First Bike - No Idea What's Going on

Raymond

likes to play with old motorbikes
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The bike also dies when I shift into first gear, I would assume that points towards a clutch issue but I wouldnt really know where to start diagnosing that kind of issue.

Looks like you need to have a look inside the carbs. As the others have said, it's not really very difficult. Main thing is to be methodical and use tools that fit. If you don't have the tools, buy them - you'll use them again and again. If you don't have JIS screwdrivers, definitely buy some.

Engine stops when you shift into first sounds like clutch is dragging. It might free off if you pull the clutch lever and kick the engine over. While there is resistance to your kick, the clutch is dragging, when your kick swings right through with no effort you've released the drag. You might need to adjust the clutch, in fact you will definitely need to adjust the clutch from time to time, so look for the how to threads in the tech section.

You're getting there!
 

teamWicked

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Leaving a points ignition set up key on when the engine isn't running can burn out a coil.
Literally had a mushroom cloud of smoke leave a Kawie coil while I was trouble shooting one time. Sure wish I had a video of that.
R.73e65cf2760d0cb74bae4045e862305f

I don't know if this works on a negative ground system....
 

Silviculturalist

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46th Georgia

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PS where in Wisconsin? There is a new XS2 project going on in Sheboygan.
(Wisconsin's' first transgender city. ;^)
https://www.xs650.com/threads/project’72.61413/
2 XS2's just took up residence in my shed alsoMy
PS where in Wisconsin? There is a new XS2 project going on in Sheboygan.
(Wisconsin's' first transgender city. ;^)
https://www.xs650.com/threads/project’72.61413/
2 XS2's just took up residence in my shed also.
My 81' Spl. identifies as Kenny Roberts' race bike. Will it be recognized as such in Sheboygan?
 

Silviculturalist

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Okay, so I made the mistake of putting this bike away for the winter and taking it out just a week or so ago. When it was put away it ran just not very well, my plan was to get the idle set properly when I took it back out and to my dismay the bike doesn't start now. The only glaring issue I can find is that the timing is now off but I cannot adjust it far enough in order to time it properly, my points are still set correctly though. What could cause the timing to slip just from sitting and what can I try to do to fix it?
 

Silviculturalist

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Okay, so I made the mistake of putting this bike away for the winter and taking it out just a week or so ago. When it was put away it ran just not very well, my plan was to get the idle set properly when I took it back out and to my dismay the bike doesn't start now. The only glaring issue I can find is that the timing is now off but I cannot adjust it far enough in order to time it properly, my points are still gapped correctly though. What could cause the timing to slip just from sitting and what can I try to do to fix it?
 

Jim

Beyond the edge is the unknown. Here be Dragons
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What could cause the timing to slip just from sitting and what can I try to do to fix it?
Corrosion on the points contacts if it was stored somewhere with humid air.
Clean the contacts off with 4-600 sandpaper, wipe clean with solvent of choice.... acetone, thinner...et al.
 

Silviculturalist

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Corrosion on the points contacts if it was stored somewhere with humid air.
Clean the contacts off with 4-600 sandpaper, wipe clean with solvent of choice.... acetone, thinner...et al.
Cleaned the contacts and re-gapped the points. I was actually able to time it correctly this time and got the bike running for a minute. When it wouldn't start again I re-checked the timing and had the same issue, test light goes on way out past the TDC mark on the stator and I couldn't adjust it back far enough
 

gggGary

Simplest truths meet the sternest resistance F D
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Cleaned the contacts and re-gapped the points. I was actually able to time it correctly this time and got the bike running for a minute. When it wouldn't start again I re-checked the timing and had the same issue, test light goes on way out past the TDC mark on the stator and I couldn't adjust it back far enough
Sounds like the advance rod is sticking, common, and an easy fix.
 

Silviculturalist

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Alright I've been putting a lot of time into this thing recently, I think many of my issues come from the previous owners not wanting to spend the money to or were just to lazy to fix things properly. I took out the advance rod and greased it BUT now I have the opposite problem, my timing is so far retarded that I cannot advance it far enough. Looking through some other threads I saw someone mention that it could be a worn out cam chain and that a way to check it is to set your stator mark to TDC and check the notch that the pin on the advance rod is straight up or down, and well mine is not(pic). My cam chain tensioner is set flush which according to the manual is correct. Am I moving in the right direction or could I be missing something??
 

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5twins

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You're looking at the wrong pin. There's another that locks the advance unit backing plate onto the cam and that's the one you look at for this. You won't be able to see it with the backing plate mounted .....

AdvancePinHole2.jpg


AdvancePinHole.jpg


But if you're lucky, you won't have to remove the advance. This locating pin fits into a slot on the back of the advance unit .....

Advance Pin Notch.jpg


Above the slot, there's a pin pressed into the backing plate to stop the locating pin from falling out .....

Pin Retension Peg.jpg


..... and this pin shows through on the outside .....

Pin Retension Peg-Front.jpg


If you're lucky, the notched ring that holds the backing plate on won't be covering it .....

Advance Pin Front.jpg
 

Silviculturalist

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Alright I tooled around with this bike a lot and now it's timed and will hold the timing. So thats great. My main issue now is the carburetors, which is where im going to struggle the most. The left one has a vaccum leak pretty obviously, when I plug the top hole and push the slide up it takes about 2-3 seconds to fall, the right side takes 5-6 seconds doing the same thing. Both have what look like new diaphragms but not quite the correct diaphragms, carburetor stuff is a bit over my head so im looking for some help once again. Attaching some pics of the current diaphragms and top of the carb too

Also worth mentioning I took both carbs apart and thoroughly cleaned them with carb cleaner already
 

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Wingedwheel

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Careful not to get the carb cleaner on those diaphragms as it will shrivel them. Do you know which set of carbs you have? I’m asking because I have a 72 and my PO had changed to a later set and it took me a minute to figure out which kits to order although if they aren’t too dirty sometimes all they need is a good cleaning. I also didn’t notice if anyone ever answered your question about the leaky forks. It is really easy to replace the seals and fluid. Do you have a manual? You can find those here. https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/
 

Silviculturalist

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Careful not to get the carb cleaner on those diaphragms as it will shrivel them. Do you know which set of carbs you have? I’m asking because I have a 72 and my PO had changed to a later set and it took me a minute to figure out which kits to order although if they aren’t too dirty sometimes all they need is a good cleaning. I also didn’t notice if anyone ever answered your question about the leaky forks. It is really easy to replace the seals and fluid. Do you have a manual? You can find those here. https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/
I just know theyre BS38's, I dont know if it goes any deeper than that. These are very clean though the PO fixed them up right. I've got a Clymer manual but for someone like me that isnt very familiar with a lot of this is only helps so much. Fork seals will get replaced once the bike can drive reliably, going one problem at a time lol
 

Silviculturalist

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Diaphragms are JBM Have a read up on them Here http://jbmindustries.com/

Post some pics of the Bell end of the Carbs and that will tell us.
Heres a few pics of both ends, if you need better ones just let me know. Also i'm not sure what the deal with those red caps are. PO put them there. They're on a nipple and when I looked through my manual I couldnt seem to find any hoses or tubes that ran to them, however it didnt show them as being capped by anything either. I just havent touched them for now because I was scared I might introduce bad juju
 

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