Thanks! I will use this for reference when doing my front wheel.
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Crabby's Build
- Thread starter CrabbyCustoms
- Start date
Not as much as you think? yes all the outies. Isn't spoking fun? LOL
Hah found it!
Hah found it!
Thats A nice build BTW
Hi,
I'm still struggling with the rear wheel. I built a jig and slightly bent all the outside spokes but they are still creating too much tension on the rim and I can only get 5 out of the final 9 spokes into the rim.
So I'm thinking of going back and using all of the original spokes. I bead blasted a spoke today and it looks really nice, it actually matches the finish of the hub/rim perfectly.
My question is, since this is a metal spoke (I checked with a magnet) will it simply rust? Here's a photo of the original spokes, one refinished one original.
the original spokes are corroded but not really rusty?
I'm still struggling with the rear wheel. I built a jig and slightly bent all the outside spokes but they are still creating too much tension on the rim and I can only get 5 out of the final 9 spokes into the rim.
So I'm thinking of going back and using all of the original spokes. I bead blasted a spoke today and it looks really nice, it actually matches the finish of the hub/rim perfectly.
My question is, since this is a metal spoke (I checked with a magnet) will it simply rust? Here's a photo of the original spokes, one refinished one original.
the original spokes are corroded but not really rusty?
Short answer is YES, it will Rust
The original spokes are plated, either zinc or chromate to prevent corrosion. They're most the most durable of coatings and so will deteriorate with age.
You have now blasted all that off and left bare steel so it will rust quickly.
Mikes XS sells spoke sets, sorry I haven't been following your build so perhaps you've already gone that route.
The original spokes are plated, either zinc or chromate to prevent corrosion. They're most the most durable of coatings and so will deteriorate with age.
You have now blasted all that off and left bare steel so it will rust quickly.
Mikes XS sells spoke sets, sorry I haven't been following your build so perhaps you've already gone that route.
Thanks for the reply. That's good to know. Yes the spokes I've been struggling with are the Mikes XS ones. When comparing the original outside spokes to the Mikes XS ones the difference in bend is visible. Thanks again!
Are you using a stock rim? If not there could be enough diameter difference in the spoke area that requires a bit more length.
Yes it's a stock rim. I'm thinking of checking with Buchanan's to see what their spokes cost?
I’ve bought my spokes from YamahaXS650.com and XS650 direct and never had an issue. I’m thinking you might have gotten the wrong set.
I found someone who was able to figure out what the problem is that i'm having with lacing my rear wheel, it's called "Offset", the placement of the hub within the rim. Apparently i was supposed to measure the offset before I disassembled the original wheel? oopps!
Does anyone happen to know what the offset measurement is on a 16 inch spoke rear wheel?
Thanks!
Does anyone happen to know what the offset measurement is on a 16 inch spoke rear wheel?
Thanks!
Howdy Crabby! The fellas here all know way more than I do about these bikes. So welcome and imho you have come to the right place.
My only contributing addition is that especially in cramped space be very cautious about fire. I see in pics many nice things, and it's clean, good. But I did not notice an extinguisher or a bucket of water nor a water hose nor a bucket of sand. All these things can be life changing in an instant. Looks like there's only one escape route... and I imagine you're under a dwelling. a fire would ruin everything. Use caution, please.
My only contributing addition is that especially in cramped space be very cautious about fire. I see in pics many nice things, and it's clean, good. But I did not notice an extinguisher or a bucket of water nor a water hose nor a bucket of sand. All these things can be life changing in an instant. Looks like there's only one escape route... and I imagine you're under a dwelling. a fire would ruin everything. Use caution, please.
I think the old manuals had a drawing of that. Others would know.
Thanks so much for the reminder. I do try to remind myself to be vigilant. I have lots of flammable liquids in the garage. I do also have two fire extinguishers at either end of the garage. Still like you say it happens in an instant.
I don't have a number for you but it's easy enough to figure out by doing a little measuring and math. The important thing to know is that the rear rim (front too actually) is centered over the spoke flanges on the hub. I lay a straight edge across the brake drum or disc and measure down to the edge of the rim. So, measure the width of your new rim and divide it in half. Then measure the width of the spoke flanges, outside to outside, and divide that in half. Finally, measure down from your straight edge laid across the brake drum to the outside of the near spoke flange ......
Add that to the 1/2 of the spoke flanges measurement to find the distance to the center of the flanges (and where the rim needs to be centered to). Now, subtract that 1/2 of the rim width measurement from this. That will give you a measurement to the side of the rim from the straight edge to get the rim centered over the spoke flanges.
Now, on an 18" flanged alloy rim, it's works out to no offset. The straight edge laid across the brake drum will just touch the outer edge of the rim. On a slightly wider TX750 rear hub, there is a slight offset, about 4mm .....
