That Niche Cycle link says the screw is aftermarket. It may not be possible to get all the stuff from one place unless you go with the $5 Yamaha plugs.
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Fuel/air screw question
- Thread starter Beck Built Fab
- Start date
My bad. Niche showed it as OEM when I linked it.... when you click on the link, it's not. Go figure...
Your dried plugs might be okay. Mine are kind of dried too but they're still a tight fit. But if you're going to place an order to a dealer anyway... Def. get oem screws from a dealer. You'll also want that o-ring, which is included.
Beck Built Fab
Custom XS650 chopper parts!
I ordered some new screws. We'll see if that helps at all.
However, the head on one of the old ones is pretty stripped out. I don't think I'll get it out without totally stripping it. Anyone ever have to tap one of these guys out? I have tiny drill bits and extractors, so that's not an issue.
However, the head on one of the old ones is pretty stripped out. I don't think I'll get it out without totally stripping it. Anyone ever have to tap one of these guys out? I have tiny drill bits and extractors, so that's not an issue.
On a different bike with a BS34 I had to use a Dremel tool to keep re-cutting the slot. Half a turn, make a new slot, half a turn, make a new slot....until it turned freely. A cylindrical bit will make the best slot. Back then we didn't have good mix screw replacement info but I lucked onto a carb that was being parted out...because it wouldn't work no matter what anyone tried to do with it 
I would not use extractors. Especially on brass since they will prob just expand it and make it tighter.
A screwdriver that's a bit and a bit handle is a lot better than a regular screwdriver. The bit's faces are parallel at the tip instead of tapered, which makes a huge difference.
I would not use extractors. Especially on brass since they will prob just expand it and make it tighter.A screwdriver that's a bit and a bit handle is a lot better than a regular screwdriver. The bit's faces are parallel at the tip instead of tapered, which makes a huge difference.
Whut XJ sez! Use corrosion buster of some sort.
This trick may get you through, I've rescued several BS34's this way. Post #16
Carbs, carbs, carbs
As always don't JUST keep turning the screw OUT ,if you have movement also turn it back in a bit anytime the screw starts to bind. Blow out any swarf you have made, keep area juicy with lube.
A more drastic solution:
Yes (re)slotting using a cut off wheel in the dremel is expedient and works. To make it clear you will be slotting the idle screw tower on the carb body also.
here's a link http://www.xs650.com/threads/bs34-idle-mix-screw-issue-ideas-wanted.54337/
DO NOT try an easy out, that is about a sure way to ruin a carb body.
This trick may get you through, I've rescued several BS34's this way. Post #16
Carbs, carbs, carbs
As always don't JUST keep turning the screw OUT ,if you have movement also turn it back in a bit anytime the screw starts to bind. Blow out any swarf you have made, keep area juicy with lube.
A more drastic solution:
Yes (re)slotting using a cut off wheel in the dremel is expedient and works. To make it clear you will be slotting the idle screw tower on the carb body also.
here's a link http://www.xs650.com/threads/bs34-idle-mix-screw-issue-ideas-wanted.54337/
DO NOT try an easy out, that is about a sure way to ruin a carb body.
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Beck Built Fab
Custom XS650 chopper parts!
Awesome. Thanks for the tips guys!
The PO had already cut a new slot in the left side with a Dremel. I'll have to use Gary's method to cut a new slot since I don't have a Dremel at the moment.
My new screws should be here Tuesday though. Woohoo!
The PO had already cut a new slot in the left side with a Dremel. I'll have to use Gary's method to cut a new slot since I don't have a Dremel at the moment.
My new screws should be here Tuesday though. Woohoo!
