LED headlight conversions, ideas; good and bad

gggGary, nice work and documentation. Last week I had a quick try with an LED H4 bulb, the same as the one you are using with the big heat sink.
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The immediate problem I struck was it activated the reserve lighting unit. It was also a bit cramped in the headlight bucket because the power connector would not push right on. I solved this by filing away some of the solder on the H4 connectors which was quite excessive.
  • At approximately 1200rpm idle I observed 13.8V which is similar to your observation.
  • At 1500rpm the voltage was 14.2V which is what my regulator is set for.
  • On return from a 30 mile ride I was getting 14.2V at 1200rpm idle (I guess this is explained by the battery being fully topped up).
I am yet to test the LED at night because I need to sort the reserve light unit in a permanent manner rather than shorting it with a screw driver.
 
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Thanks Paul!
Yeah I need to deal with that reserve unit also. My reserve light was lit so I guess I'm not sure what beam I had in the on the bike tests, beams are reversed by the reserve unit? LOL
Guess I GOTTA sort that. Pretty sure a wired jumper will cure it. No reserve unit in the wattage test circuit.
In another post XSLeo sez; Unplug reserve lighting unit, jumper blue black and blue yellow wires on the harness side of the plug, done.

OK dealt with! the 79 reserve was same as the 77 referenced by XS Leo.
I had extra reserve units so just clipped the wires off one and soldered Y/Bl to Bl/B and taped them.
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at's a better now; the better LED; low beam.

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high beam, road test tonight!
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I'll change the other post n pics to reflect this later.
 
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Indeed - remarkable. I may have misunderstood something along the way but what about the fact that the XS alternator actually needs the high draw to function properly?
 
The low-wattage draw of those LEDs is much lower than I was expecting...
Me also! Low enough to make me wonder if the LED load is some sort of AC the ammeter isn't getting?
Just got back from "better LED" road test with true low hi beam comparo's I raised the headlight a bit more when I got back.
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I might be temped to remove a bit of the fin to see if it improves the "throw" some.
Couple pics from the broview H4 S5 model bulb installed in the royal star also a 7" reflector.
Low
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High note that the low is wider the high casts further ahead but at the expense of some width.
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Grizzled noted he installed a Broview, cut a hole in the back of the shell for extra room.
Pete the PMA type alternator needs some load or it stresses the regulator. The stock alternator has a superior variable output design so the lower draw is matched by lower output, no problems.
Note broview bulb model with braid cooling is the S5 NOT the S7
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Cool (literally!) - thanks!

I'm pretty good on mechanical stuff, but electrickery (as my Toaster Dad used to call it) remains....puzzling, to me.

Pete
 
Good chance I will take the Royal star out with an extra $3 bulb in a shell and do a direct comparo. From these shots and my seat of the pants feel having ridden both bikes the $25 dollar Broview is a better bulb than the $3.00, but that $3 unit is hands down better than the stock sealed beam. I did some further testing and will post results. Short version; even the "better" $3 LED is not as bright as the stock sealed beam. The Bro-view H4 S7 LED is the best bulb I have tested, and I have ridden behind one for at least 8,000 miles
(mostly daylight) As grizzled found out there is no easy way to get it into the stock shell.
Still have to assemble and try one of these ebay reflector assemblies in the stock mounts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/H6024-Pair-7-Head-Light-Housing-Round-Glass-Conversion-Lamp-Set/161697292384

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How do they fit into the stock XS650 headlight bucket Gary?

Despite the fact that it has two full sized H4 halogens and two substantial "cornering" lights, some of the ST1300 guys have been experimenting with much more powerful LED headlights and they do work great - BUT - a number of these devices have quite large "rear ends" which take up a fair bit of real estate in the front fairing (the ST doesn't have a "bucket" per se).
ST1300_Lights-off.JPG ST1300_Lights-ON.JPG
As I get older, I have found that the XS650 sure could use some help in the lighting dept. but I've noted that (at least for me) the stock XS650 headlight bucket is really just "leeettle beet" too shallow for the array of connections that needs to go inside it.

I'm going to start searching for a deeper 7" bucket as I don't think there is anything preventing installation of a deeper one. I know that Brassneck put a deeper bucket on his cafe bike - it looks great and likely makes the whole wiring issue a lot less painful. In my view, such a change would be virtually invisible except in a concours inspection, but it would be a big step ahead in serviceability.

Any suggestions on an alternative (deeper) bucket (i.e. which model bike would be an easy swap)?
 
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LOL Pete I've been shoving too much wire into headlight buckets for DECADES. It's an art form. Organization matters, get all the wires into the bucket but not connected. Start with the biggest connectors; mate and place around periphery of shell, bending and forming wires to lay flat. Watch routing so wires aren't tangled, you are aiming at building a "nest" with room in the middle for the headlight and bulb connection. The finned bulb is deeper, next time I open the shell I'll get rid of that black plastic bulb connection and use three separate wires with 90 spade connectors, the bulb' spades are quite wide, need to find the right spades and make the wires. I will probably do like grizzled and cut a hole for the Broview S7 bulb with it's braided copper heat dissipaters. I'm pretty sure that is a better bulb but really, what are the odds my XS650 is going on a longish night trip?
 
Gary, as you're probably aware, when you make an RLU jumper plug, you can simply remove the unused wires/crimps from the plug. A "special tool" eases this job. With all the wiring stuff you do, I'm surprised you don't have a set. They make dismantling any of the plug styles on a bike harness much easier .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Connector-W...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

When I jumper RLU plugs now, I don't use a matching plug unless I'm adding the 3rd wire for the Pamcopete charge light mod. If I'm just bypassing the RLU, only connecting 2 wires, I use a single, "wrap-around" jumper wire. I make them up using wire and crimps scrounged from junk harness plugs .....

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True Gary - I suspect there aren't too many folks doing long night time rides on these old gals.

5T - that is a slick solution - thanks!
 
Does the RLU perform any other operations apart from the headlight? If I just jumper those two wires but leave the RLU in place and connected will there be any remaining benefits like brake light warning?
 
Varies by year? but in short no advantage. I removed,shrink wrapped with the screws, labeled, and put it in my XS650 misc elec. parts bin.
 
My H4 shell got hazy on the inside so I got an H6024 halogen sealed beam from Walmart for $8.88. It might be something to include in the tests if the stock headlight you've been using is an original.
 
I might have to try some of these not to expensive LED options. I was aware of the very expensive options but not these lesser ones.
Good work gggGary
Leo
 
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