A 16" rim is wider than an 18" one no doubt, so you may end up with the straight edge hitting the rim first, and the space or "offset" being between the straight edge and the brake drum. No matter, it will still work. However much wider 1/2 of the rim width is compared to 1/2 of the spoke flange width + the distance from the outside of the near flange to the straight edge will be the measurement down to the brake drum.
Add that to the 1/2 of the spoke flanges measurement to find the distance to the center of the flanges (and where the rim needs to be centered to). Now, subtract that 1/2 of the rim width measurement from this. That will give you a measurement to the side of the rim from the straight edge to get the rim centered over the spoke flanges.
Now, on an 18" flanged alloy rim, it's works out to no offset. The straight edge laid across the brake drum will just touch the outer edge of the rim. On a slightly wider TX750 rear hub, there is a slight offset, about 4mm .....
A 16" rim is wider than an 18" one no doubt, so you may end up with the straight edge hitting the rim first, and the space or "offset" being between the straight edge and the brake drum. No matter, it will still work. However much wider 1/2 of the rim width is compared to 1/2 of the spoke flange width + the distance from the outside of the near flange to the straight edge will be the measurement down to the brake drum.
What I do is use a plum-bob. The center of the rim should be centered on the the hub between the spokes. Works on front front or back rims.
If you think about it it makes sense.
If you think about it it makes sense.
Yes all the XS650 rims are centered.
I'm an unrepentant reprobate but I've laced dunno 10-15 XS wheels and have never had a need to "Center" them. Stock rims, wide rims it's always the same; Install the spokes, slowly bring in all the nipples to the same amount of thread showing (or no thread showing
) then finish up by tightening for tension and selective adjustment to get rid of any wiggles, double check all are tight, done.
I'm an unrepentant reprobate but I've laced dunno 10-15 XS wheels and have never had a need to "Center" them. Stock rims, wide rims it's always the same; Install the spokes, slowly bring in all the nipples to the same amount of thread showing (or no thread showing
) then finish up by tightening for tension and selective adjustment to get rid of any wiggles, double check all are tight, done.
Agree. A properly made spoke set will automatically center the rim where it needs to be as long as you initially tighten them up so they all show the same depth in the nipple.Yes all the XS650 rims are centered.
I'm an unrepentant reprobate but I've laced dunno 10-15 XS wheels and have never had a need to "Center" them. Stock rims, wide rims it's always the same; Install the spokes, slowly bring in all the nipples to the same amount of thread showing (or no thread showing
I use the center of the hole for the the valve stem for the center of the rim. Center it on the hub between the spokes and zero my dial indicator there. Then just adjust the rest of the rim for zero.
My method may be overkill but what does that hurt.
gggGarys method will also work just fine. Neither one needs 2x4s and a tape measure.
My method may be overkill but what does that hurt.
gggGarys method will also work just fine. Neither one needs 2x4s and a tape measure.
I use a dial indicator for the true as well. For the up and down run-out though, I just use a pointer. The bottom of the rim where the tire seats is too rough for a dial gauge .....
I think the factory spec for both of these is 2mm or about .079". With the dial gauge, I'm usually able to get the true within .010" pretty easily.
I think the factory spec for both of these is 2mm or about .079". With the dial gauge, I'm usually able to get the true within .010" pretty easily.
Mark the joining seam on the rim and don't try to chase the wiggle there.
Long ago one of the Buchanan wheel builders, had a wheel building video, his major theme was don't over think, over precise this. It'll be fine.
Of the wheels I've built only one needed a bit of work during a tire change, I had hit a 4" rock in the road at night. It now wiggles "a bit" where the rock hit, but it's still fine, that was 10K miles ago.
PS I think all my wheels have been built with MikesXS stainless spokes. Yes the head bend is sometimes a bit of a issue but it's never created a problem. The worst one was a wide rim on a "big brake" XS750 rear hub. Since the spokes weren't really intended for that wheel build I had to add some bend to get everything lined up.
I'm also the guy that's "adjusted" spoke holes to get the angle I wanted on "generic" predrilled rims.
Long ago one of the Buchanan wheel builders, had a wheel building video, his major theme was don't over think, over precise this. It'll be fine.
Of the wheels I've built only one needed a bit of work during a tire change, I had hit a 4" rock in the road at night. It now wiggles "a bit" where the rock hit, but it's still fine, that was 10K miles ago.
PS I think all my wheels have been built with MikesXS stainless spokes. Yes the head bend is sometimes a bit of a issue but it's never created a problem. The worst one was a wide rim on a "big brake" XS750 rear hub. Since the spokes weren't really intended for that wheel build I had to add some bend to get everything lined up.
I'm also the guy that's "adjusted" spoke holes to get the angle I wanted on "generic" predrilled rims.
