Mailmans XS2 , the rebuild.......again

I never doubted that you were recalling what you’ve read correctly. But I feel comfortable using them. I could see how they could be damaged upon removal, if someone were to grab one with a needle nose pliers and twist them out ( for example ) you could bend or twist them and they would be failure prone. But I was careful in removing them and they looked good, so I’m willing to reuse them.
I'm sure you'll be fine. Every manual I have read always says to replace. When I learning how to rebuild engines I was always told to use new. Old habits die hard.
 
I just reinstalled my old ones without paying attention to orientation. They’ve only been in there 57,000 miles. Has anyone reading this ever heard of a failure?

I use STP oil treatment as assembly lube because somebody taught me that many years ago. Some stuff, we just don’t forget and we carry on that way.
 
When we used to build the SBC for drag racing we used full floating rods. Circlips were a recipe for disaster. I always used the spiral lock retaining ring.:thumbsup:
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When we used to build the SBC for drag racing we used full floating rods. Circlips were a recipe for disaster. I always used the spiral lock retaining ring.:thumbsup:
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That’s a new one on me, never seen that before. Most of my mechanical background comes from the years I worked as a welder in a truck fleet garage. I used to do some light mechanical work around there, but I absorbed a lot from the real mechanics. Keep in mind that was no high performance shop, it was mostly International Trucks with Cummins diesels in them! :laugh2:
 

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I just reinstalled my old ones without paying attention to orientation. They’ve only been in there 57,000 miles. Has anyone reading this ever heard of a failure?
The vertical gap orientation is an old hot rodders superstition trick. The theory goes that somewhere around a gazillion rpm a resonance in the clip will cause it to compress if it's sidways and fall out.
Had an old Superhawk that I tore apart numerous times hotrodding it. Never paid attention to clip orientation and I regularly took that thing out past 14,000 rpm.
Anecdotal maybe, but I've never worried about it.
Edit: Oh.... and I reused clips on it too... :sneaky:
 
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If some meatball mechanic was heavy handed taking them out or dropped it and stood on it, then fixed it and reused....!!!!!!

when the clip parts way and damage reviewed, No meatball mechanic is going to admit their mistake............. the explanation of resonance and clip positioning sounds a lot more technical than, ..........."Oh yea i dropped that one and stood on it. It was ok after i re-straightened it"
 
Yup, had to bore a few cylinders that experienced dislodged wrispin circlips.
Racing stuff, never saw it on street stuff.
Told 'em to try using the Teflon buttons, often included in racing piston kits...

Hey Steve,
It’s good to see you around again buddy! I was beginning to think those wild hogs around your place got you!
 
Amazing I've read many times here people quote Yamaha's manuals on how to do things like it's gospel. Yet something as crucial as the wrist pin circlip is ignored.
Well I'll respond Greg. I don't treat the Yamaha manual like gospel. My buildup thread's torque specs are most decidedly not what the manual recommends. I think their note to not reuse 'em is more cya for mechs that ham fist 'em out. They're spring steel. Squeezing 'em down to remove or install is the same either way. If they'll stand the squeez to install, they'll stand it to remove. Just speaking for myself, I've lost track of the number of engines I've built that use a floating wrist pin with clips. I can recall exactly how many new clips I've bought... zero. I can also recall how many engines I've had damaged or have come apart on me... zero.
 
Hey Steve,
It’s good to see you around again buddy! I was beginning to think those wild hogs around your place got you!

Hey, Bob!
Yup, still breathin'.
Got the hogs scared off.
Now dealin' with a pack of racoons, and some coyote howlin' thats gettin' a little too close.

And Vegas stuff... :D
 
When I was racing karts with blueprinted Yamaha KT-100 engines, we always used new circlips and oriented them properly; we did this in response to many years of collected evidence of engine failure which could be traced to reused/disoriented circlips. The engines were run up to 15,500 rpm (sustained, at times) and were rebuilt after 6 hours on the track. I bought the clips in bulk.
 
I currently run these in my big bore 1230EFE...much easier when putting the top end together if nothing else :D

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As for standard clips I always have the gap away from the piston cut out....I once had a clip work loose and was amazed how much damage it caused.It was on a two stroke mind you.
 
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