Here's a shot of both sides. The spacer is right on the bearing on both sides. When thinking of heat should i heat the bearings or try to heat the spacer?
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Crabby's Build
- Thread starter CrabbyCustoms
- Start date
It looks to me like there is a small “ridge” between the spacer and the bearing! Makes me think a couple of things
1. Is it the right bearing size?
2. Is it the right spacer ?
3. The spacer and the bearing should have same ID.
When seating the bearing it should rest on a “ledge” preventing you to insert it to deep, I have a feeling the width of the bearings is too big.
Heat the spacer and tap on it if possible with a steel driver
1. Is it the right bearing size?
2. Is it the right spacer ?
3. The spacer and the bearing should have same ID.
When seating the bearing it should rest on a “ledge” preventing you to insert it to deep, I have a feeling the width of the bearings is too big.
Heat the spacer and tap on it if possible with a steel driver
Only thing that comes to mind is there are some XS (not 650) front hubs that are narrower?
XS650 dims
I purchased the bearings at XS650Direct/Mike's XS. They're labeled correctly 6303, 6304 and 6305.
I removed the spacer myself, previously it fit properly.
They appear to be the same ID.
I had the same thought that the bearing width was too wide but since the spacer is between the bearings and the bearing sits on the ledge, the width of it doesn't matter or does it?
I heated it and tapped, it's really wedged.
Thanks for the photo. When I disassembled the wheel originally the spacer seemed to fit the hub correctly.
Mine measures fine.
If it's because the spacer is cocked and wedged, taking a bolt or spare axle and grounding a taper into it might be your best bet.
did you recheck with a caliber ? I haven't bought any bearings from Mikes, I order from SKF or other known brands, they are normally make differently,
like d x D x B, which is d=inside diameter, D outside diameter and B = width.
i can only think it's the bearing, try if you can tap a small screwdriver in between the spacer and the bearing all way around to gain a little gab.
Based on what you already done i have a feeling it's going to be a pain in the a..
Good luck - i don't think i can be of much help although i would have loved to get my hands on that thing and figure it out
like d x D x B, which is d=inside diameter, D outside diameter and B = width.
i can only think it's the bearing, try if you can tap a small screwdriver in between the spacer and the bearing all way around to gain a little gab.
Based on what you already done i have a feeling it's going to be a pain in the a..
Good luck - i don't think i can be of much help although i would have loved to get my hands on that thing and figure it out
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate the suggestions. I'll keep you posted on the solution.
If the spacer's that tight then (at least) one of the two bearing's outer races isn't seated, either all the way or it's cocked, guess I'd get a socket and do the tap all the way around the race til you hear the tone change. Mark the bore on both sides before you start see if moving one bearing in also moves the other out.
Sorry to say the bearings are often sacrificed in removal. With an under sized rod inserted part way hammer sideways on the end sticking out, the spacer WILL move sideways, then you can get the bearings out.
Sorry to say the bearings are often sacrificed in removal. With an under sized rod inserted part way hammer sideways on the end sticking out, the spacer WILL move sideways, then you can get the bearings out.
Thank you, I will try this. At this point i'm not worried about getting new bearings, I just want to figure out where i went wrong. This has been the greatest learning experience.
Fun fact; Buell wheels only seat one outer race the other floats in the hub bore.
Yeah I don't get that either. They are also notorious for eating wheel bearings like pop corn.
Actually when I redid a Buell front I spent the time to measure the hub's bore end to bore end distance, and machined the spacer to match, no floating outer race, shrug.
Yeah I don't get that either. They are also notorious for eating wheel bearings like pop corn.
Actually when I redid a Buell front I spent the time to measure the hub's bore end to bore end distance, and machined the spacer to match, no floating outer race, shrug.
I continued heating the hub today and using a small screwdriver to tap between the spacer and bearing and was able to move the bearings slightly to the point of the inner races can now spin freely but it doesn't seem to want to go any further and i'm beating up the edge of the spacer.
So now the bearings spin but not independent of eachother, the spacer is still making some contact to the bearings so if I spin one bearing the spacer and opposite bearing spin with it.
Does this matter? can I ride like this?
Thanks!
So now the bearings spin but not independent of eachother, the spacer is still making some contact to the bearings so if I spin one bearing the spacer and opposite bearing spin with it.
Does this matter? can I ride like this?
Thanks!
good question, guess as long as the wheel spins freely after you tightened the axle nut you should be ok.
When the axle nut is tightened, it draws everything together, spacers, inner races... all of it drawn together to form one rigid cross piece between the forks. That's the structure (for want of a better word) that the wheel and outer bearing races rotate around. So yeah... that's pretty much normal, as long as, like Niels pointed out, the wheel spins freely.
That's great news! And thanks again for all of the help!
Now that I have my bearings installed I'm attempting to lace my wheels, starting with the rear wheel. I'm confidant my lacing pattern is correct due to my reference photos and the new spokes appear to match the old ones.
For the first attempt I laced both the inside and outside spokes on the drive side. I flipped the rim and started on the brake side, the first inside spoke fit into it’s rim hole easily but the first outside spoke is out of line by 1/4inch and the rim/hub is very stiff no movement in the spokes at all. I thought the problem might be that I needed to lace all of the inside spokes first then all of the outside so I started over.
But the outcome was exactly the same? the last outside spoke won't align properly? I have the nuts as loose as possible. All the spokes fit in with ease, they're all the same length within the rim. I have movement side to side but no movement up and down.
Any idea what I might have done wrong?
Once again thanks in advance!
For the first attempt I laced both the inside and outside spokes on the drive side. I flipped the rim and started on the brake side, the first inside spoke fit into it’s rim hole easily but the first outside spoke is out of line by 1/4inch and the rim/hub is very stiff no movement in the spokes at all. I thought the problem might be that I needed to lace all of the inside spokes first then all of the outside so I started over.
But the outcome was exactly the same? the last outside spoke won't align properly? I have the nuts as loose as possible. All the spokes fit in with ease, they're all the same length within the rim. I have movement side to side but no movement up and down.
Any idea what I might have done wrong?
Once again thanks in advance!
I've done this. Compare your new spokes to the old and you'll find OEM have a bit more bend to the head on the outies.
You did sort innies and outies?
I've solved by tapping in a bit of bend where the spoke shank crosses the hub OD.
On one I used a TX750 big brake rear hub, 18" rim and for sure on that wheel had to add a bit of bend to the spokes.
Not 100% you have the pattern? Is it just the very last spoke or the last set of outies that's the problem?
All the innies both sides nipples just threaded, so the wheel remains pretty floppy then same with the outies, occasionally shaking dropping the wheel a bit.
IE stand the wheel up last spoke up tap on bench it settles the hub downwards so the last spoke will go in. to move it around to aid spoke insertion. Now start tightening nipples.
You did sort innies and outies?
I've solved by tapping in a bit of bend where the spoke shank crosses the hub OD.
On one I used a TX750 big brake rear hub, 18" rim and for sure on that wheel had to add a bit of bend to the spokes.
Not 100% you have the pattern? Is it just the very last spoke or the last set of outies that's the problem?
All the innies both sides nipples just threaded, so the wheel remains pretty floppy then same with the outies, occasionally shaking dropping the wheel a bit.
IE stand the wheel up last spoke up tap on bench it settles the hub downwards so the last spoke will go in. to move it around to aid spoke insertion. Now start tightening nipples.
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Thanks! Yes it's the last set of 9 outies that won't line up.
So I will tap in a bit of a bend at the hub. Should i do it to both sides of outies (all 18)? or just the final 9 spokes? It will need a fairly big bend to fit.
How did you go about bending them?
Thanks again.
Not sure if I do it like everyone else but I like putting the spokes in both sides then finding the correct pattern. I’d be lying if I said I always got it right the first time. I’ve not done one of those wheels but I love that multi spoked pattern. Tighten then to snug then onto the truing stand. Just make sure the hub is centered to the rim
