adjusted both the clutch handle and brake handle to suit my reach and went on to fire Buzzy up. Started right away.
I did notice that the left front indicator stock base is broken. It is still sturdy though and the blinker works. The back stock is also bent slightly and its blinker works as well.
Now, for the step back; the bike fell against the car as mentioned before. I incorrectly thought the left bar end struck the car door but it turns out it was the right bar and mirror that hit the mid area of the door. The right mirror is loose. I tightened it up easily enough. However, the brake light switch no longer works. The foot pedal does though and the brake hand lever did two weeks ago when the bike passed inspection. I found no obvious broken issue with the right grip assembly but darkness has once more fallen so I will look it over later.
I rode the bike around the neighborhood and it seems as good as it was prior to the tip over.
Luckily my 10mm was ready and waiting.
Disconnecting the clutch cable was easy enough.
Getting the bolt out was fairly easy too. Nice and tight with no play like I have seen on other posts. I understand that the hole will develop play at some point though.
The new clutch lever fit like it was made for this...
I then adjusted both the clutch handle and brake handle to suit my reach and went on to fire Buzzy up. Started right away.
I did notice that the left front indicator stock base is broken. It is still sturdy though and the blinker works. The back stock is also bent slightly and its blinker works as well.
Now, for the step back; the bike fell against the car as mentioned before. I incorrectly thought the left bar end struck the car door but it turns out it was the right bar and mirror that hit the mid area of the door. The right mirror is loose. I tightened it up easily enough. However, the brake light switch no longer works. The foot pedal does though and the brake hand lever did two weeks ago when the bike passed inspection. I found no obvious broken issue with the right grip assembly but darkness has once more fallen so I will look it over later.
I rode the bike around the neighborhood and it seems as good as it was prior to the tip over.
...and pretty pillion's door?
That first bend you straightened was ment to be there. needed to be bent out from the bike at the spline point near the weld
