Thank you. I'll look into sourcing the parts.I have all the parts you need, although I’m in the UK and I’m sure any number of the wonderful gents on here more local to you could offer exactly what you need.
Thank you. I'll look into sourcing the parts.I have all the parts you need, although I’m in the UK and I’m sure any number of the wonderful gents on here more local to you could offer exactly what you need.
Looks as though the slave piston is connected to the worm actuator... so yes, adjusting the screw might still fix it. Replace the fluid (since you mentioned it's milky) and once you have a firm lever, adjust the screw in until you feel contact to the pushrod, then back it off just a hair. I'm guessin' it will help.Yeah, it was converted to a hydraulic clutch. So adjusting the clutch screw might not resolve the issue?
I'll work on adjusting the lock nut/JIS to resolve the clutch issue and keep note of my adjustments.Hi again
By your response I assume that there are the mentioned lock nut and JIS ( Phillips Screw )
And adjustments make a difference.
Is a little more clockwise adjustment possible ?
But it can be something not known on the inside
I would go for it . Counting hos much say a halt circle .To begi with and then another half circle
If you keep a record of how much --- you can turn it back again. The same amount.
If nothing happens.
Are there a reservoir for the clutch and enough fluid. ?
The red thing on top with an Allen head may well be an adjuster I have never seen it. I dont know
I think it was mentioned that it can be a bit tricky to find neutral especially hot days.
I have that to.
View attachment 172958
Neutral light. Switch
Behind the cylinders on top of the block it usually sits please look at the enclosed picture
If it is there it is a one wire series circuit to make a lamp I believe
Not sure if it differs on various models. ( So a little careful is best )
That Switch Closes the circuit with the lamp to ground when the neutral is in.
A fuse + a lamp holder with lamp --to the top of the Switch a small Phillips head I believe is what is needed.
The wiring loom has that wire as stock if I remember correctly it sits on the alternator stator wire.
I might still be there.
Thank you. I'll get to working on this and see if I can get this resolved.Looks as though the slave piston is connected to the worm actuator... so yes, adjusting the screw might still fix it. Replace the fluid (since you mentioned it's milky) and once you have a firm lever, adjust the screw in until you feel contact to the pushrod, then back it off just a hair. I'm guessin' it will help.
Should I be trying to get the bolt circled in yellow between the two points you drew?Took this pic from the HHB link you put up. Something they didn't explain in their instructions. You need to get that slave down to the point the worm actuator is greater than 90° when the lever is relaxed. The closer you get to the lines I drew, the better your action (travel) will be.
View attachment 172961
Geometry. The point of greatest travel is at exactly 90°. So you want it to rest at the bottom line...> 90°.... go through the 90° point and stop at the < 90° point (top line). That will get you the most rotational travel possible which will give you the most in and out movement of the pushrod.Should I be trying to get the bolt circled in yellow between the two points you drew?
The previous owner converted the mechanical clutch cable to hydraulic.
Yeah, it was converted to a hydraulic clutch. So adjusting the clutch screw might not resolve the issue?
My forearm was killing me the other day from pulling this lever. Might have been because I had to keep it compressed for so long while trying to shift gears.Being hydraulic, I don't think lever effort is an issue. That's the whole point of going hydraulic (easy lever pull). But, as Jim has pointed out, You'll need to get the range of motion on the worm arm correct for best clutch action.
Hey Superjet,Would just need a perch, lever and cable. As long as the cover isn’t modified where the cable goes thru that should be it. Worm looks complete but cant see if the ball bearing is present inside. Maybe thats why he is having a hard time shifting, is there a ball bearing inside the work gear assembly where the blue line is pointing to in your pic above?
The hole is existing. Without going back through that link... I believe the only change made was threading that hole. And that's not a stopper. Going back to a stock cable setup should be easily doable.Hey Superjet,
That’s an image Jim pulled from a website I provided that covers installing and bleeding the after market hydraulic clutch. I’m pretty sure to install the hydraulic clutch a hole has to be made through the cover, based on the website tutorial: https://www.hughshandbuilt.com/2012/03/14/xs650-hydraulic-clutch-conversion-install-instructions/