I don't quite understand peoples concerns on bleeding. it has a bleed nipple on the outside of the case under the stock clutch adjustment cover. I think it should be fairly straightforward.
hydro line came preassembled and exits the slave straight down. it does not fit through the cable hole without modification. I think it will just follow the alternate wires right out of the cover taking care to route around the chain. I don't think it will be a problem
Yup - I agree and would say that it looks like a really nice set-up indeed.
As to the concerns expressed about filling and bleeding the hydraulic system - not a problem. I'm sure that most people know how to do this, but just in case somebody may be apprehensive about it, here is a run-down on filling, bleeding and starting up a hydraulic brake or clutch system:
- take the top off the master cylinder up on the handlebar and open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder (or brake caliper) with a ring wrench, and leave the wrench on the nipple as you'll need it there a bit later;
- put a piece of clean, clear plastic tubing on the nipple and stick the other end in a jar that has enough NEW, CLEAN brake fluid in it to completely cover the end of the tubing;
- fill the master cylinder reservoir with NEW, CLEAN brake fluid - and KEEP IT FILLED throughout this operation (if you don't keep it filled, you will be doing it all over again);
- pump the clutch lever to push brake fluid down the line, into the slave cylinder and out the bleeder nipple (NOTE: you will not feel much resistance to pumping the lever - because all you are doing is pumping fluid down the hose at this point);
- at first, you'll see air bubbles coming out of the bleeder nipple and down the plastic tube into the jar - and then after some more pumps, you will see brake fluid coming out;
- KEEP the master cylinder reservoir full (it is handy to have a loyal assistant for this purpose - but make sure they do not spill brake fluid anywhere);
- once you see only clear fluid and no bubbles in the clear tubing, close the bleeder nipple firmly (but don't bust it off );
- pump the lever a couple more times to fill the slave cylinder (it probably was retracted when you started - but now you are making it move and so the lever will feel firmer than before) - and keep that reservoir filled;
- once the clutch is working - put the top back on the master cylinder and you are done like dinner. The bleeding is done - you can go ride now.
The only addition I would make to the installation would be to put a little rubber cap on the end of the nipple after you bleed it - to keep out dirt, road grime and ham sandwich debris that may be passing by. MikesXS sells a similar rubber nipple cap for the brake bleeder nipple which would fit perfect right on there.
If all goes well, you won't have to touch the system again for many years, although you really ought to change the fluid every couple of years or so because brake fluid is hygroscopic which means that it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and that can cause corrosion of caliper, slave and master cylinders and pistons.
Here are a couple of important cautions:
- NEVER spill brake fluid on anything you care about. It will ruin paint instantly and it gives some people a nasty rash. I cannot imagine what it would do to your eyes.... Anyhow, its best to drape your tank with a garbage bag - or remove it altogether.
- ALWAYS use fluid from a new unopened bottle of fluid. As I said, this stuff is hygroscopic and picks up water from just sitting around open (even if you do the lid up tightly. It is cheap and so using old fluid is simply not a good practice.
- CLEAN the top of the master cylinder reservoir carefully before you open it up - the clearances in hydraulic systems are very small and any dirt or crap will wreck seals quickly.
Pete
Last edited: